A little help needed on install of new stove

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sniper695

New Member
Jan 14, 2019
15
michigan
I bought a Century S244 on clearance and want to get it setup in a little building I have on our vacation property.

I have selkirk class A pipe, I know I need a transition to black pipe to connect to the stove, Main question here is should you have a way to remove stove with removing chimney? Like the piece between stove and class a being expandable or can I just get the stove where I want it and build the chimney up through the roof (its only one story)

I am planning on running the selkirk class A as close to stove as possible. My structure is not large and with a heat shield I can have the stove about 4 in from the wall according to the manual (10 in space 67% reduction with metal heat shield). I am planning on doing the install 5-6 inch from the wall to be safe. I don't want to run heat shield all the way to the ceiling.

I have the bracing that connects to pipe and then to roof, I have 3 or 4 of them, are these necessary/a good idea? The Chimeny will only need to be 3-4ft above the roof to meet install from manual.


The install will be very simple. just a straight chimney up from the top of the stove (chimney port is on top) Ceiling is 2x4 cathedral ceiling currently unfinished.

any other things I didn't think about? I have the Pipe (class A selkirk), the rain cap, the roof flashing.
 
Yes, most manufacturers make telescoping stove pipe. Note that single wall pipe has a clearance of 18" minimum. The stove clearance to the back wall is 10" with double-wall stove pipe. There is no additional reduction allowed stated in the manual, at least that I could find. Chimney pipe is expensive. It sounds like you would be better off sticking to the 10" rear clearance using less expensive double-wall stove pipe.
 
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begreen said:
Yes, most manufacturers make telescoping stove pipe. Note that single wall pipe has a clearance of 18" minimum. The stove clearance to the back wall is 10" with double-wall stove pipe. There is no additional reduction allowed stated in the manual, at least that I could find. Chimney pipe is expensive. It sounds like you would be better off sticking to the 10" rear clearance using less expensive double-wall stove pipe.
Click to expand...

I already have the Class A (I bought 15ft of it, used in great shape, its barely even dirty). I was looking at page 34 it says different materials and how they effect the clearance. Am I misunderstanding this, from what I read I think I can lower clearances by 67% if I use at least 24 gauge steel spaced 1 in off wall.

If I can find it cheap I may try and use granite, is this a good idea? I thought it would be pretty and hold heat through the night (The stove is kinda small to burn all night)

With the telescoping pipe and my application is this a good idea or don't bother? any reason to need to move the stove out?
 

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sniper695 said:
Am I misunderstanding this, from what I read I think I can lower clearances by 67% if I use at least 24 gauge steel spaced 1 in off wall.
Click to expand...
That is for unlisted stoves. Some new stoves do allow a clearance reduction with a wall shield and provide those tested clearances in the manual. Some other stoves have a statement that a clearance reduction may be allowed with a wall shield if approved by the inspecting authority. The Century manual has neither statements in it, at least that I can find. 10" is the minimum clearance if double-wall stove pipe is used.

How will the chimney pipe be supported? Normally this is done with a cathedral ceiling support box, but there are roof supports made for some brands of chimney pipe. I'm not a big fan of them, but it may be an option. What brand chimney is this?
 
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It is selkirk chimney I am running it as close to stove as I can. On the century manual listed above it gives clearances. Then give reduction chart a few pages lower. Am I reading that wrong?

Can I just run it up off the stove without support?

I have the Class A pipe which is rated for 2in from combustible, I was planning on running that right through the ceiling on out. Will that not work?
 
sniper695 said:
Then give reduction chart a few pages lower. Am I reading that wrong?
Click to expand...
No, you are correct. Thanks for pointing that out. One needs to go several pages past the clearances page to see this. I think it is a misinterpretation of NFPA 211, but with this documentation you are correct. In reality it should work ok. A proper wall shield is very effective at reducing temps behind it as long as it is open at the bottom and top.

The stove pipe, even if a short section will still need proper clearances for the pipe. Will the wall shield extend to above where it transitions to chimney pipe? Will this be single or double-wall stove pipe?
 
I was planning on no stove pipe. Just an adapter to translation from stove to the chimney pipe.

I just wanted to know if this is ok. Is there any need to access the chimney from the bottom?

If I need to I can get whatever is neccessary.

I currently have 15ft of the chimney pipe which is plenty to go from stove to above roof.

