Wood stove doesn't work like it used to: Replaced clay flue tile with stainless 6" steel liner

[roscoe1958]

You therefore have a draft change, but may also have something wrong with the flue itself or it's installation, which is why a camera sent down the chimney would be extremely useful in resolving the issue. Additionally has a draft measurement been performed if not this should be done.

What is a draft measurement?

 

[roscoe1958]

I question which liner was installed, did you get a detailed invoice showing what liner was used? For all we know it could be singlewall black pipe that was screwed together.

Stainless steel pipe that was screwed together. Installed by a Mennonite.

 

[bholler]

I think I understand what you are describing.
When I take out the 6" stove pipe from the stove you can see a steel plate.
I have had it out to check it and it is approximately 1/4" thick x 24" x 14".
I just doublechecked on an old Stove diagram and we are talking about the same thing.
There is nothing wrong with it.
I appreciate your comments and thought we had something there for a few minutes.
So I thank you.

It is easy for some to blame my wood and not believe my mc. I can live with that.
However I repeat that the only thing that has changed is the new steel liner and chimney cap.

Its possible the increased draft of the 6" liner is causing the problems. Do you have a pipe damper?

 

[roscoe1958]

But black pipe vs single wall liner would not change much in draft because the cool down (in a masonry chimney) would be about the same.

OP, you are sure there is no debris blocking the flow on top of your baffle?

I second the notion that draft has changed because of the chimney work. If you have a sooteater, I'd run that up as it'll tell you if there is a blockage in the pipe (without a camera).
Either that or debris on the baffle plate. Or the cap is not good for your situation.

I would not be very concerned about flue temps at the end of a burn cycle (during coaling). Not much creosote produced then.

I think that it may be the cap.
As I have said the cap has a 2-3 inch band running around the middle. Which I think restricts the draft.
My old chimney cap had a roof with 4 meshed open sides (like a pavilion) and 4 legs that held it in place in the flue.
When I look on the internet I don' see any viable options.

 

[roscoe1958]

Its possible the increased draft of the 6" liner is causing the problems. Do you have a pipe damper?

Yes I have a pipe damper.
I am thinking of adding a 1' or 2' extension to the chimney pipe on the roof to see if it improves.

 

[stoveliker]

I could be wrong about this but didn't I read on this site that you can damage certain liners with a sooteater.

I think it came from a member who cleans chimneys.

I am not aware of that. Of course poor quality pipe can be damaged more easily. But you might not want to have that pipe anyway.

 

[bholler]

Stainless steel pipe that was screwed together. Installed by a Mennonite.

It should have been rivets not screws

 

[stoveliker]

I think that it may be the cap.
As I have said the cap has a 2-3 inch band running around the middle. Which I think restricts the draft.
My old chimney cap had a roof with 4 meshed open sides (like a pavilion) and 4 legs that held it in place in the flue.
When I look on the internet I don' see any viable options.

I think you may have too much draft - blowing most of the heat thru the pipe up out of your home.

 

[bholler]

Yes I have a pipe damper.
I am thinking of adding a 1' or 2' extension to the chimney pipe on the roof to see if it improves.

How has the liner install changed your pipe and stove top temps?

 

[bholler]

I think you may have too much draft - blowing most of the heat thru the pipe up out of your home.

That is my thought as well

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

I think that it may be the cap.
As I have said the cap has a 2-3 inch band running around the middle. Which I think restricts the draft.
My old chimney cap had a roof with 4 meshed open sides (like a pavilion) and 4 legs that held it in place in the flue.

That band is from the factory it is to prevent birds and rodents from entering the chimney, I suggest you not remove it.

 

[bholler]

I could be wrong about this but didn't I read on this site that you can damage certain liners with a sooteater.

I think it came from a member who cleans chimneys.

The only liners I don't like to use rotary cleaners in are the 2ply smooth wall ones. The op has rigid liner it won't be hurt

 

[bholler]

That band is from the factory it is to prevent birds and rodents from entering the chimney, I suggest you not remove it.

