I tried to search your previous posts to find out some particulars, but got an error msg. Care to provide some chimney details? Then I can take a wild guess as to weather you might need a damper. It will probably be wrong but I'd enjoy trying nonetheless.Chrism said:when i install my Isle Royale should i install one ??
I put one in my new liner setup just because I had it. I might need it one day, but don't use it now.shawneyboy said:I am of the believe that it is better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Huh. I figured that no matter which end you cut the air flow from, the net result would be the same.pen said:using a damper when unnecessary disrupts the balance of air feeding the fire and can make the burn less efficient.
Woody Stover said:I always thought that the flue damper wouldn't hold any heat in, since the same amount of air is moving through the stove...
So on the 30, there's no secondary air control? I don't know how that would affect my Keystone; I'm not sure if there's a separate air supply to the combustor or if it just pulls its air off the air wash. Now on the Dutchwest, there's a separate adjustable air inlet for the combustor. I never did figure out if it made much difference...combustor was half shot and I never had dry wood. I may play with it again after I rebuild the stove. And I will have dry wood from here on out.pen said:Woody Stover said:I always thought that the flue damper wouldn't hold any heat in, since the same amount of air is moving through the stove...
If I were to start closing down the pipe damper the whole stove would slow down, to counteract I would have to open up the primary air. In opening up the primary air I would be reducing the pull the secondaries feel, they would go out and all I would have is some flames off of the logs in the front of the stove sort of like what my pre-epa stove used to do.
snowleopard said:Some factors to keep in mind as you evaluate the usefulness of my advice: a) I'm scrupulous about doing a daily (at least) run-up fire, and b) I have prior experience with pre-EPA stoves and pipe dampers, so for me, a stove just seemed all wrong without one. I had it installed as a just-in-case, and thought I would rarely use it. I use it daily.
Installed it as the first section above the stove so that it would get maximum heat, and get less dirty.
I leave it open when I'm bringing the stove up to temps (400-500), and then will shut it down judiciously. Sometimes I'll leave the primary air intake more open, and shut down the damper, and I shut both at bedtime. It's my belief that more heat comes off the stove that way, and that I can hold a fire longer. get plenty of secondary burn with it. Have come down in the night to check on the stove and stayed to watch dancing sheets of blue flame, so I believe it's burning efficiently.
I have a straight shot pipe and good draft. I'm not sure it would be a good idea under other circumstances. It proved itself very useful in a severe windstorm we had a few months ago--40-50 mph winds whipping overhead, flame guttering in the stove from the pull until I shut the damper.
Also, I believe my Excel damper has more open cut-outs in it than the one in the picture above.
snowleopard said:Right you are, Pen, about the manufacturer's recommendation. I may indeed have an overdraft. I know that when the stovepipe was installed, before it was sealed off, it pulled in buckets of cold air downstairs. I've never measured the draft, and don't know if the installers did, but I've never had a problem with insufficent draft.
woodchip said:My thought about chimney dampers is that the primary air supply is where the oxygen for combustion is controlled in newer stoves.
If you have a damper on the flue, there is always the risk you could leave that shut accidentally when opening the door for reloading.
Should you do this, Oxygen will go into the firebox from the room, and an increase in combustion within the firebox from the remaining fuel.
Should that take place, where are the smoke and flames going to go, if the chimney is closed off by a damper?
Just considering a worst case scenario.........
xjcamaro said:I too have thought about installing a damper in my stove pipe. I have a EPA exempt stove without any intake air control, my chimney is straight up and out, Ive never had a problem with not getting a draft. There is a damper installed in the stove but it can only close about 60%. What i notice is that sometimes i get a powerful draft, so much that the flames look like they are getting sucked towards the back of the stove because the air intake is right above the door and airwashes the glass then moves toward the back of the stove. So when i get some fires like that they are fast and hot. This is my first year burning so im still learning and i pull apart my chimney every month and clean it. I also read on the website where i got my stove from, a review of the stove by another buyer, in that reveiw they stated that they installed a second damper about 15" above the factory one. (The factory one is in the stove pipe adapter on top of the stove) And it gave them more control and longer burns. So im really thinking about putting one in for next year. Any thoughts.
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