The shop I referred to above belongs to a buddy of mine! He still has a pile of newspaper and kindling by the stove. He's on his own! I gave up on subtle hints and suggestions. Now I just go for the bev's
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2019-20 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)
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The shop I referred to above belongs to a buddy of mine! He still has a pile of newspaper and kindling by the stove. He's on his own! I gave up on subtle hints and suggestions. Now I just go for the bev's
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
I know you got your answer already, but I feel the need to chime in also, I've been burning a princess for a while now and I've seem to finally figure out what she likes for optimal function, now everyones stoves will burn different due to different wood types, moisture, house size, heating envelope ect.. but this stove really like at least a 1/2 " of ash in the bottom, 1" is even better, I feel as though my burns settle into the prime zone when there's a good layer of ash as the base.
When loading the stove (doesn't matter if its just coals, half empty, or what ever)open by-pass, turn the t-stat air up to high and leave it on high for at least a minute, when doing a low burn (smolder box) let what's ever left get glowing again before opening the door, at that I always give it a minute, then crack the door open and let the door latch just rest on the latch piece on the stove body, while its resting I'll grab my splits and gloves, load the stove, shut the door and if the cat is within range close the by-pass but leave the air up. Let the load catch on fire, and be fully burning before dialing the air back down, so members will say its 5 min, others say 10 min, it all depends on the wood, sometimes it only takes me a minute or two, other times it will burn for 15min, its until your satisfied that the load has been baked by flames then turn the stove down for a smolder burn.
This is a new stove, the stove is more heavier duty then some people think, play with the air control and learn how it works, when using this stove there is not instant gratification like a tube stove (shutting air down and getting secondary's) If your playing around to find your "low burn" turn the air down some and wait a few hours, see if its holding the house to temp as is, adjust from there, learn your maximum minimum (the setting where the cat stalls) learn your normal dirty glass air setting, learn your candle wick flames setting. I found it easiest to learn by burning the stove with the t-stat set to 3 o'clock and used that as a base on going up or down, do a full burn at 3 o'clock just to see what it does with a full fire box, and make your adjustments from there. Of course start all fires with the air on high and let the cat go active and the burn set before dialing down.
Calentarse
Feeling the Heat
I cannot find the dimensions to order a new blaze king ashford catalyst gasket. I read it somewhere at one point and now just can't find the info anywhere. if anyone knows what to order, I'd appreciate it.
It’s the same cat as the princess. 2” thick, 10x4. You’ll want to order 3 feet. If you feel the need to remove your cat often then why not order 9 feet to have enough for three?
This is a factory new 0336 Cat. 10.65" x 2" x 4" With correct masking tape. Believe your stove takes the same Cat. Verify.
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Calentarse
Feeling the Heat
Got it, thanks guys!! Yes, I will probably order 6 or 9 feet. I don't remove it often but want to have it on hand in case I ever need to pull it out.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
30 inches of 1/16" x 2" interam. You'll pay more for the shipping than for the material itself, so just order 10 or 20 feet of it, and consider yourself set for the next several years.
Thought I'd add a experience I had yesterday. I have been thinking about cleaning the pipe/Cat etc. and adjusting my bypass tension. Soo. I did.
Also vacuumed the front and rear of the cat. While installed. Normal routine. I also decided to run into Wait Mart for a can of compressed air. Computer cleaning application. Turns out its a gas. Prior to re-lighting I gently blew out the Cat with this canned gas from the front. As clean as I thought vacuuming the Cat got it. I was wrong. This additional step was well worth the investment. The Cat is acting like new again. Incredible performance increase. Food for thought.
Also vacuumed the front and rear of the cat. While installed. Normal routine. I also decided to run into Wait Mart for a can of compressed air. Computer cleaning application. Turns out its a gas. Prior to re-lighting I gently blew out the Cat with this canned gas from the front. As clean as I thought vacuuming the Cat got it. I was wrong. This additional step was well worth the investment. The Cat is acting like new again. Incredible performance increase. Food for thought.
All air, even that canned air, is a gas.
Here’s the problem, the manufacturer prohibits the use of “compressed air” to clean the cat. Something about blowing off the catalyst. Vacuuming and brushing are okay. I’ve seen some manufacturers even endorse the canned air as above. Air pressure from those cans is lower than what a regular compressor can make but you can regulate the compressor air down to whatever pressure is safe. Then of course you have the nozzle and how velocity is increased with some nozzles. So is it velocity or pressure that blasts the plating off of the cat? I think both but no guidance is given. In a world of frequently clogging cats you would think that effective cleaning procedures would be encouraged.
