So I watched a video last night by Buckin' Billy. He had a stock 562xp with a 32" bar and chain. He converted it from 3/8 to .325 and his bar was a lighter style bar that isn't made anymore. He was also only cutting really soft wood but it seemed to run fine.
I have no interest in a 32" bar and from anything I read, its way more than what that saw should handle. However, I wouldn't mind a 28". I know it's considered the max my my 562xp, and I have read posts on other forums, but it seems inconclusive on how much this saw will struggle with this change. I do not want to drop to .325 because I don't want to have to change the sprocket to go back to the 20". I really am only considering it so I don't have to bend over so far all the time when bucking smaller logs. Most of what I see are people saying what it should or should not be able to do with 28," but not as many people saying they have actually done it and how it works for them. I do cut mostly hard woods, 4-5 cords a year. Not sure if jumping up to a 24" would be worth the 4" gain but I am open to opinions.
I have also done some looking into muffler mods and there seems to be pretty mixed opinions on that with the 562 as well. Any insight would be appreciated. I am going to cut my cover to allow for more air flow like the newer models have.
I did not even know Husky made a light bar. I am very interested in that. Looks like amazon has the 24" for 108.00.I have a 24" Husky Light bar for my 562XP. When I bought it from Stahls they told me it was made by Sugihara, and it costs less money than a Sugihara or Tsumura light bar. They don't have them on their site but I'm sure if you call they'll get you setup. The 562 has enough power to pull it with ease in hardwood.
I'm not too far from you I believe. If you want to come over one day and give a test drive, let me know.
If I remember correctly mine was even cheaper from Stahls. I was like a kid in a candy store and ordered all kinds of stuff so the shipping price might off set the savings if you are just ordering a bar. If you have not used the X-Cut chain I'd recommend getting at least one loop. Based off of my experience it stays sharper than Stihl OEM chain.I did not even know Husky made a light bar. I am very interested in that. Looks like amazon has the 24" for 108.00.
Not sure exactly where you are, but I appreciate the offer. It seems you are as much a fan of your 562 as I am.
Not really looking to make the saw louder, because it hurts my ears as it is lol, or so much performance improvement, but to keep the saw cooler. It is one of the original 562s and it still is a hard starter when its hot in the summer.
Ah. I wondered because you mentioned about it being loud, and thought you may be like my dad. I'm not sure if I've ever seen him use any kind of hearing protection. Chainsaws, guns, powertools. Doesn't matter, he doesn't use it. I've always been somewhat careful with my hearing. Ironically, I started to develop tinnitus at 16-18, and he still doesn't have it at 68.Yes I am big on ear protection. I spent my entire childhood on our farm running anything from weedeaters for hours to clear fence or sitting on a 120 horse tractor with a silo blower running. My grandpa was full deaf in his right ear (which was a good thing because he could't hear my grandma complaining about his driving lol). I wear ear protection even when I run my table saw or other louder power tools. I have already started developing some hearing impairments. I make my son (12 now) wear protection all the time as well.
I do wear the same helmet also because I had a branch hit my shoulder one day as well. A baseball bat sized chunk of ash. Enough to wake you up to the situation. I do not fell without a helmet on.
2-in-1 does not work on skip or semi-skip chain. I suppose you can use it, but you lose the main advantage, which is that it holds the file at the correct height in relation to the tooth.Do you have a 2in1 for that size chain ?
If your saw saw not "self feeding" into the cut (i.e. if you had to push on it at all), then you were past the point of needing to sharpen. An instructor for the Game of Logging and for LEAP (Logger Education to Advance Professionalism) had a good description for this: "You don't sharpen a chain because it got dull, you sharpen it to keep it from getting dull." His point was don't wait until it's cutting poorly. Dress it up as soon as you feel the self-feeding action starting to fade.The oiler is turned up all the way. I sharpened it and played with the chain tension. Sent the weekend cutting up a cherry that was starting to die and had no issues. I didn't run it very long at any one time and the cherry is a lot easier on the saw than the old, hard dead ash I was cutting. Maybe it wasn't as sharp as I thought. Ill keep running it and see if that was the issue.
I'm guessing you mean "Full Comp" (Full complement) chain. That is standard chainsaw chain. Full house refers to a specialty chain where every link has a cutter, so twice as many teeth as standard chain.The only change I need to make now is the chain. I did not get a skip tooth chain yet so I picked up one at TSC that fit. Its a Husky full house semi.
Thank you for all the responses. You are correct it is a Standard chain. I am going to order a semi or skip chain for hardwoods. I think I am going to work on my touch up more and learn a bit more about racker depth. The new light bar seems to oil great and I am wondering if the woodlandpro bar just didn't oil well. The DGP oil seems to work great as well.If your saw saw not "self feeding" into the cut (i.e. if you had to push on it at all), then you were past the point of needing to sharpen. An instructor for the Game of Logging and for LEAP (Logger Education to Advance Professionalism) had a good description for this: "You don't sharpen a chain because it got dull, you sharpen it to keep it from getting dull." His point was don't wait until it's cutting poorly. Dress it up as soon as you feel the self-feeding action starting to fade.
I'm guessing you mean "Full Comp" (Full complement) chain. That is standard chainsaw chain. Full house refers to a specialty chain where every link has a cutter, so twice as many teeth as standard chain.
Full House:
View attachment 338568
Standard, Semi Skip, and Skip Chains:
View attachment 338570
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.