Concrete walls and floors can soak up damn near every last Btu of energy radiated from your stove. If that stove has a very high convective factor, such as iron-clad steel stoves with a convective jacket, then it's going to behave much better in a basement. But if it's just brick on a single wall steel or iron jacket, you're probably just experiencing the enormous heat sink we call "earth".
So, as @hilly said, "is the basement insulated"?
Magnehelic, pick 'em up used on ebay. Or any other gauge with graduations that'll let you see 0.01" WC increments. The magnehelic I use has a 0.25" WC full range, perfectly fine for seeing .05" nominal target.Where can I get a draft gauge or how can I go about measuring the draft?
You sure you're not mixing up threads stoveliker?Yes, correct and fair. But a previous stove here worked well. ( Though I'm not sure how the heat outputs compare.)
Too coarse, 2 psi is 55" WC. So even if it has 0.3% full range accuracy, that's still ±0.17" EOM. You're looking for something that can read .01" WC increments, or thereabouts.
You sure you're not mixing up threads stoveliker?