When we made the larger ash plug hole, we also modified the ash drawer and ash bucket. So, this was not as DRZ1050 noted. So, would the two or three of you with an issue send me a picture of your ash drawer and buckets please. Email them to me at [email protected] and I will see what happened. Also, include your serial number(s).
Thank you.
Chris
I'll send an email in the morning with pictures/ serial #.
I love being forced to eat crow over things like this. No sarcasm there, I really do. I love everything else about the stove so far, if the ash pan could be fixed, it'd be perfect
When we made the larger ash plug hole, we also modified the ash drawer and ash bucket. So, this was not as DRZ1050 noted. So, would the two or three of you with an issue send me a picture of your ash drawer and buckets please. Email them to me at [email protected] and I will see what happened. Also, include your serial number(s).
Thank you.
Chris
Pop the rear cover off after removing the screws with a #2 square drive bit and you see this throttle body. Air comes up from the sides and then drops down through the flapper into the primary intake manifold. The bimettalic spring is behind the throttle body so out of sight but when you adjust the knob you are just setting the preload on that bimettalic spring. The throttle blade reacts to the winding and unwinding of that spring in response to heat from the firebox.
The little black set screw on that collar by the spring washers is what limits the stat knob travel to less than 360 degrees.
The only somewhat sketchy thing is how the throttle blade is attached to the shaft. The welds look small and if they failed it would be real bad. I trust that this has never happened.
I still lubed the throttle blade shaft with a tough of gun oil on each side. Gotta keep things moving smoothly.
Never had one break yet in 35+ years and Highbeam, you are correct, resistance weld....smart guy!Nice breakdown of what you did. Will take note of this for future reference.
Though based on your pics, those welds look like resistance type of weld as opposed to flux core arc welds. An excellent looking weld made by resistance type should not show the excess molten metal since they don't functionally hold the joint together unlike on a flux core weld. The one on your pic (if it's indeed a resistance type of weld) looks satisfactory - even if the excess molten metal not cleaned off- for the function it performs.
Thanks again for the post.
Hello all,
I just installed a Chinook 30 after finally completing the new hardwood floors. This forum was the reason I went with a Blaze King. I used to have a Hearthstone Bari, which I liked well enough to heat the last (smaller) house, but the things I DID NOT like and wanted to avoid were:
Padawan:
I love the hearth pad and how it lines up with the wall. Looks perfect. I have hardwoods too and went with a steel ember pad like that. My local dealer just started carrying them.
Curious how that fan is working for you. It looks like an Ecofan. I have a smaller house (1000 sqft on the main level w/ stove, 400 sqft downstairs). I don't have the blower on my Sirocco since the dealer thought it would run me out of the house and I'd never end up using it. I'm going to see how this winter goes, but I might consider something like the Ecofan as an in-between option.
What has everyone else been experiencing for moving heat around on a really cold night? Are you closing off rooms or using fans?
I have a pretty challenging floor plan. I can do pretty good running the fan kit on the stove and a 110vac box fan on the floor down the hall pushing cool air along the floor out of the back bedrooms towards the stove.
I do have an eco-fan left over from my last stove. I have it sitting on our Ashford 30 directly above the cat. It'll get to spinning when the stove is cranking, but nothing like it did on my old EPA non-cat.
I wouldn't necessarily _buy_ an eco-fan to put on a BK, but since I had it already and its paid for I figure it can't hurt and it might help.
Poindexter, you are in Fairbanks, right? I've really enjoyed your posts and consider you my Litmus Test for what the worst case scenario I could face would be. And I mean that in the nicest possible way! We both have the same kind of woods to burn too. Do you ever use cottonwood or alder? As per usual, my property is covered with alder bushes and I always cut the dead fall up into lengths and use as kindling. They burn hot.
So, if the time comes to add a box fan, it sounds like folks here blow the cold air towards the stove rather than blow the hot air from the stove, yes?
I tied to add a ceiling fan upstairs, but I couldn't access the attic so I had to use one of those "old work" joist braces. I fought with the damn thing for a few hours, ate so much blown-in insulation that I'm concerned I now need more up there, eventually decided this was "man's work" and gave up. I hung a pretty Crystal chandelier up instead.
I find the blowers on my BK work quite well for getting air moving around the house, and I have a pretty difficult floor plan for heating. That said, before I had blowers I did use the "cold air toward stove along floor" technique. Since floors are usually less interrupted than ceilings, with doorway transoms and varying ceiling heights, this is often found to work best. Some have argued that cold air is more dense, and that improves the fan efficiency, but that effect should be fairly negligible (we're not talking drastically different "hot air" and "cold air" temps, here).So, if the time comes to add a box fan, it sounds like folks here blow the cold air towards the stove rather than blow the hot air from the stove, yes?
The easiest way to do this right is often an old work ceiling fan box: (broken link removed)I tied to add a ceiling fan upstairs, but I couldn't access the attic so I had to use one of those "old work" joist braces. I fought with the damn thing for a few hours, ate so much blown-in insulation that I'm concerned I now need more up there, eventually decided this was "man's work" and gave up. I hung a pretty Crystal chandelier up instead.
I find the blowers on my BK work quite well for getting air moving around the house, and I have a pretty difficult floor plan for heating. That said, before I had blowers I did use the "cold air toward stove along floor" technique. Since floors are usually less interrupted than ceilings, with doorway transoms and varying ceiling heights, this is often found to work best. Some have argued that cold air is more dense, and that improves the fan efficiency, but that effect should be fairly negligible (we're not talking drastically different "hot air" and "cold air" temps, here).
The easiest way to do this right is often an old work ceiling fan box: (broken link removed)
It's still best to get up in the attic, so you know where you're cutting your hole relative to joist and wiring placement, but most work can be done from below.
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