Advice on a replacement stove

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I do have to question if a blazeking would put out enough BTUs of that old beast of a stove is being run hot enough to run that clean. The heat will be far more even without a doubt
 
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An oval liner will work without removing the clay in that case
That's what I was thinking. It looks like there is only about 15' of the chimney above the thimble. A 15' DuraLiner system would be around $1500 for materials.
 
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So with all of this information and my Kodiak is now cooking us !!! after the new insulation/spray foam going from plain cinder block walls. Which direction would you recommend I go? Not going to do anything until this heating season is over.
 
So with all of this information and my Kodiak is now cooking us !!! after the new insulation/spray foam going from plain cinder block walls. Which direction would you recommend I go? Not going to do anything until this heating season is over.
Ok if it's cooking you out now that opens up lots of options.
 
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Yes I have to choke it down to where it’s flue temperature is around 250 degrees now, where before I’d keep it around 450. Flue dampening max and air inlets barley cracked open now.
Ok so I would say most large stoves will work fine in that case
 
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Ok so I would say most large stoves will work fine in that case
Any options to keep my current chimney set up… non catalytic?
I plan to continue to heat the house for the next 20 years with wood as long as I’m able. It all started just wanting a glass door and better looking stove. Wife prefers the cast iron look.
 
Any options to keep my current chimney set up… non catalytic?
I plan to continue to heat the house for the next 20 years with wood as long as I’m able. It all started just wanting a glass door and better looking stove. Wife prefers the cast iron look.
I wouldn't recommend running any modern stove through an uninsulated exterior chimney like yours honestly. One of the big 8" vent stoves (bk king or regency 5200) might work but I wouldn't recommend it
 
I wouldn't recommend running any modern stove through an uninsulated exterior chimney like yours honestly. One of the big 8" vent stoves (bk king or regency 5200) might work but I wouldn't recommend it
Thanks so much for the help! What would you suggest to correct my current chimney situation? I’m quite handy regarding doing it myself just need some advice 😊 no way I’m paying 9k when I’m capable. This has a big eye opener for me and I want to do it correctly.
 
Thanks so much for the help! What would you suggest to correct my current chimney situation? I’m quite handy regarding doing it myself just need some advice 😊 no way I’m paying 9k when I’m capable. This has a big eye opener for me and I want to do it correctly.
An oval insulated liner equivalent to a 6" liner and a 6" stove. It can be duraliner or oval flex liner
 
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An oval insulated liner equivalent to a 6" liner and a 6" stove. It can be duraliner or oval flex liner
Are the catalytic stoves the way to go? They seem very finicky from what I’ve researched, are they that much more efficient vs a non catalyst stove?
 
Are the catalytic stoves the way to go? They seem very finicky from what I’ve researched, are they that much more efficient vs a non catalyst stove?
If you need low heat for a long time yes. They are also generally a bit more even heat output. If you are typically going to be burning harder no I don't think cat stoves make much sense.
 
So with all of this information and my Kodiak is now cooking us !!! after the new insulation/spray foam going from plain cinder block walls. Which direction would you recommend I go? Not going to do anything until this heating season is over.
I suspected this would happen. Congratulations. This work will pay off for the life of the house.

Are the catalytic stoves the way to go? They seem very finicky from what I’ve researched, are they that much more efficient vs a non catalyst stove?
The Ashford 30 will still work. It can run low and slow. If you want simple, with a good fire view in a non-cat, look at the Lopi Endeavor and Pacific Energy Super or Alderlea T5. The T5 can still provide a 12 hr burn and will run fine on a partial load of fuel. It's an easy breather so the shorter chimney will not be an issue and it has the cast iron look favored by her.
 
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I suspected this would happen. Congratulations. This work will pay off for the life of the house.


The Ashford 30 will still work. It can run low and slow. If you want simple, with a good fire view in a non-cat, look at the Lopi Endeavor and Pacific Energy Super or Alderlea T5. The T5 can still provide a 12 hr burn and will run fine on a partial load of fuel. It's an easy breather so the shorter chimney will not be an issue and it has the cast iron look favored by her.
Liking the looks of the PE Alderlea T5 & T6... I like the larger fire box of the T6 but not sure if I would need that size? I have been baking out here since I finished up the insulation! Thinking I could burn it lower, guess I'm just used to a large fire box and cutting my wood in the 20" size.
 
There is a large polar system descending across the US. If it hits PA you may get a chance to see how the house heats with temps in the teens. If you're still in your skivvies and opening windows, then yes, the T5 would suffice. If the Kodiak feels about right at that temp, then go for the larger T6. If you have many cords of 20" firewood already split and stacked, then the wider firebox of the Drolet 1800 (Osburn 2000) can accommodate them by loading E/W.
 
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There is a large polar system descending across the US. If it hits PA you may get a chance to see how the house heats with temps in the teens. If you're still in your skivvies and opening windows, then yes, the T5 would suffice. If the Kodiak feels about right at that temp, then go for the larger T6.
I see a few nights going into the single digits this week… good idea I see how it goes. Right now in the 30-40 degree range & it’s always too hot 🥵
 
If you have many cords of 20" firewood already split and stacked, then the wider firebox of the Drolet 1800 (Osburn 2000) can accommodate them by loading E/W. If you don't have cords ready to burn, then it's time to get stacking. A modern stove really wants fully seasoned wood. The good news is that you'll be burning a lot less wood to stay comfortable.
 
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If you have many cords of 20" firewood already split and stacked, then the wider firebox of the Drolet 1800 (Osburn 2000) can accommodate them by loading E/W. If you don't have cords ready to burn, then it's time to get stacking. A modern stove really wants fully seasoned wood. The good news is that you'll be burning a lot less wood to stay comfortable.
Maybe 8 cords cut & stacked as of now… another tri axel load not touched yet for next season. Soo not that big of a deal just used to using my 20” bar as a reference
 
8 cords could last 2+ yrs with the new insulation and sealing. 20" will just fit E/W in the Alderlea T6, but not in the T5.
 
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What kind of burn times do you experience with the T6?
It depends on the outside temps. Our old farmhouse has pretty high heat loss. It would not fare well in New England without some substantial fuel consumption.

In milder weather, 45 to freezing, we get 10-14 hrs per load depending on the wood, how well I pack the stove, and anticipated temps for the day or night. In colder weather, I am pushing the stove harder for heat and typically burn in 8 hr cycles then.