15 degree elbow or offset?

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tjcole50

Minister of Fire
Oct 5, 2013
509
Ohio
[Hearth.com] 15 degree elbow or offset? [Hearth.com] 15 degree elbow or offset?

Let's get some distance. I would like to stick my freestanding stove out further what do you think? 15 degree elbow or offset box?
 
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30 deg elbow.
 
I have that same issue with mine, been struggling with it for a couple years so I finally broke down and got this 30 degree elbow, just got it in over the weekend, it looks well made, I will put my appliance connector into it and it comes crimped so that end will go into the insert and screwed down.

Best price I could find on one. $33 shipped, search for ebay #: 181266995895

[Hearth.com] 15 degree elbow or offset?
 
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I have that same issue with mine, been struggling with it for a couple years so I finally broke down and got this 30 degree elbow, just got it in over the weekend, it looks well made, I will put my appliance connector into it and it comes crimped so that end will go into the insert and screwed down.

Best price I could find on one. $33 shipped, search for ebay #: 181266995895

View attachment 123856
Basically my flex liner drops into it and it drops into my stove collar? So it's like an appliance adapter itself? Does it look like I have the room for it and how much distance onto hearth would I gain? Would it be as simple as pulling stove out a bit and connecting both ends
 
Appliance adapter goes into the elbow and screwed since the appliance adapter has the band for locking the flex down, you could screw the liner directly to the elbow but I wouldn't recommend it.

It should fit and give you at least 6-8 inches from the looks of that pic, using the appliance adapter will give you the extra length needed.
 
Clearance from front of liner to the lintel is 4 " my house is 58 degrees something has to be done how much distance would an offset box gain? They are more money but look like it would be just plug and play. I have a strong draw of 25ft on the nc30 so I think I can spare some with the offset
 
Offset boxes are a last resort, you are not at a last resort. Go ahead and spend the money on one but you will be pissed off with it as well within a day or two once you start getting smoke in the house during reloads, don't even think about cleaning it with one attached.
 
Don't think offset will work they are 2.5 " tall and top of stove collar to lintel is 2" so I'm going to order the 30 degree. Do you know the distance you gain as far as coming out onto the hearth with one?
 
Before you start adding an elbow why don't you just pull your stove out some so that your liner at least comes to the front edge of the hole you cut into your block off plate? In the photos it looks like you have close to an inch and a half in front of the liner before it touches the edge of the hole. That should get your liner closer to the lentil, which appears to be the limit you can reach regardless of any additional elbows you add, etc. If after getting the stove out to the point where the liner is touching the front edge of your cut out and you still have space between the liner and the lentil then you could make your hole even bigger at the front to slide the stove further out again. I can't picture how that elbow shown above will do much without enlarging your hole in the block off plate anyway. You already have your liner at a pretty good angle for connecting to the top of your stove. If you need/want your stove even further out into the room you might need to consider getting a rear venting stove, which is what I did when I put a free standing stove in front of my fireplace.

[Hearth.com] 15 degree elbow or offset?

[Hearth.com] 15 degree elbow or offset?

You can see in this photo that by using a T-connector you can get your stove completely outside your fireplace opening when you have the option to use a rear venting flue collar.

[Hearth.com] 15 degree elbow or offset?

In this photo you can see how the stove sits almost completely outside the fireplace opening to allow side loading.
 
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Good idea. Elbow was already purchased but may still come in handy here or elsewhere. But we are going to scoot forward and also do a full one piece block plate from the bottom on lintel straight back to perfectly aligned brick in the stair step pattern cannot pull the liner anymore forward. It will come out of stove. Would it be better to cut at the top of liner or down on top of stove for elbow?
 
Ok plan of attack. Going to pick up new sheet metal were gonna pull the stove out completely again. Pull liner up slightly and attach the elbow then the new block off will run entire span of lintel level straight back anchoring up into lintel itself and brick in back then the stove should stick out an addition 3-4 " plus my blower will have nothing restricting it In the fireplace opening the sheet metal should allow that air to just come out of there sailing lol
 
Guess I should think before posting. Easier to cut the top if at all. Since the appliance adapter slides into 30 degree elbow and all........ Also going to take scrap sheet metal and make some custom hood scoops for the nc-30 should be interesting
 
Before you start adding an elbow why don't you just pull your stove out some so that your liner at least comes to the front edge of the hole you cut into your block off plate? In the photos it looks like you have close to an inch and a half in front of the liner before it touches the edge of the hole. That should get your liner closer to the lentil, which appears to be the limit you can reach regardless of any additional elbows you add, etc. If after getting the stove out to the point where the liner is touching the front edge of your cut out and you still have space between the liner and the lentil then you could make your hole even bigger at the front to slide the stove further out again. I can't picture how that elbow shown above will do much without enlarging your hole in the block off plate anyway. You already have your liner at a pretty good angle for connecting to the top of your stove. If you need/want your stove even further out into the room you might need to consider getting a rear venting stove, which is what I did when I put a free standing stove in front of my fireplace.

View attachment 123860

View attachment 123861

You can see in this photo that by using a T-connector you can get your stove completely outside your fireplace opening when you have the option to use a rear venting flue collar.

View attachment 123862

In this photo you can see how the stove sits almost completely outside the fireplace opening to allow side loading.
If the elbow will give 4" forward and touch the lintel it should be good to go ... Looks as if the liner is headed in the general direction that once I pull up on it I should be able to easily commect to elbow then push back down to where the elbow touches lintel and goes into top of stove. I think what you are suggesting would be an aggressive bend down into the stove basically making my own degree angle
 
Yea hopefully elbow gets here quick I also just picked up some more sheet metal to make a plate to cover that whole open top and I really hope that it will improve the blower and gaining 4" out onto hearth I hope I can officially heat with thing
 
Good deal. Think it would be ok to stick appliance adapter into it and code clamp it then cement it? I am hoping I don't have to do any cutting really hope to pull liner up a touch connect it shove back down n be good
 
Your fine using sheet metal screws to attach the appliance connector to the elbow, then screw the elbow to the stove collar. Loosen up the band on the appliance connector so you have some play then attach the elbow to it then push the stove back in and angle the elbow into the stove collar, you might need to have someone tip the stove back a bit to get it in, it looks like it will be a tight fit, hopefully you won't have to trim the flex, but I wouldn't rule it out 100%.

Worst case you could push the flex into the elbow and screw it in if it is to tight of a fit with the appliance adapter, I have seen many pro's do it, I just like to use clamps for flex.
 
Ok another question heat shield on nc-30 is open on the bottom it seems it should be sealed basically the blower is trying to pick up and pull push the air my old insert was sealed and only moved that hot air ... Is there any kind of insulation I could cram into the opening of bottom of the heatshield it will be sitting against the fire box so needs to hold up... Something has to stop that bottom from being wide open
 
The housing of the motor has machined holes all over it... But if u feel bottom when blower is going it is trying to pull to much and the output is pathetic... I took the blower back off of stove and it blows for about 15ft but in stove it's sad
 
When I look back at your photos I keep wondering why you have the liner pushed to the back of the opening rather than near the front where you have the gap in the hole of you block off plate? The insulation you have stuffed up inside the opening prevents me from seeing what might be up above. Is there some part of the damper structure in the way still that is preventing your liner from sliding forward if you simply pull your stove out more? Is that the reason you think you need to add an additional elbow at the bottom? If there is nothing in the way up above it looks to me like you already have a pretty good angle at your stove with the way you have your liner bent into the appliance connector. Does your band clamp on the connector fit completely around the liner inside the connector or is all that stove cement in the photo attempting to complete a seal between the liner and the connector?
 
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