Most of the time bands are to minimize the effect of wind. Screen is used to keep animals out

 

[moresnow]

That wood does really look dry! Still worth a check. Worth checking the entire vent from collar to termination. Who knows. Is the connector pipe running up hill a bit in any horizontal piece? Not sure what your configuration is? Pics may help with suggestions here. Did the connector pipe get changed out? Spitballing
I had a Century stove that really needed a key damper to retain heat in the stove instead of dispensing of it (quickly!) up the pipe. I wonder if this might be something to try? It's cheap and simple to install. Your new liner may be pulling harder and smoking through your load a bit quick. Slowing the burn rate and keeping some heat in the stove may be worth a try. Or do you have a damper already?

 

[bholler]

Yes I have a pipe damper.
I am thinking of adding a 1' or 2' extension to the chimney pipe on the roof to see if it improves.

Is the bottom of the liner sealed up properly?

 

[mellow]

How is the thimble/crock setup? Got any pics of that?

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

Most of the time bands are to minimize the effect of wind. Screen is used to keep animals out

I have no screen, just the band and had been told by the dealer it was to prevent birds & stuff. Live and learn, as often the case wrong info from dealer, it makes me wonder sometimes !

 

[roscoe1958]

That band is from the factory it is to prevent birds and rodents from entering the chimney, I suggest you not remove it.

I would like to find a chimney cap that has wire mesh instead of the band. I believe that the band may be part of the problem and mesh will keep out the animals.

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

I would like to find a chimney cap that has wire mesh instead of the band. I believe that the band may be part of the problem and mesh will keep out the animals.

I would like to find a chimney cap that has wire mesh instead of the band. I believe that the band may be part of the problem and mesh will keep out the animals.

As I have a Selkirk Ultimate One 6 inch insulated chimney I just found this info on their website :
• Part of the chimney system roof assembly, the Round Top is designed with a dome to exclude rain and leaves and a lower skirt to deflect wind for proper chimney draft. I assume that this applies to any cap from any manufacturer.
From that info supplied by the manufacturer personally I can only deem it unwise to remove that band. My neighbor purchased a piece of wire mesh with 1 inch squares in it which he cut to fit and placed it around his chimney cap which I believe is a Security Chimney brand.

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

The only liners I don't like to use rotary cleaners in are the 2ply smooth wall ones. The op has rigid liner it won't be hurt

Any brand example ?

 

[bholler]

Any brand example ?

There are many brands. Any of the light wall smooth liners that are 2 ply

 

[kennyp2339]

I think you may have too much draft - blowing most of the heat thru the pipe up out of your home.

Been there and done that, lived through that experience w/ (2) stoves. I had a US2500 in my upstairs living room, it was to much stove for my house, moved it to the basement and started getting excessive coaling and it didnt feel like it was heating as well. I thought I was losing my mind, checked my wood, was 18-20%, thought the meter was broken, checked my cap thinking it was restrictive, finally bought a pipe damper and installed it, alas my coaling diminished a lot, more heat to, then after being satisfied and seeing how worn my stove was I bought a different brand, no pipe damper again, started getting whacky burns, this time around I used a meter to check my draft, found out that I was 4x higher in draft then what the stove manual said, installed (2) pipe dampers and living the life of high heat, 85 - 90 deg in the basement, 72 upstairs... cat looks like road kill at the bottom of the basement steps from the heat..lesson learned.

 

[bholler]

As I have a Selkirk Ultimate One 6 inch insulated chimney I just found this info on their website :
• Part of the chimney system roof assembly, the Round Top is designed with a dome to exclude rain and leaves and a lower skirt to deflect wind for proper chimney draft. I assume that this applies to any cap from any manufacturer.
From that info supplied by the manufacturer personally I can only deem it unwise to remove that band. My neighbor purchased a piece of wire mesh with 1 inch squares in it which he cut to fit and placed it around his chimney cap which I believe is a Security Chimney brand.

There are many caps available without wind bands. Good manufacturers offer several different options for different applications

 

[roscoe1958]

I think you may have too much draft - blowing most of the heat thru the pipe up out of your home.

Too much draft? I originally had a 6x6 clay flue tile and now I have a 6" round pipe. Does that equate to more draft?

 

[roscoe1958]

There are many caps available without wind bands. Good manufacturers offer several different options for different applications

I am looking at a 6" Dura Plus Chimney cap 6DP-VC which only has mesh. I do think that my draft has been restricted by the band on the new cap not increased. Has anyone have any recommendations?
Thank you