2021-2022 BK everything thread

[Highbeam]

I have found that I have to vacuum the face of my cat about 4 times per winter. I let the stove go totally cold, and then just use my household vacuum (as it's very little ash that i'm sucking up). I put the little bristle attachment on and move it gently over the surface of the cat - night and day results after I do this. The last year of my old cat - so let's say towards the end of it's useful (to me) life, I found that it was more clogged, and that simply vacuuming was no longer really tuning it up so well. Compressed air helped at this point, but what really helped was getting a new catalyst (for a number of reasons, and you're clearly not at that point with your new cat).

The other thing worth mentioning is that if you're burning small splits, in my experience you'll have some smoke during the cycle. Overwhelms the cat. Right now I'm working through a bunch of ugly, way to small splits of balsam fir, poplar and birch. And i'm smoking for hours, regardless of what setting i adjust to. Just too much surface area on fire at one time, and the cat cant' keep up. Just something else to consider.

Happy burning!

Great post missmac.

 

[Highbeam]

Had a non-cat hearthstone for 8 years. Now a bk ashford. Night and day difference in many ways. Firebox of ashford is a bit bigger. Burns are longer, more consistent temp and more efficient. The peaks and valleys of the non cat were the issue with me. Lots of heat for like 4 hours then 4 hours of so so- lots of coals if pushing it hard. I'd love to try a princess and see what it does here. Don't like the looks though.

No stove is perfect for Everyone or more importantly every house. Some just work better in some situations than others. And not just the house but the install can change things.

I too moved from a noncat stone stove to a BK and don’t regret it a bit.

 

[Tron]

I'd love to try a princess and see what it does here. Don't like the looks though.

Same here, that's why I chose the Chinook. But I doubt that the differences between Chinook/Ashford and the Princess are really big. I heard that the ash belly is bigger on the Princess, but besides that the thermal parameters are the same.

 

[Highbeam]

That ash belly though, almost makes up for the aesthetics of the old princess. It’s so nice.

 

[Tron]

That ash belly though, almost makes up for the aesthetics of the old princess. It’s so nice.

Degustibus non disputandum est.
Like the Romans used to say...

 

[Ashful]

But would you say it is fair to say that the BTU output of blaze king stoves that are controlled by a thermostat are not as effected by load density and wood species as many others? Of course burn time will be effected drastically but amount and density of fuel.

I have found in my experience heat output in the noncats I have used was controlled as much by wood species and how I loaded the stove as the air control. But with the bk the heat output doesn't change much with those factors. Just burn time

To some degree, yes, I think this is true. The BK thermostat is not perfect, so I think there's still some variability in BTU output with wood species/density, but the variability is much less than a stove with a fixed air control. I wouldn't think this is a cat/non-cat thing, though... more a thermostat vs. fixed air control thing.

Since I looked at and considered the Woodstocks, but ultimately decided their very radiant designs of the time were not practical in the big 53F stone box I call home, I always wonder about the installation space being considered any time a user has issues with their stove keeping up. This interest becomes even more piqued when comparing a very convective stove to a very radiant stove, as I learned when switching from massive but radiant Jotul Firelights to the somewhat smaller but more convective Ashfords, and learning just how much of the heat I was radiating from those old stoves was being sucked up by a big mass of exterior stonework. So, @sprawlnstall, what is your construction and insulation in the room where the stove is installed?

 

[Tron]

To some degree, yes, I think this is true. The BK thermostat is not perfect, so I think there's still some variability in BTU output with wood species/density, but the variability is much less than a stove with a fixed air control.

Additionally, there is some variability depending on the burn stage. When I'm left with coals, heat output drops nocticably, even though the previous set output can be reached again by turning it up. So technically the thermostat could keep the output up, but somehow doesn't.

Not a big deal, though.

 

[Ashful]

I too moved from a noncat stone stove to a BK and don’t regret it a bit.

Highbeam, forgive me if my memory is inaccurate, it has been awhile. But if I recall, were you not running a BK in the house and an Englander in the shop?

 

[begreen]

The other thing worth mentioning is that if you're burning small splits, in my experience you'll have some smoke during the cycle. Overwhelms the cat. Right now I'm working through a bunch of ugly, way to small splits of balsam fir, poplar and birch. And i'm smoking for hours, regardless of what setting i adjust to. Just too much surface area on fire at one time, and the cat cant' keep up. Just something else to consider.

