2022-2023 BK everything thread

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After 10 years of very long burn seasons, I've really lost a lot of brick to erosion/corrosion or whatever. They're just crumbling and a few have cracked as well. It came on rather suddenly. To be clear, the stove is still safe to burn but I don't want these things failing all the way in the winter. I'm just glad we're not required to use a specific type of brick or OEM replacement. That's a plus for BK. Cutting brick appears very easy with a regular tile saw.
I score with hacksaw and snap.
 
Looks like we are on like Donkey Kong two weeks early. I scored some Hatch chilies at Kroger today ($2.49/ pound) and was out in my driveway with my pressure canner in the 2200-2300 local window.

Starting today the Canada geese are headed a bit east of south, and getting the lead out after normal goose hours. They were, at this late hour, low enough I could have harvested a few with #4 birdshot with just about any choke other than wide open. Dozens and scores of them headed over. I suspect it was the young'uns lacking in wisdom about weather patterns, but even then the young hot heads are a bit early to be headed for Vancouver on their way to Mexico.

I'll keep an ear peeled for cranes. They are usually passing through a bit east of south as a herald of moose season on Sept one. They make a ton of racket and will be hard to miss. The Artic Swans passed by about ten days ago, more or less normal. They stop here on their way north in the spring, but are only noticed southbound by folks watching for them as they generally fly over/by Fairbanks without stopping.

I got nothing for winter severity prediction, but it looks like probably a couple weeks early start this year. I did find this one concerning:
 
How many cords or how many hours?

True. Although I'd suspect fast burns at higher temperatures to accelerate failure more quickly than long burns at low temperature. Could be wrong, but most material failures are accelerated with rising temperature.

I thought it was clinkers sticking to the bricks but even with a constant thick ash bed the corrosion and softening has only accelerated.

This made me laugh, as I went thru the same mental process. I was wondering why I was suddenly having so many clinkers two years ago, until I did the summer clean-out and realized those clinkers were chunks of floor brick!

I also would like a more durable brick and since BK allows any brick to be used, the more dense local bricks are preferable to me.
Interesting idea. What brick are you considering? It'd be interesting to consider it's thermal conductivity, and impact on protection and performance, versus the OEM brick.
 
Interesting idea. What brick are you considering? It'd be interesting to consider it's thermal conductivity, and impact on protection and performance, versus the OEM brick.

Apparently the performance range of firebrick is quite narrow. Narrow enough to be irrelevant. The biggest difference for the manufacturer appears to be weight so it’s worth a few more bucks for lightweight puff bricks to save on shipping. At least that’s all I can think of. Since BK tells us to use whatever, I’ll consider my value system which gives no importance to weight and more to local availability and durability.

I’ll try and find the same dense bricks used in my nc30. Very nonporous and smooth surface that feels dense. Checking the masonry outlets and maybe even our farm supply stores.
 
I’ll try and find the same dense bricks used in my nc30. Very nonporous and smooth surface that feels dense. Checking the masonry outlets and maybe even our farm supply stores.
Do you put similar enough hours on the NC30 to conclude that the durability is indeed related to apparent density? It would make sense if that were the case, but at the same time, sometimes intuition can be dead backwards.

I need to buy some new parts for the gas fireplace on my patio, and had planned to do it online. But between that and now the need/interest in replacing firebrick, it might be worth taking an hour or two to visit a local hearth store.
 
The bricks are pumice bricks. Secondary combustion stoves often rely on thermal bricks (much more dense) to achieve desired emissions results. Using a catalytic combustor negates the need for dense bricks.

In our models that were EPA approved and Secondary combustion, we used dense bricks.
 
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Do you put similar enough hours on the NC30 to conclude that the durability is indeed related to apparent density? It would make sense if that were the case, but at the same time, sometimes intuition can be dead backwards.

I need to buy some new parts for the gas fireplace on my patio, and had planned to do it online. But between that and now the need/interest in replacing firebrick, it might be worth taking an hour or two to visit a local hearth store.

I do not put similar hours on the NC30 but it is obvious to me that the puff bricks would be less durable than something resembling a brick.

Though I do not put high hours on the NC30, the hours burning are at maximum safe output. That could be good or bad for brick life.

Luckily, bricks aren't terribly expensive if you don't need to ship them.
 
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I do not put similar hours on the NC30 but it is obvious to me that the puff bricks would be less durable than something resembling a brick.

Though I do not put high hours on the NC30, the hours burning are at maximum safe output. That could be good or bad for brick life.

