Adding a roof

[mass_burner]

Okay, I need to add a roof on this 5 x 8 wood crib for seasoned storage. It has 2x6 pt joists, but only 2x4 posts. I was thinking of sistering another 2x4 to the posts, and putting in an OSB floor. I'm planning a pretty radical slope, both to catch wind and shed snow. It has a lot of taller trees over it so not alot of snow will accumulate.

Should I approach the roof as a house roof?

 

[gzecc]

For such a small roof, I would use what I have at my disposal. What do you have in the way of free materials?

 

[mass_burner]

For such a small roof, I would use what I have at my disposal. What do you have in the way of free materials?

You know, I've come to realize that buying what I need, when I need it is preferable to saving materials in case I need them later, both in time and storage space. So, I don't have anything. I can see my wood shed from the deck, so I don't mind gussying it up a bit.

 

[peakbagger]

I would not use standard asphalt shingles as the roof pitch will mostly likely will be too shallow. Onduline or metal roofing both a nice options.

 

[gzecc]

You know, I've come to realize that buying what I need, when I need it is preferable to saving materials in case I need them later, both in time and storage space. So, I don't have anything. I can see my wood shed from the deck, so I don't mind gussying it up a bit.

2x6 front middle and back on a slop (front to back). Metal roofing panels, installed front to back.

 

[billb3]

a 2x4 on each end, 5/4 lathes between and a corrugated roof panel

that's what I replaced a plywood and tar paper roof with about 8 years ago. Still looks like new.

If the lathes start to bow in the middle after a few years add two 2x4 uprights and another rafter in the middle

 

[mass_burner]

a 2x4 on each end, 5/4 lathes between and a corrugated roof panel

that's what I replaced a plywood and tar paper roof with about 8 years ago. Still looks like new.

If the lathes start to bow in the middle after a few years add two 2x4 uprights and another rafter in the middle

Lathes?, sorry I'm not a carpenter, I'm assuming its a joinery term. How far apart should they be?

Also, I've seen these composite corrugated panels at HD, I think they may be quieter when rained on. They come in several colors too.

 

[billb3]

They usually recommend 24 inch spacing to hold the panels down with the special rubber gasketted screws
You could probably cheat with just one lath in the middle across 5 feet.
I'd probably use 5/4 deck boards rather than the 1x4 pine lath but the 1x4 would likely be cheaper and suffice.
It's not like you're building an occupied building roof that has to hold several tons of asphalt shingles and snow.

Tin/composite/clear polycarb -


OSB won't last very long outside wet.

I would use 5/4 deck boards on the floor or wire


Is the length 8 feet or just a bit shy of 8 feet ?
a bit shy can make for less cutting with standard material sizes

 

[sportbikerider78]

If pressure treated plywood is the best choice, OSB would be the worst choice. A compromise could be just regular plywood.

I just did a shed with a metal roof. You can get some really nice styles from places like home depot. Mine is a dark rust color that blends into the woods.

 

[billb3]

You could also build the roof as the floor with just one joist instead of three across the middle
you could probably stand on that and jump up and down

 

[mass_burner]

You could also build the roof as the floor with just one joist instead of three across the middle
you could probably stand on that and jump up and down

You mean with a 2x6's, like the floor?

 

[mass_burner]

They usually recommend 24 inch spacing to hold the panels down with the special rubber gasketted screws
You could probably cheat with just one lath in the middle across 5 feet.
I'd probably use 5/4 deck boards rather than the 1x4 pine lath but the 1x4 would likely be cheaper and suffice.
It's not like you're building an occupied building roof that has to hold several tons of asphalt shingles and snow.

Tin/composite/clear polycarb -


OSB won't last very long outside wet.

I would use 5/4 deck boards on the floor or wire


Is the length 8 feet or just a bit shy of 8 feet ?
a bit shy can make for less cutting with standard material sizes

Its 93 1/2" wide; 48 deep.

 

[billb3]

You mean with a 2x6's, like the floor?

yeah, except I'd use 2x4. The roof isn't gonna weigh anything appreciable except for once or twice in the Winter.
If it wasn't 8 foot long span I might use 2x3

 

[mass_burner]

yeah, except I'd use 2x4. The roof isn't gonna weigh anything appreciable except for once or twice in the Winter.
If it wasn't 8 foot long span I might use 2x3

So I could build a frame with one 2x4 in the middle on the ground and lift into position? I was planning on using galvanized carriage bolts to fasten. Then just fasten roof sheets at front, middle, and rear. That's it?

