Stove installed!

kennyp2339 · Jul 22, 2018

Your best bet is to either get a true stove top thermometer or an IR gun that can read up to 1000-1200 deg, many cheaper ones stop at 800 deg.
Run the stove between 500 - 650 deg for optimum burn, now I don't know what you have done in the past, but you will need dry wood, wood that's measured under 20% moisture content on a freshly split face, anything over 20% is just going to give you a hassle, dirty up the chimney, cause low heat.
As I enter my 9th season of heating with wood, its becoming clearer and clearer to me that no matter the stove, your wood supply is prob the most important thing when heating with wood.

kennyp2339 · Jul 22, 2018

mcstatz5829 said:
And there is some white insulation in the stove. I assume it’s meant to be there?

Please open up and read your manual cover to cover, learn the stove from the bottom to the top.

Alpine1 · Jul 22, 2018

kennyp2339 said:
Please open up and read your manual cover to cover, learn the stove from the bottom to the top.

+ 1 on this. Perusing the owner ‘s manual is THE secret to make things work properly, from wood stoves to cars to space rockets.

mountain man 2 · Jul 22, 2018

kennyp2339 said:
Your best bet is to either get a true stove top thermometer or an IR gun that can read up to 1000-1200 deg, many cheaper ones stop at 800 deg.
Run the stove between 500 - 650 deg for optimum burn, now I don't know what you have done in the past, but you will need dry wood, wood that's measured under 20% moisture content on a freshly split face, anything over 20% is just going to give you a hassle, dirty up the chimney, cause low heat.
As I enter my 9th season of heating with wood, its becoming clearer and clearer to me that no matter the stove, your wood supply is prob the most important thing when heating with wood.

Not to get off the OPs subject but I still can't get the 20% or less thing thru many a peoples heads....sometimes I think they are just plain lazy.....

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

kennyp2339 said:
Please open up and read your manual cover to cover, learn the stove from the bottom to the top.

I did read the online copy a couple of times while the stove was in transit, but I failed to read the damn thing with the stove sitting right next to me ;sick

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

kennyp2339 said:
Since your not a "heights guy" familiarize yourself to how the stove comes apart while its still clean inside, that way you can do bottom up cleanings during the season and know what your doing because everything will be much dirtier.

Done, thanks. Once I got the baffle out I was able to see the inside of the stove pipe, and thus I had a second angle to try to remove it. So good news and bad news.

Good news: stove pipe is now out.
Bad news: I bent the hell out of it and it now needs replacement.
More bad news: I tore some of the insulation trying to get the baffle out.

Insulation should be easy to order.

I keep trying to be handy and not rely on paying people, but I usually end up with an expensive lesson or two.

begreen · Jul 22, 2018

mcstatz5829 said:
Quick side questions. With my tight tolerances, what’s the best way to monitor stove and flue temps?

And there is some white insulation in the stove. I assume it’s meant to be there?

It's going to be hard to measure temps with that installation without remote sensors. Several people use Auber's digital system to measure temps in this circumstance.

The white ceramic insulation is there to seal the sides of the floating stainless steel baffle/secondary box.

begreen · Jul 22, 2018

Can't tell what got bent. Is that just the chimney liner stove adapter? Is the rest of the liner flex liner?

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

begreen said:
Can't tell what got bent. Is that just the chimney liner stove adapter? Is the rest of the liner flex liner?

Nothing bent in last picture. Yes just the adapter. The rest is flex. Not as flexy as I’d have imagined. Even getting back there and pushing it around I have a hard time pushing up.

Now I see why I was advised to give it some relief from the top. Probably would have popped right out of done correctly.

I’m doing everything I can myself. I can probably even replace the adapter, but I don’t think there’s much hope of it going in right without getting on the roof, so I’ll probably get the chimney guys back out for that.

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

it’s 11.5” from the back of the stove to the front of the pipe.

It’s 13” from the back of the alcove to the front of the... smoke shelf I think?