I think more complete combustion is the reason why Woodstock went to a hybrid model and then others followed.

 

[MissMac]

I think more complete combustion is the reason why Woodstock went to a hybrid model and then others followed.

I wonder if BK could do something like that in their stoves? What would be the pros/cons?

 

[Highbeam]

Highbeam, forgive me if my memory is inaccurate, it has been awhile. But if I recall, were you not running a BK in the house and an Englander in the shop?

That is my current setup. 2012 BK in the house with well over 30 cords through it providing 100% of our constant heat over a 9 month burn season. Then the 2013 NC30 noncat in the large insulated shop providing intermittent heat so run at high output, max efficient output with a custom blower and convection deck. That NC30 really should be a wood furnace.

Prior to the BK I ran a hearthstone heritage noncat for 6-7 years and about 30 cords. It performed well but took a lot of loading and effort to stay warm. Looked great but was quickly wearing out.

Prior to that was a lopi freedom bay insert in a masonry fireplace that was removed. Inserts are horrible. Noisy blowers all the time, and the masonry had to go.

Of course growing up we had lopi, orli, and a country stove too. All noncats but my best friend's family had a princess insert from the late 80s (mostly same as current)and he loved it.

 

[Highbeam]

I wonder if BK could do something like that in their stoves? What would be the pros/cons?

They did at one time but went back to cat only.

 

[begreen]

I wonder if BK could do something like that in their stoves? What would be the pros/cons?

That's a good question for Chris. My guess is R&D time vs ROI. Maybe he and Tom have shared a few brews discussing this.

 

[ABMax24]

That's a good question for Chris. My guess is R&D time vs ROI. Maybe he and Tom have shared a few brews discussing this.

Why fix something that isn't broke. BK has every stove sold right now before it leaves the manufacturing facility. The product works and sells.

Makes sense to put your manpower toward making manufacturing more efficient and productive. BK isn't loosing sales because of the design, they are loosing sales because they can't get stoves in customers homes fast enough.

At the same time the test reports speak for themselves, the pure cat system works, it's just on startup (like all stoves) that it could use help. Maybe a secondary air setup that functions only when the bypass is open?

 

[begreen]

Yes, Woodstock was looking to expand production and sales from their stable of 3 stoves (Fireview, Palladian, and Keystone). They developed clean-burning hybrids in both soapstone and steel. Blaze King has a formula that works and expanded to making more visually appealing stoves with this formula and grew their insert market too. Both were expanding sales but with different marketing goals.

 

[sprawlnstall]

To some degree, yes, I think this is true. The BK thermostat is not perfect, so I think there's still some variability in BTU output with wood species/density, but the variability is much less than a stove with a fixed air control. I wouldn't think this is a cat/non-cat thing, though... more a thermostat vs. fixed air control thing.

Since I looked at and considered the Woodstocks, but ultimately decided their very radiant designs of the time were not practical in the big 53F stone box I call home, I always wonder about the installation space being considered any time a user has issues with their stove keeping up. This interest becomes even more piqued when comparing a very convective stove to a very radiant stove, as I learned when switching from massive but radiant Jotul Firelights to the somewhat smaller but more convective Ashfords, and learning just how much of the heat I was radiating from those old stoves was being sucked up by a big mass of exterior stonework. So, @sprawlnstall, what is your construction and insulation in the room where the stove is instalI

I have a two story house, my stove is located on the ground level in a large living room near the bottom of the stairs. 8 foot ceiling height. I'm guessing 2x6 walls with R21? insulation.

 

[Ashful]

"I have a two story house, my stove is located on the ground level in a large living room near the bottom of the stairs. 8 foot ceiling height. I'm guessing 2x6 walls with R21? insulation."

In that case, you shouldn't have the huge dependency on radiant vs. convective, that has plagued so many who are trying to heat masonry homes or heating from a basement. The Woodstock IS may be a solution for you.

But remember, no stove is magic. You're putting about 9000 Btu per pound of wood, perhaps ~1M Btu total, into a box and burning it down with efficiency averaging near 80% with some of the best stoves in the market (whether Woodstock IS or BK Princess). All the stove is doing is controlling the rate of release, and the method (radiation vs. convection) by which that heat is moved from the stove into your living space.

There are many other factors to consider, such as ease of use, ease of maintenance, warranty and support, etc. But when choosing between BK and Woodstock, you really can't go wrong, they're both excellent choices, by most accounts.