Luckily, bricks aren't terribly expensive if you don't need to ship them.
I'll agree with your assumption that resistance to mechanical wear-and-tear should be higher with a heavier (denser) brick. But I also won't be terribly surprised if there's some other failure mechanism we're failing to predict, which could be better or worse, in the denser brick. Your usage case for the NC-30 certainly appears to favor going with that brick, at least for those of us who sometimes burn on high.

Either way, like you said, a low-cost risk worthy of experimentation, if you have the hours to burn on it. I'm definitely interested in the result, myself.
 
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Apparently the performance range of firebrick is quite narrow. Narrow enough to be irrelevant. The biggest difference for the manufacturer appears to be weight so it’s worth a few more bucks for lightweight puff bricks to save on shipping. At least that’s all I can think of. Since BK tells us to use whatever, I’ll consider my value system which gives no importance to weight and more to local availability and durability.

I’ll try and find the same dense bricks used in my nc30. Very nonporous and smooth surface that feels dense. Checking the masonry outlets and maybe even our farm supply stores.
There is a massive difference between firebrick between heat rating and insulation value. For example our brick yard has 4 different grades of firebrick. They vary greatly depending upon heat rating. Some are definitely more brittle. I actually find that the lightweight higher r value pumice brick erode faster but don't crack as fast as most standard brick.
 
The bricks are pumice bricks. Secondary combustion stoves often rely on thermal bricks (much more dense) to achieve desired emissions results. Using a catalytic combustor negates the need for dense bricks.

In our models that were EPA approved and Secondary combustion, we used dense bricks.
Is it correct that your company allows the use of any type of brick as replacements in your stoves? If so how does that work with the ul listing being that the stove would no longer be as tested?
 
Is it correct that your company allows the use of any type of brick as replacements in your stoves? If so how does that work with the ul listing being that the stove would no longer be as tested?

While we wait for BKVP, I recall that in the past he has spoke to this "issue" and stated that the brick type is not documented and so not part of the UL listing. I certainly do not want to risk creating a dangerous situation.
 
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Is it correct that your company allows the use of any type of brick as replacements in your stoves? If so how does that work with the ul listing being that the stove would no longer be as tested?
Not one Blaze King stove requires r-value hearth or floor protection. Requirements for all our stoves is ember protection. Additional insulating properties of dense brick does not violate our safety tests. Lastly, we do not us UL for our safety tests.


Good question!
 
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Not one Blaze King stove requires r-value hearth or floor protection. Requirements for all our stoves is ember protection. Additional insulating properties of dense brick does not violate our safety tests. Lastly, we do not us UL for our safety tests.


Good question!
Your stoves are still tested to ul standards though right? I know many companies use other authorized labs but I thought they all tested to the same standard.

And I just wanted to clarify if it was true that your company allows any type of firebrick to be used because most specify a specific type. And as someone who works on them I would like to know what I need to use.
 
Quick question about blazeking warranty, I doubt that I will ever need it except for the cumbuster possibly but is it transferred to the second owner or is it original owner only.
 
Your stoves are still tested to ul standards though right? I know many companies use other authorized labs but I thought they all tested to the same standard.

And I just wanted to clarify if it was true that your company allows any type of firebrick to be used because most specify a specific type. And as someone who works on them I would like to know what I need to use.
Use any type....and thank you.
 
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Quick question about blazeking warranty, I doubt that I will ever need it except for the cumbuster possibly but is it transferred to the second owner or is it original owner only.
No. Original purchaser only.
 
Sorry guys, I listed the price of a 20.2 at 4.4k, that’s the price of a 30.2. The 20.2, stove with a pedestal is 3.4k. This would be for the Sirocco model.
Update. Last week I saw a BK Boxer stove at the local dealer which caught my eye with its large window and tall pedestal. I noticed the price tag of just north of 5K and basically said, nice looking but I dont need to spend that much money. A couple days ago I talked to a different dealer a couple hrs away. He was going over the inventory and said he has the Boxer for 4K, which comes with a blower and the tall pedestal. That caught my attention since the Sirocco 20.2. comes in around 3.4k without a blower. Today I emailed the salesman back with the stock photo of the Boxer on BK's website. He verified that info and said:
"4062.88 + tax is it exactly
😊
exactly as you see it!
I HAVE IT BURNING ON OUR FLOOR IF YOU WANT TO SEE IT AND IF YOU TAKE IT OFF THE FLOOR I WILL GIVE 700.00 DISCOUNT. Im going home in 10 mins talk tomorrow"!

