Adding log lift kit to splitter

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I did mine that way but it was time consuming even with help. IMO, an electric / hydraulic log lift is the way to go. YouTube has videos of mods, good and bad.
You gotta do what works for you. Personally, I have trouble believing any log lift is faster than my tractor, when I'm lifting 7 - 10 large rounds in a single bucket load. But you and I have different tractors, different splitters, different stacking arrangements... so I won't pretend to know what works best for you. To the OP, try all methods suggested, and pick the one that works best for your circumstances.
 
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I haven't had time to install a log lift on my splitter, or look more into it. My neighbor cut down a bunch of trees and I've been busy processing them. He has a skid steer, so he picks up the really heavy ones and sets them down on my splitter for me, so that temporarily solved the problem.
I am still worried that the log lift would stick out further than the tires, thus making my splitter tip over when trying to lift a heavy log. I'll have to do some measuring or mock something up before I decide to purchase the log lift kit
 
I'm out west so I don't get oak much but did get about 1/2 of a cord from someone's yard tree. The red oak wood was green. I was surprised at the round's weight. Even the ones that weren't that big were really heavy. Watch those fingers and toes. Moreover, I sure would like to have the problem of having to deal with these heavy big rounds.

I've seen those btu charts where Douglas Fir is around 23 or so and another btu chart where red oak is 25. Do my hands deceive me? Oak is way denser.
 
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that's likely per pound or something like that . a pound of oak at 20% is going be a lot less volume wise that the same in Fir due to density of oak. All wood has apx the same btu amount/pound . A cord of oak at 20% apx 5000lbs, fir maybe a 3rd of that.
 
Once I arrived on a 'free wood' site, and another wood gatherer was arriving at the same time. There were all sized trees already cut down. I zoned in on the downed large trees. I figured the other guy would be interested in the big stuff, too. So I asked him (in order to share). He started cussing at the mention of the big wood. He only wanted the smaller stuff because he had hurt his back previously. So maybe the OP should focus on the medium and smaller wood - it all burns.
 
I have a platform next to my splitter where all the big wood goes on to from my truck.
The only lift i do is the initial lift into the truck.
I only bring dry wood into my yard.
Wood goes from truck onto platform,platform to splitter,then direct to the stack once it has split.No more bending down to pick the wood up.
The more you handle the wood ,the more your investment of time is in each piece. 22 load2.jpg
 
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I have a platform next to my splitter where all the big wood goes on to from my truck.
The only lift i do is the initial lift into the truck.
I only bring dry wood into my yard.
Wood goes from truck onto platform,platform to splitter,then direct to the stack once it has split.No more bending down to pick the wood up.
The more you handle the wood ,the more your investment of time is in each piece.View attachment 298359
I agree! I don't want to handle it any more than I have to. On my property, staging is critical given the weather and soil type. I could reduce handling somewhat if I kept the wood close to the house.
 
You wont want weight to be cantilevered much outside of the width of the axle/tires.
Or the tipping point front to rear.
 
Hey guys, after hurting my back this weekend lifting logs on my log splitter I'm strongly considering adding a log lift to it.
My splitter is a 30 ton Northstar splitter, which can go vertical, but I do not like running it that way, and I find it to be really hard on the back as well, maneuvering the logs around each time.
There's a rugged made log lift kit available, which I'm pretty sure I can make work on my splitter fitment wise.
The kit does not come with the valve/ hydraulic lines.
I was considering taking the T port from the current valve and plumbing it in the P port of the valve which would control the log lift. Then hook up the return on the T port on the second valve.
Doing that would pressurize the T port on the existing valve while the log lift is in use, and I'm not sure the valve can take this. It's a brand valve, have to check which one when I get home from work, but I'm pretty sure it's an LS series valve, and their brochure does not mention anything about this.
While doing some research I came across power beyond.
From my understanding power beyond is a sleeve you can insert in an existing valve, which allows you to run another valve in series.

Has anyone here ever done anything like this? Thoughts opinions criticisms concerns tips more than welcome.
Pictured below is my splitter, had some help from a buddy who owns a tractor, so unfortunately lifting them up like this was a one time ordeal.

Thanks in advance
View attachment 286861
Handling wood is dangerous. I too once used a loader for my larger rounds and it presented several problems.. 1. It was a slow operation by myself. 2. IMO it was more dangerous due to the reduced work area with no table to help prevent a drop. 3. It was slow with helper I trusted for same reasons. And, Unless I left my equipment there, setup & takedown was about another hour. There are plenty of examples of DIY or modded store bought systems on YouTube. I studied a bunch before making my lift and I recommend a lift to everyone. I was going to incorporate the rugged made lift but it was out of stock at the time. The photos are of my acorn and then my full grown tree. I believe someone online has taken member photos and is now trying to sell plans for our designs.
Search log lift or homemade/DIY log lift. Make sure you have a central support to prevent your unit from going vertical. Here is just one idea.



images (1).jpeg images.jpeg
 
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I was at a gtg this spring and one of the splitters had a winch boom on it. Like an engine hoist, but it was 12v. It was slicker'n snot.
I think one of them is called Gorilla lift. I think they will bolt permanently to the splitter or connect to the hitch
 
Here are some old videos of my test trials at the research center for loglift excellence. I added a stop on the operators side to prevent the round from rolling to far.


 
Played on mute, because my office mate was in a video call, so I couldn't hear your commentary. But I love the way the lift becomes your work table, very nice ergonomics there.

However, I hate that you have to walk around the splitter twice for each round, one to load and lift, and then again to split. How could we improve that? Maybe lift a few rounds at a time?
 
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Played on mute, because my office mate was in a video call, so I couldn't hear your commentary. But I love the way the lift becomes your work table, very nice ergonomics there.

However, I hate that you have to walk around the splitter twice for each round, one to load and lift, and then again to split. How could we improve that? Maybe lift a few rounds at a time?
Thanks, I work from the left. There is a safe amount of room between the lift and the controls but I'm not conditioned from that approach and feel uncomfortable. LOL, I guess the only step I reduced in that process was the lifting part. [Edit] A buddy of mine and I made the owner of a 21' long dump trailer cry uncle in about an hour and a half, including staging. My buddy cut and loaded while I split and tossed.
 
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Would it be safe to work from the same side as the lift, if the hydraulics suddenly collapsed? That'd be my primary concern with that. Overall, working from the far side looks nice, as the work table is on the far side of the splitting wedge. Nearly perfect workflow. You need a teenager to roll rounds onto the lift for you between their TikTok posts, or whatever they're using these days, then you'd have the perfect system!
 
I think one of them is called Gorilla lift. I think they will bolt permanently to the splitter or connect to the hitch

Would it be safe to work from the same side as the lift, if the hydraulics suddenly collapsed? That'd be my primary concern with that. Overall, working from the far side looks nice, as the work table is on the far side of the splitting wedge. Nearly perfect workflow. You need a teenager to roll rounds onto the lift for you between their TikTok posts, or whatever they're using these days, then you'd have the perfect system!
Thanks, I can operate the unit from the lift side, but I don't feel comfortable, and it was built for my choice across the beam. If the tractor isn't connected to the hitch the walk isn't much. I have loaded the beam, then the lift so I could potentially do three of those size rounds if they aren't stringy. But some of those in the video were real stringy and without a hatchet, it was easier to push the unwanted twin down the slide. The unit was running slightly over idle, and if someone loads the lift I can really move because many times that wedge pops the round within the first few inches.
 
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