A few questions about lining the chimney myself to try and save a few bucks

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Mr. Jones

Feeling the Heat
Oct 25, 2012
265
Kennewick, Washington
First off, it's an existing exterior wall masonry chimney. I'm getting it cleaned soon. There's a damper that may need to come out after 60 years. I found a do it yourself kit of the single wall liner that comes with the cap, etc. You can also purchase separately the insulation and a mesh to keep insulation on the liner. My question is, is this what I want to use, or do I want the actual expensive double walled insulated stainless steel pipe by like 5 feet long, times two, and then a short flexible single liner at the end to pull through an eventual block off plate and snake it to the insert? I just watched a youtube video of a guy using the same kit I'm looking at, but am not sure if it's ok for me to use.

Also, i was wondering if I can snake the 6 inch liner through the damper without taking it out, would it be ok if it went to an oval shape to make it through the damper, since it's not quite 6 inches wide? Or is that a no no, and I must have someone come out for probably $500 and cut this thing out? Thanks guys.
 
Flex stainless liner is what you want. Measure the tile liner first and make sure the ss liner plus insulation will fit in the chimney. Try to avoid ovalizing the liner if possible If the damper needs to be notched or removed to provide clear passage that can be done with an angle grinder. That certainly shouldn't cost $500.
 
Right on. 11 inch flu. What holds the liner up at the top while it's basically dangling there? Especially when cleaning it with extra pressure pushing down? I'm watching this guy install the exact kit, and I can't tell what's holding all the weight of the liner. Surely not the sealing silicone? It's northline express on YouTube ”how to install a chimney liner yourself ".
 
It's clamped at the top cap. Here is another video.
(broken link removed to https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/blog-2/how-to-install-a-chimney-liner/)
 
Thank you. One last question..........for now.. :p I'm about to order one of the kits. For the princess insert, should I get the normal flex line, or the smooth inside one that's a little thicker I believe? Either way I'm getting the insulation to wrap them as well.
 
I'm about to order one of the kits. For the princess insert, should I get the normal flex line, or the smooth inside one that's a little thicker I believe? Either way I'm getting the insulation to wrap them as well.
What ever type you get absolutely do not get the 2ply smooth wall stuff it is junk. Either get the plain old light wall corrugated or heavy wall which is what we use for all of our wood stove installs.
 
Another question. Just trying to get my ducks in a row before I start this process, so there's no hiccups mid install. I was wondering about insulation above the bottom block off plate made out of thin metal. Kind of like my attic access, I glued insulation to it with spray adhesive. Is there any spray adhesive that's high temp rated?

Also, to seal off the block off plate, and around the chimney liner, what to use? Any brands you like? Some sort of high temp caulk/silicone? Thanks.
 
no need to glue the insulation. Use Roxul and stuff it around the liner. Let it lie on the block-off plate. Where the block-off plate meets the masonry will not get that hot. Regular silicone adhesive is fine.
 
I got a 20' length of 8" ss insulated liner it came in a long box, actually I paid almost $1000.00 for the installation kit but I'm happy with what I got
 
Should I stuff a foot or two of extra insulation at the top as well, making the liner snug with the original clay liner so it doesn't flop around, and maybe keep more heat inside the chimney? 6 inch pipe with half an inch of insulation and the mesh, so let's say 7 inches. The flue is 11 inches square, so two inches plus of space on the outside of the liner all the way around.
 
Should I stuff a foot or two of extra insulation at the top as well, making the liner snug with the original clay liner so it doesn't flop around, and maybe keep more heat inside the chimney? 6 inch pipe with half an inch of insulation and the mesh, so let's say 7 inches. The flue is 11 inches square, so two inches plus of space on the outside of the liner all the way around.
You can but there is not need
 
When your top plate and clamp is installed properly there is no need for anything else. When its locked down, it's not going anywhere.
 
Question. I'm at about 12.5 to 13 feet in chimney height from top of stove. Bk calls for 15 feet minimum. I can get an 18 inch extension, but for like 80 bucks. I'll still be a foot to a half foot short of the 15. Is it worth the 80 bucks in your opinion for only 18 more inches, or am I close enough to the 15 feet?
 
I can get an 18 inch extension, but for like 80 bucks.
What type of extension? $80 sounds pretty low for a proper adapter and class a extension.
 
Yeah that is a horrible idea an uninsulated single wall piece of pipe sticking up above the chimney will cause any creosote in that smoke to condense right away.
 
We're at 16ft from the bottom of the firebox, a little over 14 from the
top. Luckily there's excellent draft. That's just how it came out after
the install. Planned on going with one more piece of insulated but it
wasn't needed. Even in summer a lighter inside the stove starts an
upflow.
The shanty got smoky once when I opened the front door with the damper
shut from a backpuff. The prevailing breeze creates a nice updraft too.


CheapMark
 
Yeah that is a horrible idea an uninsulated single wall piece of pipe sticking up above the chimney will cause any creosote in that smoke to condense right away.
I was wondering if I can pull my insulated liner through that, since I'm getting 15 feet length. That was my plan. If not, I'd get something else that is insulated, but not sure if some other companys extension would connect nicely to this kit's set up.
Anyways, my total for the whole kit is $523 without the $80 extension. Is there any better deals out there? I've shopped around for a bit, and I couldn't really find any kits cheaper, when you add the $180 insulation for the liner.
 
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Anyways, my total for the whole kit is $523 without the $80 extension. Is there any better deals out there? I've shopped around for a bit, and I couldn't really find any kits cheaper, when you add the $180 insulation for the liner.
That is already really cheap for an insulated liner I doubt you will do much better. What you want for an extension is an adapter plate to go from the liner to class a chimney. It also needs to be able to be anchored to the top of your chimney.
 
What do I use, if anything to seal up the end piece of the liner that fits into the back of the stove? Is there a certain product that doesn't dry out and crack? I don't want to glue it into place in case I ever have to pull it out, just seal it good.
 
What do I use, if anything to seal up the end piece of the liner that fits into the back of the stove? Is there a certain product that doesn't dry out and crack? I don't want to glue it into place in case I ever have to pull it out, just seal it good.
Well first off you should not have liner sticking into the stove you need an adapter or an elbow to make it fit right. And you dont need sealer either
 
Question. I'm at about 12.5 to 13 feet in chimney height from top of stove. Bk calls for 15 feet minimum. I can get an 18 inch extension, but for like 80 bucks. I'll still be a foot to a half foot short of the 15. Is it worth the 80 bucks in your opinion for only 18 more inches, or am I close enough to the 15 feet?

Which bk? If it's the princess, the manual used to specify 12 feet of chimney and then with no change to the stove the manual recently started asking for 15'. I have 12' above my princess and it is fine. You can always buy an extension later.
 
I meant the adapter that fits into the stove. No need to seal that up eh? I went ahead and bought the liner extension. Oh, and about roxul in the masonry fireplace. The stuff is like $50 a bundle. Does it make a big difference installing the 3.5 inch roll in there behind the insert? Or is it negligible return on investment?
 
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