BKVP
Minister of Fire
"world of frequently clogging cats"?? Few people have clogged cats. As part of regular maintenance, we encourage the service of the combustor as accumulation of fly ash is normal. I have posted here previously, on more than one occasion, cans of compressed air are fine to use SO LONG AS THE CAT IS ROOM TEMP.
If any of you out there is this forum are experiencing frequently clogging cats, please contact me at 509-522-2730 or email [email protected] or send me a PM.
If any of you out there is this forum are experiencing frequently clogging cats, please contact me at 509-522-2730 or email [email protected] or send me a PM.
What you call “normal accumulation of fly ash, I call clogging. Whatever, let’s deal with it. Seems like every day there’s another clogged cat. Just look at this thread. Member more snow is telling us how he unclogged his just today!
So canned (compressed) air is okay but compressed air from an air compressor is not?
My princess cat has never clogged but many well respected members on this forum have clogged their cats. We need to recognize this reality and learn how to deal with it. Happens on other brands too.
Yep. My roll is almost gone, time to get another one. I only use it for my Dutchwest now, instead of the in-laws' stoves too, so no big rush to order it.
I usually brush both faces, then blow through it several times as hard as I can, from both sides. I don't really trust them to put only air in the cans, but I'm probably wrong.
After several years of use by several different users, diesel foil and Dura-foil, I have seen peeling inside the cells to various degrees, so I'd assume that high-velocity air could get under the flakes and do more damage yet. I assume that even when I see some peeling, those flakes are still actively burning smoke if they stay in place.
NOTE TO SELF: DO NOT REMOVE CAT UNTIL IT STOPS GLOWING!
I don't consider a moderate amount of accumulation, "clogging." I'd reserve that term for when some cells are plugged to the point where air almost can't pass through. I wouldn't expect you to "clog" yours, on a short stack with low-ash wood. Others with tall stacks and higher draft apparently can stir up more ash in the box and it gets pulled into the cells
moresnow didn't say his cat was "clogged," merely that he was able to get more dust out of the cells by doing more than just vacuuming. I found the same thing to be true; If I brush and vacuum first, then blow through it manually, several times from both sides, I get a lot more dust out than brush and vacuum alone. He noticed a big increase in performance, so I assume he uncovered more catalyst surface. In light of that, it's hard to say how many people have given their cat the distilled vinegar/distilled water wash and attributed increased performance to that, when maybe all they needed to do was to get more catalyst uncovered by blowing out the cells gently in addition to dusting and vacuuming..? Also, when the catalyst starts peeling, it's going to catch a lot more ash, and clogging could be more of a problem.
Good point, 100% cat plug is rare. We are frequently seeing incidents of partial clogging to the point where unclogging is necessary or will result in significant improvements in performance. I think it’s worthwhile to know the safe limits of pressure for blowing a cat clear.
Lots of new stoves are adding cats, usually small celled steel cats, and I am guessing we will be seeing lots of new cat stove owners running into this.
Lots of new stoves are adding cats, usually small celled steel cats, and I am guessing we will be seeing lots of new cat stove owners running into this.
I had trouble with fly ash when I was running fuel under 12% MC. I think I had to use the soft bristle brush attachment on the wife's vacuum three times that winter.
Running 12-16% MC vacuuming off the face of the combustor is a thing I do every May as part of normal stove maintenance.
I think more than one user here has had trouble with fly ash because of tall stacks/ lots of draft and fixed that with a damper that is not in the manual of any current stove manufacturer.
If the stove output seems down/ low / out of whack to MC/weather/ throttle setting popping the flame shield to check the combustor face for fly ash -before- sweeping the stack can be a huge time saver.
Running 12-16% MC vacuuming off the face of the combustor is a thing I do every May as part of normal stove maintenance.
I think more than one user here has had trouble with fly ash because of tall stacks/ lots of draft and fixed that with a damper that is not in the manual of any current stove manufacturer.
If the stove output seems down/ low / out of whack to MC/weather/ throttle setting popping the flame shield to check the combustor face for fly ash -before- sweeping the stack can be a huge time saver.
