2020/21 VC Owners thread

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
84,972
South Puget Sound, WA
This is the place for all things Vermont Castings, picking up from last season's thread here:
 

Slim51

New Member
Aug 30, 2020
7
New vineyard, ME
ill christen the post with another question... Im installing a new thermostat assembly for the primary air control level on a defiant encore 2190. It WILL NOT stay open, instead it springs back to closed when i let go of the handle. Anyone know what im doing wrong?? I really hope this stove is worth all the trouble its been so far before even using the thing lol
 

Diabel

Minister of Fire
Jan 11, 2008
2,868
Ottawa, ON
Hi all!
Hope you all had a decent summer given the circumstances.....
Lets put them wood through our temperamental units and share our ideas with new folks chiming in. Just had my second fire of the season this morning (it was miserable, 49 windy and raining). House is nice and toasty.
 
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arnermd

Member
May 16, 2014
14
CT
Hello All,

Wondering if anybody has a proven method for testing a bimetal thermostat in a Vermont castings model 1975 (2n1) that does not require stove teardown. In my stove getting to the thermostat requires removing the top and internal air passage castings (I have heard older models had a simple cap to expose the bimetal). I tried removing the thermostat handle and heating the shaft with a propane torch, no movement from the air inlet damper. Not sure that method would be effective as the bimetal is a huge fin, not sure I can pump enough heat into the shaft to heat the bimetal coil.

I would prefer to heat the coil directly, but I can't get to it without a partial teardown.....

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

Diabel

Minister of Fire
Jan 11, 2008
2,868
Ottawa, ON
Hello All,

Wondering if anybody has a proven method for testing a bimetal thermostat in a Vermont castings model 1975 (2n1) that does not require stove teardown. In my stove getting to the thermostat requires removing the top and internal air passage castings (I have heard older models had a simple cap to expose the bimetal). I tried removing the thermostat handle and heating the shaft with a propane torch, no movement from the air inlet damper. Not sure that method would be effective as the bimetal is a huge fin, not sure I can pump enough heat into the shaft to heat the bimetal coil.

I would prefer to heat the coil directly, but I can't get to it without a partial teardown.....

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I am not sure how the 1975 2in1 is put together. I would imagine the bimetal coil is somewhere past the cat. What is the purpose of your exercise?
 

arnermd

Member
May 16, 2014
14
CT
The 1975 only has one coil, it sits in the inlet air passage on the right side of the box. The shaft attached to the center of the coil is the inlet air control lever. There is no active air control for the cat.

Purpose is to determine if the coil is working as it should. I have had issues where the cat temp gets very hot sometimes, but not always. Primary burn is generally under control and not overheating. seems unlikely the issues is the bimetal but if I can check it easily and rule it out....
 

RonnBatt

New Member
Oct 13, 2020
1
Toronto, ON
Hi All... new potential VC owner here. I am looking at purchasing an INTREPID II and have found one with a base that I have never seen on a VC before. Instead of the normal 4 feet, this one has a full cast iron skirt, SEE PHOTOS. Does this look familiar to anyone? I can not find another photo of a VC with such a base? got any ideas of the model? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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ekf

New Member
Oct 19, 2020
1
Maine
Hello,

We recently purchased an antique house that came with a VC Encore 2550 that we think is from 1995/96 (jharkin's threads have been immensely helpful!), and aren't planning to replace the stove this winter.

The prior owners seemed to have not properly maintained the stove and we are replacing the cat and the refractory panel. We have not fired it up yet.

I was looking around today and noticed that the lower fireback had this small crack on it - photo attached - is this a big concern? Also, how can I determined how "warped" the firebacks are?

Thanks!
 

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Diabel

Minister of Fire
Jan 11, 2008
2,868
Ottawa, ON
Yes
You should replace the fireback as well. They are not that expensive.
 
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redman

Member
Jan 16, 2015
16
Long Island, NY
Good day everyone, looking for some help with encore flexburn 2040. Been burning for 5 yrs using inferno stove top meter. I just installed a condar flue gard probe today. I never received the cat probe that goes in back but I’ve read that the optimal reading is 1100. Does the same rule apply for this flue gard? I ask because 1100 is in the red on this condar and I don’t want to overheat. Any tips help, thank you
 

redman

Member
Jan 16, 2015
16
Long Island, NY
Good day everyone, looking for some help with encore flexburn 2040. Been burning for 5 yrs using inferno stove top meter. I just installed a condar flue gard probe today. I never received the cat probe that goes in back but I’ve read that the optimal reading is 1100. Does the same rule apply for this flue gard? I ask because 1100 is in the red on this condar and I don’t want to overheat. Any tips help, thank you
Forgot to mention the condar probe says optimal reading is 400-800
 

