1st fire

[brakatak]

Hows this look? Used super cedar and some tiny splits/kindling.
Should i throw 1 biobrick in? Stove shop said to do a duraflame log but dont think those are good.

Any thing i need to pay attention to? Should i just this small fire go out and do bigger one tomorrow?


Also fire seems to slow down alot with door locked, But with Cracked open its much better

 

[Sprinter]

The stove and installation look really nice.

Do you have a good, well seasoned wood supply? Just wondering why you would need biobricks or manufactured logs. If it's just a matter of getting a break-in done, you can just use your regular wood and get the stove to about 600F for awhile. Maybe three of those.

Edit: I think I remember now that you were worried about the quality of your wood supply, is that right? Then, yes, you can supplement your wood with biobricks, pallet wood, North Idaho Energy Logs, etc., if available to you. You'll have to figure out a good proportion depending on your wood. Don't overdo the biobricks, though.

 

[brakatak]

Stove shop recommended duraflames for my first couple fires. I just figure a biobrick is better. I have decent semi seasoned for this year but already have a good supply ready for next year. Just trying to get ahead of the game. Figure this year is just to learn and accumulate.

 

[Sprinter]

Figure this year is just to learn and accumulate.

Good plan. On the break in fires, it's about temperature. Around 550 will cure the paint.

 

[brakatak]

Good plan. On the break in fires, it's about temperature. Around 550 will cure the paint.

Thanks. Dont have a thermometer yet. Just ordered one on amazon. Waiting for delivery.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

Thats a fine looking stove, congratulations. Once the break in fires are done you'll find your way into burning and what system works best for you. The only thing I have seen so far that looked like a red flag was "semi-seasoned" wood supply. How much do you really know about your wood? Do you know the MC? Do you know if it's hardwood or softwood? some of these things will let you know what kind of season you will have as well.

 

[Sprinter]

Brak, did we ever discuss moisture meters in past threads? I'm a big proponent of them so that you know exactly how dry your fuel is. That way, you're not guessing.

 

[Sons924]

I don't like duraflame logs. They are just for show and I don't think they would get your stove hot for a break in fire.

 

[Sprinter]

I don't like duraflame logs. They are just for show and I don't think they would get your stove hot for a break in fire.

It's somewhat controversial, but I think it's best to avoid any of the wax impregnated logs like Duraflames in a stove. There are better alternatives. Look for the products that are all compressed wood without chemicals or wax. And only use those as a supplement.

One exception would be that some folks use Duraflame and similar products in small chunks for starters. That would be similar to using SuperCedars for starting which is fine.

 

[seabert]

If fire dies out when closing the door your fire may not be hot enough to have a nice strong draft. Do a search on top down fires as well. I was having a struggle getting fires started. Once I did the top down method I could get a strong fire in under 10 minutes without using fire starters and close my door almost immediately. Once you have a good hot fire you should not need to open the door until you are ready to reload. With the top down method my wood burns more reliably, longer and more thoroughly.

 

[Sprinter]

If fire dies out when closing the door your fire may not be hot enough to have a nice strong draft. Do a search on top down fires as well. I was having a struggle getting fires started. Once I did the top down method I could get a strong fire in under 10 minutes without using fire starters and close my door almost immediately. Once you have a good hot fire you should not need to open the door until you are ready to reload. With the top down method my wood burns more reliably, longer and more thoroughly.

+1 on the top-down method. Especially for marginal draft situations (like I have). I do that, or a middle variation, routinely now.

 

[Oregon aloha]

Duraflame and similar products are used to not only help break in the stove, but there is a lot of moisture in the fire brick that needs to dry out before the stove will function well with wood. If you use wood right away on the break in you might not have a successful experience on your first couple of fires. This is the last thing a dealer wants for his new stove user.

 

[brakatak]

Brak, did we ever discuss moisture meters in past threads? I'm a big proponent of them so that you know exactly how dry your fuel is. That way, you're not guessing.

yeah, i ended up getting a MM. its very useful. most of what i have for this year is around 20- 25%. Not ideal but I'll try to make work. probably will have to supplement with some biobricks.

Going to fire her up again today. Its tough to gauge these starter fires without a thermometer. Not sure if I am burning hot enough. The glass got very hot, but the cast iron of the door and stove top didnt seem too hot.

 

[Sprinter]

yeah, i ended up getting a MM. its very useful. most of what i have for this year is around 20- 25%. Not ideal but I'll try to make work. probably will have to supplement with some biobricks.

Going to fire her up again today. Its tough to gauge these starter fires without a thermometer. Not sure if I am burning hot enough. The glass got very hot, but the cast iron of the door and stove top didnt seem too hot.

You shouldn't have to supplement much if at all with wood in the low 20's, although a biobrick or two wouldn't hurt. The 25% stuff isn't quite ideal but you should be fine with it if you keep flue temps above creosote levels. All last season my wood was like yours. I didn't supplement but had no creosote. Actually, I did try using pellets but that wasn't successful. You'll still want to check the flue a few times, though.

The first fire or two will be lame because of the firebrick, BTW.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

I agree, when you have some questionable wood, mix in some bricks or some known dry wood to make it work

 

[Sprinter]

Those BioBricks are a small size brick, aren't they, like a couple of pounds? That would make them very convenient as a light supplement when you need it. Much nicer than the big 8 lb logs for that purpose.