2022-2023 BK everything thread

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This morning when I reloaded I only left it on high until the cat was at 3:00 and then turned the thermostat down to about 5:00. With it at 5 I was able to hold flames for over 20 minutes without the cat going beyond the active zone very far which got all the wood charred I then turned it down to 3:30 and it's heating nicely. Seems to be a trial and error situation but I'm getting it dialed in. I'm sure it will all change when I get a row or two into the shed and hit some bigger splits and some birch.
Other brands, good ones with similarly smart employees, do not instruct the operator to run wide open for 20-30 minutes after cat engagement. Rather, they say to immediately begin turning the air down after cat engagement. I think it’s worth getting the load charred and the system thoroughly warmed up at the beginning of each load. It should benefit your efficiency for the rest of the long and low burn.

Good luck. It’s hard to really mess this thing up if you shut the door and get the bypass closed as soon as the cat meter reads active.
 
I don't know (I have a free standing BK) but @BKVP will know.
 
The insert comes with two metal scrap strips. The installers will place carriage bolts head down into the leveler nuts (4). They can then push or slide the unit into place.

The shroud is secured from the rear, lest you have to look at fasteners. But....it's very, very heavy.

If you're concerned about a quality install, either take the day off or tell installers you needs lots of pictures for your insurance company.
 
I noticed tonight that the door on my new Boxer is sagging about 3/8" or 1/2 cm, from the hinge side to the latch side. I can grab the bottom of the door and lift upwards. The play seems to be in the two hinges but tightening the bolts only made the door harder to open and not straiten it out. I checked the manual which covers sliding the hinges to tighten the door gasket. I can't see that taking a sag out of the door. Also the Allen bolt and 9/16 nut are very hard to loosen or tighten for that matter. I was thinking about adding a washer to the bottom hinge bolt to lift the end of the door upwards. I can also see the door gasket line slowly run off center matching the sag in the door. I didnt want to try much else without seeing if there is a solution to leveling the door

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I noticed tonight that the door on my new Boxer is sagging about 3/8" or 1/2 cm, from the hinge side to the latch side. I can grab the bottom of the door and lift upwards.
It's important to get that corrected so that the door gasket seats correctly. Is the dealer helping you?
 
Does the liner have to be disconnected to move it out enough to get to the nuts or can it remain connected? I'm going to assume there has to be some play.
There is a flue adapter affixed to the firebox. If the fit is tight, the adapter is removed, connected to liner and reconnected to the firebox from the inside. It's important that the adapter is properly secured under two tabs that are part of the firebox.
 
I noticed tonight that the door on my new Boxer is sagging about 3/8" or 1/2 cm, from the hinge side to the latch side. I can grab the bottom of the door and lift upwards. The play seems to be in the two hinges but tightening the bolts only made the door harder to open and not straiten it out. I checked the manual which covers sliding the hinges to tighten the door gasket. I can't see that taking a sag out of the door. Also the Allen bolt and 9/16 nut are very hard to loosen or tighten for that matter. I was thinking about adding a washer to the bottom hinge bolt to lift the end of the door upwards. I can also see the door gasket line slowly run off center matching the sag in the door. I didnt want to try much else without seeing if there is a solution to leveling the door

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I think we have two different topics in this thread. The BX24 does run down slightly. If you look with the door open, you'll see a little "shoe" that the door ramp up. You can put a small shim in there as part of leveling the door. Is this a new stove? Have you contacted the dealer? It's adjustable, but be careful not to over loosen the adjustment nuts on the hinge side.

Contact the dealer first please....call us if you need more assistance.

BKVP
 
I think we have two different topics in this thread. The BX24 does run down slightly. If you look with the door open, you'll see a little "shoe" that the door ramp up. You can put a small shim in there as part of leveling the door. Is this a new stove? Have you contacted the dealer? It's adjustable, but be careful not to over loosen the adjustment nuts on the hinge side.

Contact the dealer first please....call us if you need more assistance.

BKVP
I haven’t contacted the dealer, I just noticed it today. The stove was a floor demo model with some use. I was told by the dealer the warranty covers it as a new stove. I did loosen the hinge bolts because the manual says that’s the way to access the hinges to tighten the door gasket.
 