Don’t think there’s much hope of a blower without major surgery. Hoping a fan blowing cold air on the stove plus the block plate will do the trick.

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

Anyway to tell if it’s an insulated liner?

begreen · Jul 22, 2018

Hmm, that doesn't look like a proper adapter. Is that just a short section of pipe? It's hard to see how is it connected to the flex liner. Is the coupler stainless or galvanized? FWIW, I don't see any sign of insulation on the liner.

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

begreen said:
Hmm, that doesn't look like a proper adapter. Is that just a short section of pipe? How is it connected to the flex liner? Is the coupler stainless or galvanized? FWIW, I don't see any sign of insulation on the liner.

They’re screwed together. Liner apparently comes with an insulation kit but I have no idea what to look for.

It’s a 24” section of pipe. Not sure what the difference is between that and the right adapter? Googling adaptors, they look just like short pipes to me!

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

Fridge magnet stuck quite easily to the adaptor. Not sure if that’s a foolproof test, but chances are stainless I think?

bholler · Jul 22, 2018

mcstatz5829 said:
Fridge magnet stuck quite easily to the adaptor. Not sure if that’s a foolproof test, but chances are stainless I think?

It is not a proper adapter. The liner would fit inside a proper adapter and be fastened with an attached band clamp. You could then attach a peice of painted stainless pipe to that or just make the connection with the adapter. The way it is done is not right. And the liner doesnt look to have any insulation which it should and is most likely required to be insulated by code.

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

So no block plate, wrong adaptor, liner not insulated. But we did get stainless, not galvanized. 1/4 ain’t bad, right?

begreen · Jul 22, 2018

mcstatz5829 said:
Fridge magnet stuck quite easily to the adaptor. Not sure if that’s a foolproof test, but chances are stainless I think?

Not sure but the picture looking up the inside of the coupler looks a bit like galvanized. Could just be the lighting. Wondering why they didn't bring the flex down to the stove and then an appliance adapter?

Well, at least the liner has the right end up. Maybe 1/5?

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

Inside is just dirty. It’s flat black like the outside.

So what’s my best bet? Tell the contractor to do it right or I call the fire marshal for an inspection?

They’re pretty big, I see their trucks a couple times a week, so I don’t think they’ll be a poofer.

bholler · Jul 22, 2018

mcstatz5829 said:
So no block plate, wrong adaptor, liner not insulated. But we did get stainless, not galvanized. 1/4 ain’t bad, right?

You got a stainless liner yes but the connector pipe they used probably isnt stainless

bholler · Jul 22, 2018

mcstatz5829 said:
Inside is just dirty. It’s flat black like the outside.

So what’s my best bet? Tell the contractor to do it right or I call the fire marshal for an inspection?

They’re pretty big, I see their trucks a couple times a week, so I don’t think they’ll be a poofer.

I would try to make them fix it.

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

Is that a proper adapter?

begreen · Jul 22, 2018

If they used black stove pipe to connect that is all wrong. The flex should have been long enough to reach the stove. Then this type of adapter is commonly used. Note that the liner is inserted into the adapter then tightened with a band clamp.
https://chimneylinerpro.com/chimney-liner-components/stainless-steel-chimney-liner-stove-adapter

begreen · Jul 22, 2018

bholler said:
I would try to make them fix it.

Wonder what they did up top now? This starting to sound more like a general contractor that is not too familiar with stove installation.

mcstatz5829 · Jul 22, 2018

begreen said:
Wonder what they did up top now? This starting to sound more like a general contractor that is not too familiar with stove installation.

They’re called Chimney and Masonry Outfitters. Not that it’s precisely the same thing as a stove installer, but the salesmen did say they do a lot of Blaze Kings, and they are listed as a dealer on Blaze King’s website.

The chimney does have a clay flue liner - does that invalidate the need for insulating the stainless flue liner, at least for fire code compliance?

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