 

[sprawlnstall]

"I have a two story house, my stove is located on the ground level in a large living room near the bottom of the stairs. 8 foot ceiling height. I'm guessing 2x6 walls with R21? insulation."
In that case, you shouldn't have the huge dependency on radiant vs. convective, that has plagued so many who are trying to heat masonry homes or heating from a basement. The Woodstock IS may be a solution for you.

But remember, no stove is magic. You're putting about 9000 Btu per pound of wood, perhaps ~1M Btu total, into a box and burning it down with efficiency averaging near 80% with some of the best stoves in the market (whether Woodstock IS or BK Princess). All the stove is doing is controlling the rate of release, and the method (radiation vs. convection) by which that heat is moved from the stove into your living space.

There are many other factors to consider, such as ease of use, ease of maintenance, warranty and support, etc. But when choosing between BK and Woodstock, you really can't go wrong, they're both excellent choices, by most accounts.

If i had to guess they would both probably work similar. I need a replacement stove in my shop and will most likely get the big Drolet HT3000. It may take some effort but I plan to try it in the house for a season to see if I like it. The princess would make a fine shop stove if it works out.

 

[Tron]

You're putting about 9000 Btu per pound of wood, perhaps ~1M Btu total

At first I thought, wow, does one really get 111 lbs of wood into a 3 cu-ft space, but yes, given that dry oak is about 50lbs/cu-ft, that's probably realistic.

 

[Ashful]

At first I thought, wow, does one really get 111 lbs of wood into a 3 cu-ft space, but yes, given that dry oak is about 50lbs/cu-ft, that's probably realistic.

Pretty close, but I actually erred in my memory of oak density, using the number for green. My calculation was 63 lb/cu.ft on a Princess 32, at the cordwood packing density of 85/128 used by my state’s Dept of weights and measures.

 

[kennyp2339]

Round 5 or 6 of cold coming sometime during the night tonight, I didnt add any wood to the stove last night or this morning, scooped all the ashes out, got about 4 gallons worth, also lifted the smoke pipe and vacuumed behind the cat in case there was fly ash build up, made a new fire using 100% maple, cat is sitting proud at 1 o'clock for the past 6 hours, ready for the next wave of cold.

 

[pjohnson]

Temp probe Does anyone have a source of a 2 inch cat temp probe for a king. Seems everyone out of stock

 

[kennyp2339]

I’ve been running the princess pretty hard during the last 2 cold snaps, outside temps below zero at times, did a full ash clean out and vacuumed behind the cat 2 days ago, today is a ice storm day, temp right at 30deg with freezing rain, this is a pleasant surprise and relief knowing I can take a second season cat, run it hot and it will still glow great

 

[stoveliker]

So, after a full month of 24/7 burning, I've had 2 days with a cold stove. Ran the soot eater through, brushed the cat (not much other than some "hoar frost" on the edges of the metal, see pic; no blockages), checked behind the cat (nothing much), took out the ashes.

Interestingly, the cat seems to sag out of its space a little. Pushed it back. Seal still looked ok.

The cold Kenny mentioned above is coming in now; it was 51 this morning, and decreasing fast now to 22 overnight. Tomorrow 28, and tomorrow night 14.

Restarted the stove. Lit the kindling at 11.32. At 11.40 "tried" the cat for 30 secs, and it started glowing at one side. The other not. And as the probe was still quite far in the inactive zone, I opened the bypass again. At 11.48 engaged the cat as the probe was at the border of the active zone. Cat started glowing within 10 seconds.

 

[Highbeam]

So, after a full month of 24/7 burning, I've had 2 days with a cold stove. Ran the soot eater through, brushed the cat (not much other than some "hoar frost" on the edges of the metal, see pic; no blockages), checked behind the cat (nothing much), took out the ashes.

Interestingly, the cat seems to sag out of its space a little. Pushed it back. Seal still looked ok.

The cold Kenny mentioned above is coming in now; it was 51 this morning, and decreasing fast now to 22 overnight. Tomorrow 28, and tomorrow night 14.

Restarted the stove. Lit the kindling at 11.32. At 11.40 "tried" the cat for 30 secs, and it started glowing at one side. The other not. And as the probe was still quite far in the inactive zone, I opened the bypass again. At 11.48 engaged the cat as the probe was at the border of the active zone. Cat started glowing within 10 seconds.


View attachment 291468

Just shove it back in. I’ve had them try to walk out before too. Usually only a little ways though.