I've never put a roof on anything before.

 

[billb3]

carriage bolts sounds like overkill to me but then I own several nail guns and when you own a nail gun the whole world needs to get nailed

 

[billb3]

If you have no carpentry skills ( and your work so far looks OK ) the easiest roof would be one that you would not have to cut any angles or bird mouths in rafters.
Just slap a header the length and pitch you want on each side (side being the two short dimensions, your 4 feet deep ) ( use your carriage bolts ) then nail the three stringers (8 footers or 93-1/2 inches whatever fits ) between them.

Like below, except that's square and you won't need that brace unless you go crazy with an overhang.


If you buy ten foot tin (plastic/fiberglass might be easier to cut) then you can cut them in half and do fancy schmancy overhangs

This roof doesn't use any bendy laths either

 

[billb3]

or

throw a header across the front and back
and then build a square frame and plop it on top of the headers.
You could go crazy and do birdmouths or just toenail it or get some pipe strap to lash the frame onto the header
or hurricane ties !

you'll just have one section instead of the four shown and you won't need the plywood unless you want to and you won't have that many rafters.

That one looks like it is made of all round wood and may be fastened together with those long lag screws that are almost the diameter of drywall screws. Can't think f the name of 'em off-hand. Round wood, dimensional lumber, they're all sticks.

 

[mass_burner]

If you have no carpentry skills ( and your work so far looks OK ) the easiest roof would be one that you would not have to cut any angles or bird mouths in rafters.
Just slap a header the length and pitch you want on each side (side being the two short dimensions, your 4 feet deep ) ( use your carriage bolts ) then nail the three stringers (8 footers or 93-1/2 inches whatever fits ) between them.

Like below, except that's square and you won't need that brace unless you go crazy with an overhang.
View attachment 159076

If you buy ten foot tin (plastic/fiberglass might be easier to cut) then you can cut them in half and do fancy schmancy overhangs

This roof doesn't use any bendy laths either

I like this approach, should I double up the four existing corner 2 x 4's first?

 

[Lake Girl]

billb3, The second shed is a beauty but a lot of work peeling those logs.

I know you were just using as an example for framing out roof

 

[Lake Girl]

Also, I've seen these composite corrugated panels at HD, I think they may be quieter when rained on. They come in several colors too.

Not sure if the composite panels are as durable as steel which also comes in several colours FIL had a porch off the back of the house that used the composite panels - sprung a leak after only a couple of years. It was tough chasing down the source of the leak. Your shed roof would be significantly smaller but with it being under trees, I would think steel would hold up better to the potential of branches dropping from above.

 

[billb3]

I like this approach, should I double up the four existing corner 2 x 4's first?

I wouldn't bother for 5x8

 

[billb3]

Not sure if the composite panels are as durable as steel which also comes in several colours FIL had a porch off the back of the house that used the composite panels - sprung a leak after only a couple of years. It was tough chasing down the source of the leak. Your shed roof would be significantly smaller but with it being under trees, I would think steel would hold up better to the potential of branches dropping from above.

My dad built a patio roof with fiberglass ones. It would get full of mold in all the little cracks and crevices. I don't think he was in the ground 30 days when mom asked me to get rid of it for her.

 

[mass_burner]

OK, so put the roof structure on, I am thinking, would it speed drying to cover the sides, rear with plastic for greenhouse warming, or maybe this will be a better idea in the fall?

 

[billb3]

IMO, unless you're going to build an oven to bake the moisture out you want as much wind going thru as is aesthetically possible.

However, sometimes, in the Winter, wind driven snow and subsequent melting/re-freezing can be a nuisance and <something> to block the wind at least from where one is taking wood from can be desirous.
( nothing like having to bring a sledge hammer to whack an arm full ice laden splits out of the frozen pile )
If the wood is already well seasoned then an enclosed shed suffices and might look nicer.
If the wood needs seasoning time then you need something minimally like a tobacco drying shed or just wide open.

 

[mass_burner]

I just checked a few re splits of red oak, I will be putting in there and they're coming in at 18-25%, 15 months seasoned so far.