A consideration for avoiding Cat plugging. On a fresh load/reload. While charring/burning in/setting up the new load so to speak. Instead of performing this portion of my start up routine on high I occasionally do it on a somewhat reduced (from high) stat setting. It seems to keep the super charged flames/air flow and potentially airborne fly ash in check/reduced to a degree. Mostly on soft wood or on a deep ash bed.
Shhh. I know. I am treading on thin ice mentioning this As its not exactly according to Hoyle in relation to our manuals. Food for thought. My opinion only as well! Carry on.
Shhh. I know. I am treading on thin ice mentioning this
As its not exactly according to Hoyle in relation to our manuals. Food for thought. My opinion only as well! Carry on.
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This is very important! 1/8” is most commonly stocked at hearth stores, it will not work! So if anyone is picking it up locally make certain it’s 1/16”.
Also keeps more of your wood in the stove, to burn after you close they bypass when you can get more heat out of it.
ratsrepus
Minister of Fire
Not to change the subject, but has anyone heard of spraying WD-40 on your door gasket to kept them soft? I stumbled on a you tube video promoting this. Back on track where is the best place to order cat gasket your all referring to
As suggested here.
Replacement Gasket Wrap ACIG-2
Firecat Combustors Replacement Gasket Wrap ACIG-2
www.firecatcombustors.com
Raoul
Member
New BK owner here.
I could use some tips for reloading on coals. Specifically avoiding smoking out the house.
I have an Ashford 25 insert. 25’ foot uninsulated liner.
My process is; ceiling fan off, blower off, air wide open and then open bypass. Go gather wood.
Crack the door and wait a moment. Slowly open and rake coals into some sort of pile.
At this point no smoke whatsoever in the house.
This is where I run into trouble. You cannot toss wood into this stove as their are some vertical clearance issues to be mindful of. Don’t want to damage anything etc. The door is quite wide and I start in the back hinge side to try and get everything stacked before the smoke rolls. Typically I am not fast enough. Or am left with something that’s not going to burn very long as my loading structure is poor.
Anyhow. The new wood starts to catch and smoke and it’s as if the air wash is blowing smoke to the front of the stove.
Once I get the door back to just cracked all is well. Unfortunately the main floor is full campfire mode.
I know next year I will cut all my wood shorter for N/S loading and make smaller splits.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I could use some tips for reloading on coals. Specifically avoiding smoking out the house.
I have an Ashford 25 insert. 25’ foot uninsulated liner.
My process is; ceiling fan off, blower off, air wide open and then open bypass. Go gather wood.
Crack the door and wait a moment. Slowly open and rake coals into some sort of pile.
At this point no smoke whatsoever in the house.
This is where I run into trouble. You cannot toss wood into this stove as their are some vertical clearance issues to be mindful of. Don’t want to damage anything etc. The door is quite wide and I start in the back hinge side to try and get everything stacked before the smoke rolls. Typically I am not fast enough. Or am left with something that’s not going to burn very long as my loading structure is poor.
Anyhow. The new wood starts to catch and smoke and it’s as if the air wash is blowing smoke to the front of the stove.
Once I get the door back to just cracked all is well. Unfortunately the main floor is full campfire mode.
I know next year I will cut all my wood shorter for N/S loading and make smaller splits.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Everybody's got 'em. I don't know if there's any variation in the compostion, but any I've gotten from any supplier has looked the same.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
That'd be unsurprising with a 10' flue, but it is surprising with a 25' one. Does it have a lot of bends?
Your experience may change as the weather gets colder.
Could also be a pressure problem. Next time you reload, open the nearest window an inch before you open the stove and see if the problem doesn't go away. If it does, you should probably look into getting some outside air in near the insert, or taking it a step further and getting HRV / ERV.
You could also simply crack the window when you reload, but I would worry about any stove being a CO hazard late in the burn under those conditions.
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Is it possible to recalibrate the hrv to compensate the loss of air in the house envelope and avoid installing the oak?
You should be able to do it with a recent production HRV, but that is pretty expensive air to be using for combustion. More frequent HRV filter changes or HRV filter cleanings, higher electricity bill. I don't see an advantage unless your drywall is already up and then it would still be disputable to me.
If I could economically install an HRV in my current house an OAK would be part of the install and my drywall went up 40 years ago.
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