Should I put a piece of telescoping stove pipe in?

If I need to what is the cheapest way to attach to the roof? It is a cathedral ceiling 2x4 construction. Not insulated currently.
 
It is ok, but not so great for servicing. I thought that was why you were asking about stove pipe here:
sniper695 said:
I know I need a transition to black pipe to connect to the stove, Main question here is should you have a way to remove stove with removing chimney?
Click to expand...

Selkirk makes several different pipes. Is this Supervent, Metalbest, Ultra High Temp?
 
begreen said:
It is ok, but not so great for servicing. I thought that was why you were asking about stove pipe here:
Click to expand...

How often will I need to service it, it will be occasional use. My guess max 20 fires a year.

If it is recommended how is the best way to accomplish adding in a telescoping pipe cheaply. I'll use the Class A for as much as possible
 
If this is Supervent and you don't already have the chimney cap then get the cathedral support kit - JSCS6CCSK.

The servicing will be cleaning the chimney. This can be done by carefully removing the baffle.
 
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When I search JSCS6CCSK I get no results. I already have chimney cap and roof flashing. All I need is some way to support chimney, and the telescoping pipe and an adapter to connect telescoping to class a
 
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If I understand that kit right it either won't work for me or would not look very nice.

I only have 3.5 in (a 2x4) between ceiling at the roof.

I have the chimney cap already. That box looks like it is something like 8-12in so it would stick for down into my room.
 
Yes, that is what it is supposed to look like.
cath pipe.jpg
Or like this:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-a-stove-diy-advice-please.55514/#post-696337

I already gave you the part number for transitioning from chimney pipe to stove pipe

You can also use a roof support brackets if you want, but use the bracket made for your chimney pipe. Is it Supervent? If so use Supervent part JSC6RS
 
Ok, after looking at your pics and reading the install manual for the cathedral box that is making alot more sense. I think I may go that route.

On installing that cathedral support box if it is not touching a 2x4 do you just frame in a 2x4 box where you want it?

I have selkirk super vent jsc6sa3
 
I had 2x6, but yea. You need to bring the framing to the box on four sides. However you want to accomplish that.

untitled-1-jpg.jpg
 
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Ludlow said:
I had 2x6, but yea. You need to bring the framing to the box on four sides. However you want to accomplish that.

View attachment 238296
Click to expand...

I am assuming you screw the box and the chimney pipe together and that is what supports the chimney?

If i have around 3ft (3ft is what the manual specifies) of chimney sticking out of my roof do I need the support struts (I have the struts, I just don't like making holes in my roof) up there or is it strong enough? it is only a 12x16 building with a steel roof.
 
No. There is a support collar that attaches to the pipe and you then drop the pipe into the box from above. No sway support strut needed until 5 feet above roof.
 
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Ludlow said:
No. There is a support collar that attaches to the pipe and you then drop the pipe into the box from above. No sway support strut needed until 5 feet above roof.
Click to expand...

Does the collar come with the box? or do you buy it seperate.

I really appreciate everyones help on here. I am a DIY but never messed with chimneys and want to make it safe.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OK so I ordered the cathedral ceiling box, and adapter (chimney to stove) and a 12-18 in expandable double wall stove pipe.

I already had the chimney pipe, the flashing, and the rain cap.

Am I missing everything, where my install will be located is remote so its a pain to go to the store..

What I bought
https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...box-class-a-vent/jsc6ccsb/p-1444453723143.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...pter-class-a-vent/jsc6ase/p-1444453727027.htm

They had a really good price on this compared to other places
https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...black-stove-pipe/dsp6al-1/p-1444453718729.htm
 
sniper695 said:
Ok, after looking at your pics and reading the install manual for the cathedral box that is making alot more sense. I think I may go that route.

On installing that cathedral support box if it is not touching a 2x4 do you just frame in a 2x4 box where you want it?

I have selkirk super vent jsc6sa3
Click to expand...
Yes, box it in. You can paint the box another color if you want to make it less obvious.

Download the Supervent installation guide. It should be helpful.

According to the docs you will also need the Universal Chimney adapter (CA) to connect the the DSP stove pipe to the stove pipe adapter. Seems kind of goofy to need 2 adapters, but that is what it shows.

Screen Shot 2019-01-15 at 6.11.58 PM.png
 
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