I haven’t contacted the dealer, I just noticed it today. The stove was a floor demo model with some use. I was told by the dealer the warranty covers it as a new stove. I did loosen the hinge bolts because the manual says that’s the way to access the hinges to tighten the door gasket.
Was it closer to level before trying to tighten the door gasket?
 
Was it closer to level before trying to tighten the door gasket?
I didn’t do anything to the stove before I noticed it was sagging. I was sitting in a chair looking at the stove and thought the door didn’t look level. That’s when I measured it and saw it wasn’t level, then I checked the manual which didn’t say anything about adjusting the level. Then I tried to adjust it. No difference after tightening the two hinge bolts. Like I said before, it only made the door close harder.

I also looked at the door and didn’t see the little shoe you were referring to that ramps the door up. I would assume that would be on the hinge side correct?
 
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So I have posted on hear about a year ago about my current stove set up. Sens Then I did as was said and had some one out. I had a wood burning insert (that pervious owner changed to a vc wood stove but left insert) it seems to have a 12 inch outer liner and a 8 inch iner ( not sure what that's called perhaps "Coaxial pipe" ) In any case I Am told it should be changed out to Class a double-wall all-fuel pipe.
My ? is this diagram stats 8 inch from "front Flange Sides to pad sides.
IS that stating that it needs only 8 inch's to a wall or other object from the front of Conner (red) or the whole side or just the area in blue?
Ty for any help.

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The hearth pad sizes are not necessarily the same as clearance (to walls etc.)

The 8" is the whole vertical line there (the whole edge of the pad), and it is for the pad. There should be other diagrams regarding clearance to combustibles.
 
On a Sirocco 20 is it normal for the thermostat knob to have more resistance when the stove is hot? When it's cold the knob is very free but the hotter it gets the harder it is to turn. When the top is 600° the knob turns very hard.
 
I would see if you can lubricate the rod a bit. Graphite would work imo.
My stove (different stove, but same system/tech) does not exhibit the same as what you describe.
 
On a Sirocco 20 is it normal for the thermostat knob to have more resistance when the stove is hot? When it's cold the knob is very free but the hotter it gets the harder it is to turn. When the top is 600° the knob turns very hard.
I don't recall a specific relationship to temperature, but it is normal that the thermostat knob builds resistance over time, if not lubricated. There are countless posts on this forum about removing the cover and lubricating with either dry graphite or high-temperature anti-seize compound. I did my own after the first 2-3 years of operation, and they're due again, now around year 7.
 
Man some of you guys light up already? Im hoping another month before I do in sunny SE Michigan
 
We've had some cool nights already. With a rare third LaNina looming we may be in for another cold winter on the left coast.
 
Been burning steady since last week. Around 40° at night and high 50's during the day so it's time.
Btw, I see you're in Fairbanks. There is a hearth.com member with a BK there; if you ever need BK advice, bring a good beer to @Poindexter :)
 
Lol, I did the same (FA264CCL -> Chinook).
Do read the manual. Play with the thermostat. And have dry wood. With these three things (if the install is all a-okay), you'll get through the learning curve quickly enough.
 
Yeah the BK seems to be popular around here. I just got one and threw a DutchWest in the dumpster so it's all new to me.
If you're in the same "smoke police" neighborhood as he is, go get his advice in how to get into compliance as soon as possible after a reload. He did studies with settings that look alien to me, but it works for him.
 
Lol, I did the same (FA264CCL -> Chinook).
Do read the manual. Play with the thermostat. And have dry wood. With these three things (if the install is all a-okay), you'll get through the learning curve quickly enough.
Yeah after playing with the thermostat it really likes 3:00 position. Any lower and it falls below the active zone after about six hours. Above the 3:30 position it gets above the active zone. I'm hoping as outside temps change and the cat gets broke in I can run it at 4:00 because at 3:00 the top is under 350° or so. Getting it up to 500 or so will probably be needed when it's -40°.
 
If you're in the same "smoke police" neighborhood as he is, go get his advice in how to get into compliance as soon as possible after a reload. He did studies with settings that look alien to me, but it works for him.
Yeah they like to fly around with a drone and see who they can harass by telling them it's illegal to heat a home when the temps are under -20°. When it's warmer out they don't care 😶
 
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