Added insulation to the liner and a block off plate...

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Edit - changed a few items - don't remember what.

One thing to remember - check the liner manufacturers instructions before you insulate it - the liner is approved for insulation based on how it was insulated when tested - poured vermiculite may be suitable for one liner, but not another.

As well, remember that if you don't have the code required air spaces around the exterior of a masonary flue, insulating the liner can reduce these required clearances. We are all very up to speed on clearances around the stove itself, what about the liner, which can reach 1200F for very long periods of time. Pyrolisis (charcoal formation) does require the wood be "on fire" to occur, it can occur over many years of exposure to high heat without flame every occuring.

Edthedawg - in your pic further up the thread - floor boards contact the brick - you likely would need to insulate the liner to meet code requirements, as this is not likely to be the only place that structural timbers are in direct contact with the masonary flue. Insulating the liner IAW instructions (not just pouring vermiculite down around it) can provide you with reduced zero/zero clearance - zero air space required around the liner inside the brick chimney, zero airspace required outside the brick chimney to combustibles. Not many inspectors/installers seem keen on pointing this out to customers. I ended up getting "burned" and am now waiting for the installer to return to bring the install up to code.

Efficency is one thing, but insurability is another - in the end, not insulating the liner IAW instructions from the liner manufacture can result in you not being covered, because you may not meet code, especially in an older home.

Give the "Best Practices" link in my signature a read. And, no, I don't sell liners, or insulation, or even own an insulated liner - yet.
 
oconnor said:
One thing to remember - check the liner manufacturers instructions before you insulate it - the liner is approved for insulation based on how it was insulated when tested - poured vermiculite may be suitable for one liner, but not another.

As well, remember that if you don't have the code required air spaces around the exterior of a masonary flue (see the pic further up the thread - floor boards contact the brick, therfore does not meet code clearances - you will need to insulate the liner to meet code requireements. Insulating the liner IAW instructions can provide you with reduced zero/zero clearance - zero air space required around the liner inside the brick chimney, zero airspace required outside the brick chimney to combustibles. Not many inspectors/installers seem keen on pointing this out to customers. I ended up getting "burned" and am now waiting for the installer to return to bring the install up to code.

Efficency is one thing, but insurability is another - in the end, not insulating the liner IAW instructions from the liner manufacture can result in you not being covered, because you may not meet code, especially in an older home.

Give the "Best Practices" link in my signature a read. And, no, I don't sell liners, or insulation, or even own an insulated liner - yet.

Hi Brent,

I understand what you are saying but given the size of my clay lined, exterior chimney, I do not have the room to wrap a 6" pipe with insulation so I am going to try and do the best with what I have. That means I will install a flex 6" and stuff as much kaowool down the top of the chimney as I can. I am not sure what else I can do.
 
tkuhe

The issue isn't size of the clay liners - it's air space around the exterior of the flue/around the liner inside the flue. As well, the clay liners being in place count for some insulating value, and not insulating it may be "safer" than insulating it. Some liners specifically state not to install anything around the liner itself - yours may be one. A Selkirk liner I looked at gave a zero clearance outside rating if an air gap was present all the way around the liner - a gap around the clay tiles may meet the needs of the spec for your liner.

In the end, get the manual for the liner - I know, it's just stainless pipe, what do you need the manual for? - get it and read it, you may be surprised by what you see. Wouldn't want an insurance inspector to ask to see it, and find out you didn't follow it.
 
oconnor said:
tkuhe

The issue isn't size of the clay liners - it's air space around the exterior of the flue/around the liner inside the flue. As well, the clay liners being in place count for some insulating value, and not insulating it may be "safer" than insulating it. Some liners specifically state not to install anything around the liner itself - yours may be one. A Selkirk liner I looked at gave a zero clearance outside rating if an air gap was present all the way around the liner - a gap around the clay tiles may meet the needs of the spec for your liner.

In the end, get the manual for the liner - I know, it's just stainless pipe, what do you need the manual for? - get it and read it, you may be surprised by what you see. Wouldn't want an insurance inspector to ask to see it, and find out you didn't follow it.

Brent,

Maybe I am confused by some of these definitions.
I have read a few manuals now and they all seem to call for a minimum of 1" clearance from combustibles. My exterior chimney is built along the outside of my house and is lined with clay. The clay interior dimensions are roughly 6.5" by 11" so there is just no way I could fit a 1/2" insulation sleeve around a 6" pipe and still fit it down.

So the clay liner is surrounded by brick and then one wall of the brick is against the house.
The pipe will definitely be touching the clay.

IMO either way, the chimney will be safer with a new ss pipe going top to bottom than the way it is now.
 
True, it will be safer, but if the masonary flue was built to deal with an oil furnace, or wasn't built to solid fuel (i.e.wood) code to begin with, adding a steel liner doesn't meet code for burning wood, just safer. There is nothing saying the clay liners need to stay. If you don't have the air gap needed, bust 'em out and run a pre-insulated rigid liner - best flue you'll ever have, easier to clean than flex and meets all code/safety requirements.

Money is cheap compared to peace of mind - that says the guy about to light his insert that is connected to a 5" uninsulated liner on an internal flue that has none of the required air gaps required and is waiting for the guy to come back and do it right. Wish I had spent even an extra $1000 to not have to fuss with it any more - but that's me.
 
oconnor said:
True, it will be safer, but if the masonary flue was built to deal with an oil furnace, or wasn't built to solid fuel (i.e.wood) code to begin with, adding a steel liner doesn't meet code for burning wood, just safer. There is nothing saying the clay liners need to stay. If you don't have the air gap needed, bust 'em out and run a pre-insulated rigid liner - best flue you'll ever have, easier to clean than flex and meets all code/safety requirements.

Money is cheap compared to peace of mind - that says the guy about to light his insert that is connected to a 5" uninsulated liner on an internal flue that has none of the required air gaps required and is waiting for the guy to come back and do it right. Wish I had spent even an extra $1000 to not have to fuss with it any more - but that's me.

Brent,

Thanks for all of the notes. I am adding the liner to a 25' masonry chimney built for my wood burning fireplace. I bought the house in march 2006 and had a chimney sweep look at it in 2007 and apart from some cracking on the exterior bricks the chimney is in good condition. I have had a few fires since we have had the house but since they really seemed like a waste of heat, we haven't burned much. I am pretty sure I would be within code to just stuff a pipe from the insert up into the flue but I would rather send it all the way to the top and seal top and bottom.
Knocking out the clay sounds like a hell of a project and I would think you would risk compromising the structural integrity of the chimney.

-Tucker
 
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