Which pellet stove to stay away from?

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Thechap

Member
Jan 20, 2008
41
South Eastern Pennsylvania
I don't know much about pellet stoves but have been wanting one for a while. I'm looking at something that can heat a 2000 square foot home. I know I'm not giving much info. I'm just needing to know which brands to stay away from. Thanks!
 
Not sure which ones to stay away from…I run a Harman P61a in my 1500sq ft house and am very happy with it
 
Most stoves will burn any pellet, but the amount of heat, the amount of ash, and how frequently you need to clean the stove depends on the pellet. I have an old Whitfield Quest. It prefers High quality pellets. When I use high quality pellets I can burn more than a ton of pellets before it has to be clean. I usually clean the stove after each ton, but even then the ash pan is less than half full. A lower quality pellet would require more frequent cleaning.

Some stoves are more forgiving with pellet quality.

I know none of the answers given helped. Instead I would look for a dealer that you like that can service the stove then ask what pellets they would recommend.

Rick
 
Big fan of Quads..
 
My preference is not a drop-pellet stove. I had one (Hastings) and it took more work to maintain than my bottom feeder stoves. At the same time, it was a solid stove, heated well and if I hadn't fallen into a heck of a deal with my P43, I might still have it. If I were to get a bottom feeder again, then I wouldn't hesitate to get another Hastings.

However, my preferences do not help you a bit. I would say in general, the cheaper the stove, the less you should expect from it. That being said, many people have had cheap stoves going for years, without any problems. That may be due to their being willing to perform maintenance at a higher level than the average person, or maybe it is the other way around and a lot of people that buy a cheap stove don't do any maintenance (which is a must for any stove).

It is more about figuring out your needs; ash pan size, hopper size (which directly affect how long it can run), Involvement it takes for general cleaning, siting of the stove, ie not just physical size of stove but clearance to combustibles - do you have room for a huge P68 that takes 24" clearances on 3 sides (I exaggerate I have no idea what the clearance is for a P68).

Then once figuring out your needs, you can narrow the stoves down to what will work for your situation.
 
I just wanted some opinions on my figuring. I think I'm going to go ahead and purchase a PelPro PP150 pellet stove. It's going to replace a Harman Mark 111 coal stove that I plan on removing. I just need a little advice on the exhaust pipe. Coming off the stove I wanted to switch from the three inch to the four inch T with a cleanout. I want to finish it all in four inch pipe. In the photos you can see the coal stove pipe. From it's location I would have to use two 45 degree pipes to go about the coal stove and into the ceiling pipe which is 6 inch. I didn't want to move the pellet stove forward much because I need six inches of non flammable items. I also would need a four to six inch pipe (reducer?) for the pellet stove pipe.

I won't need a fresh air intake. I emailed the company and asked if it was needed. The said no with the exception if it was being installed in a mobile home. My home was built and the 40s and is draft proof.

Thanks everyone for the help!

IMG_7303.jpg IMG_7304.jpg IMG_7305.jpg IMG_7306.jpg
 
I think you should be fine with two 45* elbows. I've had to do some interesting things with my P43 exhaust to get it to the original stoves ehaut opening, but it's better than cutting another hole in my wall.

My 1960's house is nothing but drafts - and that is after the extensive work I've put into it the10 years I've been here. However, just be aware that the tighter your house is, the more the stove may struggle to breathe. But, you can always put an OAK in later if needed.
 
In order to get my stove pipe into the centre of the stove
I put a clean-out tee tipped at 45 a short straight pipe to a 45
then straight up to the class A 6 in. chimney last piece of
chimney being adjustable to get proper length and fit.
Hope this makes cents. Only photo I have

DSCF1045.JPG
 
I think you should be fine with two 45* elbows. I've had to do some interesting things with my P43 exhaust to get it to the original stoves ehaut opening, but it's better than cutting another hole in my wall.

My 1960's house is nothing but drafts - and that is after the extensive work I've put into it the10 years I've been here. However, just be aware that the tighter your house is, the more the stove may struggle to breathe. But, you can always put an OAK in later if needed.
I have no idea why I said my house is draft proof which isn't. I won't cut another hole for the exhaust either. Thanks!
 
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