You don’t need the fans to run the stove, however a door is a must have..
What model stove ??
2022-2023 BK everything thread
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What model stove ??
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
I think some of it depends on how long the red fir has been down. If it’s green, I’d check my pipe after a month for creosote. If it’s been down for a year but just been out in the weather and wet, it will be less problematic but still not letting the stove perform at its best. Just my experience. Get a bunch stacked in while you’re burning if possible and if seasoned but just wet, will be much better after a couple weeks
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
PropTwister
New Member
Yes, that door seems to be the priority at this point! The dealer said there aren't any black doors with a glass around and they are waiting on the factory at this point. I got the King Ultra. Heating about 3000 sq ft with 10 ft ceilings. Excited to get burning!
PropTwister
New Member
It was a standing fir that had been dead for about a year. I have it all spit up and it's in stacked in my garage with a fan on it. Garage stays in the low 50's so we'll see.
PropTwister
New Member
I just bought a pallet last Friday in case I need to do that. Hoping I can supplement with the free Fir, but I don't want to build up a bunch of creosote either.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
BKVP
Minister of Fire
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
That’s pretty much all I burned my first season although I had about a 1/2 cord stacked inside the same room as the stove. I remember checking the moisture content and it was surprisingly low in the fir snags I cut down. Mixing it with the press logs will spoil you though as a warning.
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
I should add that the Doug fir puts out more heat but for a shorter time in my experience. The press logs are nice in the milder weather. This is what I noticed. If you stick 1 or 2 off the press logs in with a load it acts like electric starter when you go to reload. It gets smothered under the ash and lasts crazy long
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I seem have gotten into a seam of black walnut in my stacks. Funny how you don't even remember where this wood came from, by the time it's ready to use. I likely felled this tree five years ago, as it's been split and stacked for 4 years. I mark them with a tag when I split and stack them, but there's no record kept of when or where they were felled.
Now what has me laughing is that while I've grown to despise black walnut as a terrible low-BTU wood, it actually scores substantially higher than Nealm's beloved doug fir, on our venerable Sweep's Library. In fact, according to this list, the fractional gap between black walnut and red oak is smaller than the gap between doug fir and black walnut: https://hearth.com/articles/chimneysweep/howood.htm
I'll be honest, I think that list has walnut scored better than it really is. Having burned absolutely obscene amounts of red oak over the last ten years, with at least a dozen cords each of white oak and black walnut mixed in, I can say the net BTU gap between black walnut and ANY form of oak feels more like 30%, although that might be somewhat colored by my recent and sudden shift from white oak directly to black walnut.
What's this mean for Doug Fir? I don't know. I would like to understand the basis behind these BTU charts, and how much variability there can be within a species. I suspect any tree slowly growing in a dense forest will have much higher BTU value than the same volume of tree growing quickly in a sunny yard, maybe even roughly proportional to rings per inch count variation. Seeing how vast the data is in these charts, it's hard to believe they got a real wide sampling of each species tested, as the investment in testing would already be very substantial, having only one or a few samples per species.
Now what has me laughing is that while I've grown to despise black walnut as a terrible low-BTU wood, it actually scores substantially higher than Nealm's beloved doug fir, on our venerable Sweep's Library. In fact, according to this list, the fractional gap between black walnut and red oak is smaller than the gap between doug fir and black walnut: https://hearth.com/articles/chimneysweep/howood.htm
I'll be honest, I think that list has walnut scored better than it really is. Having burned absolutely obscene amounts of red oak over the last ten years, with at least a dozen cords each of white oak and black walnut mixed in, I can say the net BTU gap between black walnut and ANY form of oak feels more like 30%, although that might be somewhat colored by my recent and sudden shift from white oak directly to black walnut.
What's this mean for Doug Fir? I don't know. I would like to understand the basis behind these BTU charts, and how much variability there can be within a species. I suspect any tree slowly growing in a dense forest will have much higher BTU value than the same volume of tree growing quickly in a sunny yard, maybe even roughly proportional to rings per inch count variation. Seeing how vast the data is in these charts, it's hard to believe they got a real wide sampling of each species tested, as the investment in testing would already be very substantial, having only one or a few samples per species.
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
I’ve burned about everything that can grow around this area. Unfortunately it wasn’t all properly seasoned and a pre epa stove. I do have a decent comparison of old growth (yellow fir) vs second growth ( red fir) and there is a definite difference. I’ve burned at least a pallet of 4 different kinds of press logs and in my experience they’re easier to dial down than anything else I’ve burned in the princess. Last year I cranked it up with a full load of home fire logs for a while and it definitely got hot. I wouldn’t say it goat any hotter than a dry load of Doug fir though. I do some oddball species tree removals but the problem in my rural area is they will fight you for the firewood lol. Will be milling up some 100 year old Doug fir with some white speck here pretty soon for possible flooring and will be burning the waste but no decent hardwood
So I'm getting my new Ashford25 installed today/now. I noticed some slight surface rust on the side panel. I let the installer know and they said they also noticed it and took pictures of it. He said they have original BlazeKing paint and can cover it since it's such a small section. Just wanted to ask others if this is normal, and if that paint spray will solve the issue.
PropTwister
New Member
I have several acres of some Doug Fir but mostly Ponderosa. As soon as the snow melts, we'll try and get 10 cord cut and split up. I'll probably only have about 3 of those cord from dead trees so the live cuts will probably need to wait a couple years to burn. Looks like I'll get spoiled burning a few pallets of NIELs along the way. The stove installers should be here in the next hour with the stove!
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
Thanks! The side panel was spray painted and looks as good as new. First "real" fire after a small breakin fire.
PropTwister
New Member
BKVP
Minister of Fire
Super looking. As for paint curing, we suggest in the manual to do so on a warmer day so windows can remain open. It will stop..but may occur to lesser degree when you burn a really hot fire...then it's done.
PropTwister
New Member
The dealer just finished installing our new stove and did a really nice job!
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
Ya, that looks really good. Those are nice looking stoves and the rock adds to it. I’m not jealous of the heat output but I am a little bit of how that looks for sure
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
I don't understand, the cat is glowing and I have a good fire, but the thermostat dropped to inactive zone. Is this normal?
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
It would not be normal on a freestander. The cat meter you are looking at is an on/off idiot light that is connected by wires. Hopefully those wires, or that system hasn't failed.
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