Before emailing the above salesman back and knowing about the additional $700 discount, I called the local BK dealer to ask him how firm his price (5k) is on the Boxer. I said your the local dealer so I want to give you an opportunity to sell a stove if you can come close to another dealers quoted price. Before I told him what the other dealer was offering, he went thru the price breakdown, shipping costs, etc. Then he said his price is firm, I said that I understand completely. He asked what the quoted price was and almost crapped when I said 4k. He said you better buy it at that price if your really interested. I thanked him and wished him well on selling his inventory.

If I go with the demo unit, to me it would seem I really can't go wrong. The stove is already broke in, it won't smell. I can easily buy a new cat and still be $$ ahead. Is there any other unseen things I should look for in buying a demo unit? The way I see it, it has a larger firebox than the 20.2, which means longer pieces of firewood, longer burn times, blower included, higher output if needed. Thoughts?

A new Sirocco 20.2 is quoted

S.SC20.2 - BLAZE KING SIROCCO 20.2 W/SIDE. $2,473.72
BLAZE KING PEDESTAL W/ ASH PAN. $458.65
BLAZE KING SIROCCO 20.2 DOOR BLACK W/HANDLES. $433.33
Sub Total. $3,365.70
Tax. $281.87
Total. $3,647.57
 
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Go for it..just check the bricks but that should all be fine..

After install fo the dollar bill test on all gaskets.
 
So the bad news is the invoice came in. The oil I had delivered 07-27 was billed at $4.9995 per gallon. I typically use 800-1000 gallons annually.

The good news is my cordwood is now worth more money than ever before in my life.
 
Update. Last week I saw a BK Boxer stove at the local dealer which caught my eye with its large window and tall pedestal. I noticed the price tag of just north of 5K and basically said, nice looking but I dont need to spend that much money. A couple days ago I talked to a different dealer a couple hrs away. He was going over the inventory and said he has the Boxer for 4K, which comes with a blower and the tall pedestal. That caught my attention since the Sirocco 20.2. comes in around 3.4k without a blower. Today I emailed the salesman back with the stock photo of the Boxer on BK's website. He verified that info and said:
"4062.88 + tax is it exactly
😊
exactly as you see it!
I HAVE IT BURNING ON OUR FLOOR IF YOU WANT TO SEE IT AND IF YOU TAKE IT OFF THE FLOOR I WILL GIVE 700.00 DISCOUNT. Im going home in 10 mins talk tomorrow"!

Before emailing the above salesman back and knowing about the additional $700 discount, I called the local BK dealer to ask him how firm his price (5k) is on the Boxer. I said your the local dealer so I want to give you an opportunity to sell a stove if you can come close to another dealers quoted price. Before I told him what the other dealer was offering, he went thru the price breakdown, shipping costs, etc. Then he said his price is firm, I said that I understand completely. He asked what the quoted price was and almost crapped when I said 4k. He said you better buy it at that price if your really interested. I thanked him and wished him well on selling his inventory.

If I go with the demo unit, to me it would seem I really can't go wrong. The stove is already broke in, it won't smell. I can easily buy a new cat and still be $$ ahead. Is there any other unseen things I should look for in buying a demo unit? The way I see it, it has a larger firebox than the 20.2, which means longer pieces of firewood, longer burn times, blower included, higher output if needed. Thoughts?

A new Sirocco 20.2 is quoted

S.SC20.2 - BLAZE KING SIROCCO 20.2 W/SIDE. $2,473.72
BLAZE KING PEDESTAL W/ ASH PAN. $458.65
BLAZE KING SIROCCO 20.2 DOOR BLACK W/HANDLES. $433.33
Sub Total. $3,365.70
Tax. $281.87
Total. $3,647.57
Sounds like a pretty good deal for the Boxer. Ask them if the 10 year cat warranty and tax credit will still be in effect since it’s their floor model?
 
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My fellow off grid neighbor is looking for a new wood stove I recommended an Ashford or Sirroco 20.2 . They have a small two story cabin about 500 sq ft each floor. Stove would be located in the kitchen living room area that I’d say was about 300sq ft so pretty tight. Staircase is about 12 ft from current hearth so hopefully the heat will travel up some and not blast them out of the main living area. Lots of windows, 2x4 construction and I don’t think insulation is that great. The hearth is about 48” deep, looks like the stove pipe would have to have a slight jag out with 45 elbows to line up with stove but he also has about 20’ total chimney/flue so draft should be ok.

You guys think this stove will be a good fit? He was thinking something smaller but I told him the turn down of the BK would allow a larger fire box with longer overnight burns.
 
Check out the 30.2. My house is 1200 sq. ft single story in NorCal and not as cold as you. It's not overkill due to the ability to turn it down. Longer burns. I'm glad I decided on the 30.2. Check the dimensions. 30.2 not much bigger than 20.2 if my memory serves me.
 
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