Englander "Madison" dirty glass

natas420 said:

For the glass, believe it or not, what works better than simple green, or 409, or windex, or vinegar, or Myers, or whatever: a utility knife razor blade (even an older but still sharp blade). It comes right off. Finish if needed ,with your favorite glass cleaner.

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This is what I do....when it's still hot. Then wipe with a wet paper towel.

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If you're burning green wood, you got smoke coming out that stack till that load gets up to temp and dries out. I didn't say he didn't have a draft issue, I did say that 1 yr old hard wood that could be thrown in an old unit, is not dry enough to burn in a newer stove. Can you burn green wood, sure, will it burn efficiently, or anywhere near as well as good 3+ yrs dry wood, no. He may very well have poor draft, but 1 yr old hardwood is not going to help the situation. You are correct in placement plays a part also. N-S loading will typically burn hotter than E-W configuration due to the air flow in one VS the other. You can burn almost anything in any stove, doesn't mean it will burn nearly as well, or clean, as good dry wood. We all been there, where we didn't have optimally dry wood, and had to do what we had to do. Been there, done that. I stay 3+ years ahead now, and actually burn less wood, getting optimal heat from it. Never worrying about whether it will burn good or not.
I do suggest checking your stack once a month or so when burning wet wood. Better safe than sorry.

Hogwildz said:

If you're burning green wood, you got smoke coming out that stack till that load gets up to temp and dries out. I didn't say he didn't have a draft issue, I did say that 1 yr old hard wood that could be thrown in an old unit, is not dry enough to burn in a newer stove. Can you burn green wood, sure, will it burn efficiently, or anywhere near as well as good 3+ yrs dry wood, no. He may very well have poor draft, but 1 yr old hardwood is not going to help the situation. You are correct in placement plays a part also. N-S loading will typically burn hotter than E-W configuration due to the air flow in one VS the other. You can burn almost anything in any stove, doesn't mean it will burn nearly as well, or clean, as good dry wood. We all been there, where we didn't have optimally dry wood, and had to do what we had to do. Been there, done that. I stay 3+ years ahead now, and actually burn less wood, getting optimal heat from it. Never worrying about whether it will burn good or not.
I do suggest checking your stack once a month or so when burning wet wood. Better safe than sorry.

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I do check my stack. So far so good. I've also read a few articles that state wood doesn't require more than a year to season if properly cut and stacked. I'll have to dig up the articles later. It explains that wood doesn't get any drier at 2 years than it does at 1 year.



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Here is something to remember , it may have already been mentioned.

The Air Wash on most stoves that keeps the glass clean is also the input air. If your wood is a little on the not seasoned more than 20% moisture content and you close down your input to a very low setting then you are also lowering your air wash over the glass that keeps it clean.

You can get a you moisture meter at Lowes. Check your wood moisture. If moisture is too much you can split the wood one more time can help.

wayne.nestor said:

I do check my stack. So far so good. I've also read a few articles that state wood doesn't require more than a year to season if properly cut and stacked. I'll have to dig up the articles later. It explains that wood doesn't get any drier at 2 years than it does at 1 year.



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Around here, wood must be cut, split and stacked to get it "seasoned" as quickly as possible. My "seasoned" is not what firewood sellers consider seasoned, but truly dry and ready wood. Folks out west where the air is dry, might be able to get wood ready to dry in a shorter time frame for obvious reasons. But here on the eastern side of the US, as least round these parts, oak, hickory and several other hard woods, are not going to dry in 1 year, nor two years. Can they be burnt after that time, sure, but with penalties such as inefficiency, lost heat output, creo build up etc. I have burned wood in all different stages going on 11 seasons now, and One year old oak burns like shat, 2 yr oak burns soso, 3 yr plus oak, burn excellent, and damn near light up the minute it hits the bed of coals. You can read anything you want on the internet, but how much is true, and how much is BS? All I know is what I have learned from actual hands on experience, in my neck of the woods, with my set up. That is all I can attest to. Being 3yrs+ ahead, makes no need for moisture meter, nor wondering if this pc will burn ok, or not, or that pc will burn. It all burns quite well. I invite you to take a real hands on test, split a round and try to get 3 equal size splits from the same round. Burn one after a year of sitting, another at two yrs, and another at three. You'll see exactly what I am talking about. Also after splitting, stacking and restacking wood for winter burn for many years now, one can feel the difference in weight alone while handling the splits, as to how dry or not dry they are. There is a big difference. The only way to season many hardwoods in a yr, is to split them into tiny thin splits. And that will not do at this household. No matter how large the split, in 3 years it will burn nicely. Do as you wish, my way is not the gospel, but I know what works for me. There is no urgent, rushed or questioning feeling when you are 3+ years ahead. You know all will burn great, and obtain the best output from each load.

The days of walking in to check the stove, only to see a smoldering mess, opening and blowing, and turning, re-positioning splits in attempts to get them to ignite better, are long over for me. As are the sweeping 2-3x a year or more, and large amounts of creo at each sweeping.

Another thing to consider is cleaning the chimney from the bottom up. That way you can have a taller chimney.