Woodsplitter67

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2017
1,450
Woolwich nj
Good day everyone, looking for some help with encore flexburn 2040. Been burning for 5 yrs using inferno stove top meter. I just installed a condar flue gard probe today. I never received the cat probe that goes in back but I’ve read that the optimal reading is 1100. Does the same rule apply for this flue gard? I ask because 1100 is in the red on this condar and I don’t want to overheat. Any tips help, thank you
1100 in the stove pipe is way to hot. thats a reading for the cat probe. You can use an alber at100 for a cat.prove and as far as a flu temp I go with 400 to 500
 

Reckless

Feeling the Heat
Jan 24, 2013
414
Orange county, NY
Back in rebuild mode.... found a bolt loose on the upper, went to tighten it and it snapped......... kinda glad I went rope over cement on my rebuild. Drilled and tapped to a larger bolt. Hope everyone is doing well!!
 

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Reckless

Feeling the Heat
Jan 24, 2013
414
Orange county, NY
Any opinions on the use of these SS bolts shown above.
 

mrd1995

Member
Feb 21, 2020
165
North East, Pa
Any opinions on the use of these SS bolts shown above.
We are in the middle of designing a hot form press that utilizes SS and one of the main concerns is that dissimilar metals expand and contract at different rates. If the stainless expands at a faster rate you main run the risk of cracking the female material, on the contrast if it expands slower it may loosen over time. We are using 300 series SS and over 24' we are expecting a total of 3" of expansion...just food for thought.
 
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redman

Member
Jan 16, 2015
16
Long Island, NY
So this year I bought gasket kit and replaced for the doors, glass, griddle, ashpan, flue collar, damper. The damper was the hardest. I ended up applying the cement with my finger onto the fireback and thought it would do. But realized the bottom of damper does not create tight seal like the rest of the sides. There’s a nice little visible gap see pic below. It sits too high once closed like the bottom of the damper is almost level with the top of fireback! if I can only bring it down then I think I’m in business. *Can someone please tell me if there is a way to adjust it to go down so I can have a tight seal??(Encore 2n1 2040) thank you
 

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Reckless

Feeling the Heat
Jan 24, 2013
414
Orange county, NY
So this year I bought gasket kit and replaced for the doors, glass, griddle, ashpan, flue collar, damper. The damper was the hardest. I ended up applying the cement with my finger onto the fireback and thought it would do. But realized the bottom of damper does not create tight seal like the rest of the sides. There’s a nice little visible gap see pic below. It sits too high once closed like the bottom of the damper is almost level with the top of fireback! if I can only bring it down then I think I’m in business. *Can someone please tell me if there is a way to adjust it to go down so I can have a tight seal??(Encore 2n1 2040) thank you
Well here is the back, I would think these tabs are loose or bent. You might be able to check them from the front with the door open. Hope the door isn’t warped....
 

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redman

Member
Jan 16, 2015
16
Long Island, NY
Well here is the back, I would think these tabs are loose or bent. You might be able to check them from the front with the door open. Hope the door isn’t warped....
I’ve seen them. I definitely loosened One of those through the flue collar to get damper off track so I can cement fireback. I’m thinking I may have not tightened it back all the way. If I need to, is it difficult to get the whole damper out? I assume I would have to take the top off
 

Reckless

Feeling the Heat
Jan 24, 2013
414
Orange county, NY
I’ve seen them. I definitely loosened One of those through the flue collar to get damper off track so I can cement fireback. I’m thinking I may have not tightened it back all the way. If I need to, is it difficult to get the whole damper out? I assume I would have to take the top off
Can you get the flue collar back off easily to take a look? Probably can get everything you need to through there. I’ve done the full gasket through the flue collar opening before.
 
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Diabel

Minister of Fire
Jan 11, 2008
2,868
Ottawa, ON
So this year I bought gasket kit and replaced for the doors, glass, griddle, ashpan, flue collar, damper. The damper was the hardest. I ended up applying the cement with my finger onto the fireback and thought it would do. But realized the bottom of damper does not create tight seal like the rest of the sides. There’s a nice little visible gap see pic below. It sits too high once closed like the bottom of the damper is almost level with the top of fireback! if I can only bring it down then I think I’m in business. *Can someone please tell me if there is a way to adjust it to go down so I can have a tight seal??(Encore 2n1 2040) thank you
To me it looks like your damper is starting to warp. Not sure on the 2040 but very common on older models. It happens due to over firing the stove. I would use thicker gasket in that problem area.
 
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