Why does the manual say don't use a damper?

[bayshorecs]

I am almost ready to install my Century FW300011 stove from Menards. The manual states that the stove should not be used with a damper. If a damper is installed, it says to remove it or secure it in the fully open position.

Why?

 

[fossil]

Because the testing that lead to the EPA certification of the stove was conducted without a stovepipe damper...and you don't need one. Rick

 

[bayshorecs]

Would it not be handy to have to control the burn or is the inlet air slider good enough for that? I was also worried when the stove is not in use.

Granted, it was been 15 years since I made a fire indoors and that was using a standard fireplace.

 

[fossil]

I burn two steel woodstoves, one of them being a smaller version of yours, and I have no stovepipe damper on either installation, nor do I see a need for them. Some folks seem to really like having them, I just think it'd make sweeping the chimney/stovepipe more difficult than it needs to be, and would do nothing for the performance of the stove. Rick

 

[linckeil]

i will be installing my chimney within the next 2 weeks. i could either get the stovepipe adapter (about 20 bucks) or the damper (about 50 bucks). i needed one or the other. i went for the damper. if i don't end up needing it, it'll just stay in the wide open position. for the extra 30 bucks i figured why not just have it?

 

[moshiersr]

I've got basically the same stove, mine is a FW300010, you definitely don't need the damper.. The primary air control is all you need...

Steve

 

[InTheRockies]

Another century owner weighing in here. I agree, your stove won't need a damper. My stove is smaller than yours but slightly larger than Rick's. I've been very impressed with it's performance. I will admit that I was nervous about downsizing from an almost 4 cf firebox in the old smoke dragon to a 2 cf firebox in the new stove, but the new stove is really doing a great job of heating my small house (1200 cf). When starting a new fire, the new stove warms up and starts casting heat off more quickly than the old stove. Now that I'm burning 24/7, I'm finding that the new stove does a consistently better job at overnight burns, retaining a good bed of coals (the old stove was temperamental when dampering down for overnight burns). I think you'll be happy with the century. Good luck on the install.

 

[bayshorecs]

I will have around 18-19' of chimney that has 2 90*s. The manual says 15' min chimney height.

I guess i will just have to wait and see how it goes.

 

[bokehman]

Air entering the stove for secondary combustion is a fixed amount based on the design of the stove. It is not user controllable and relies on an undampered stovepipe of the correct length to work properly. If you uses a damper to limit draft the secondary combustion won't work properly and you will waste wood and have a flue full of creosote. If you want to control your stove do so with the primary. If you still make too much heat use less wood or load with large pieces for less surface area.