Advice on stove backwall

[MontanaSam]

Hope you all can see the photo below. Currently building a stove pad and backwall, got a concern;


The metal lathe on the backwall is 4 ft. wide, however the studs are not centered behind the lathe, so I am only hitting 3 studs, plus the double top plate. One stud in the very middle, and 16'' to right and left.

My worry is that the lathe to the right and left of the outer studs overhang by 6" on the left side, and 9" or so on the right, and is only secured to the top plate and with screws threw the drywall (to keep the lathe flat, not structural at all).

Planning on mortaring this weekend and laying brick veneer. Should I be concerned about the lathe becoming saggy or flopping, cracking the masonry work? Any advice?

 

[webby3650]

I would put more screws in it, even though it's only in the drywall. You do plan on doing a scratch coat right? If you do that, then you will be just fine.

 

[MontanaSam]

Ten4, 1/2" thick scratch coat, and then the bricks with some more mortar.

 

[webby3650]

Ten4, 1/2" thick scratch coat, and then the bricks with some more mortar.

I like it.

 

[kennyp2339]

This is just for looks and not heat protection right?

 

[MontanaSam]

So as I understand it the Super 27 stove needs a minimum of 5" clearance from the back of stove to combustible. On top of studs is 3/8" sheetrock, than 1/2" Durock cement board, then there will be mortar and brick veneer. Back of stove will be 5" from the brick surface, to be safe. The wall is for looks yes, but also it serves as added protection, and will help hold in some heat too.

This is pre-lathe:

 

[kennyp2339]

Follow the instructions for clearance and you should be good to go. Unfortunately the feature you are building does not provide a reduced clearance. Durarock and sheet rock are non combustible components to building, they will not burn, but simply transfer the heat (conduction) to something that is combustible, like the wooden studs that are holding the material up. To really make a non combustible wall, the studs should be metal type, and the whole area encompassing the stove should be non combustible with roxal insulation.

 

[begreen]

So as I understand it the Super 27 stove needs a minimum of 5" clearance from the back of stove to combustible. On top of studs is 3/8" sheetrock, than 1/2" Durock cement board, then there will be mortar and brick veneer. Back of stove will be 5" from the brick surface, to be safe. The wall is for looks yes, but also it serves as added protection, and will help hold in some heat too.

This is pre-lathe:

View attachment 159308

Looks good Sam. The Super 27 is well shielded. If the stove pipe is less than 18" from the nearest combustible (drywall behind the durock) it needs to be double-wall pipe or shielded. Thus for 5" clearance double-wall connector is required.

I think you are really going to like that stove. Be sure to have plenty of dry wood on hand and it will heat very well.

 

[DougA]

Brick veneer should be no problem with sagging.

 

[MontanaSam]

Got the brick all finished, more 6/4" blue-pine trim to install today. My wife painted the next room pink while I was doing this, but she swears up and down it's "not pink, it's salmon".....what can you do.
Thanks for the advice fellas. Next step is stove install.

 

[Grisu]

My wife painted the next room pink while I was doing this, but she swears up and down it's "not pink, it's salmon".....what can you do.

What every husband in a happy marriage does: Agree with your wife.

 

[DougA]

At least the paint matches the fiberglass.

 

[begreen]

Got the brick all finished, more 6/4" blue-pine trim to install today. My wife painted the next room pink while I was doing this, but she swears up and down it's "not pink, it's salmon".....what can you do.
Thanks for the advice fellas. Next step is stove install.

View attachment 159414

Whoa, raw salmon and avocado walls. That's an eyeful. Has she been eating a lot of sushi or sashimi lately?

 

[MontanaSam]

All done, got 'er framed in and oiled up. Looking good and ready for the stove and some snow...
any advice on cleaning the bricks? No grout got on them, but dried grouty-water, doesn't seem to want to rub off. I've heard that vinegar is good, maybe that's just my old mom being old.


Couldn't resist a shot of horns and beams.

 

[begreen]

Nicely done, it looks very handsome. For removing the grout haze a dilute solution of muriatic acid works well. Follow the instructions carefully for dilution and treat the concentrated acid with great respect.

 

[Oldman47]

Nicely done, it looks very handsome. For removing the grout haze a dilute solution of muriatic acid works well. Follow the instructions carefully for dilution and treat the concentrated acid with great respect.

You know that in high school chemistry class that muriatic acid was called HCl, hydrochloric acid.

 

[begreen]

Correct. It's still commercially sold as muriatic acid.
http://www.homedepot.com/s/muriatic acid?NCNI-5
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infmur.html

 

[MontanaSam]

Muriatic acid looks like just the ticket. Thank you much.

 

[MontanaSam]

Wanted to share the finished product, since the winter is over and we're onto wood cutting season, among other things.

I did have to modify the super 27...and I couldn't imagine living without the modification. It truly enabled the stove to burn upwards of 8 hours on just a few logs. I could load the stove with fir/larch and have a ten hour burn easy, and cook us all out of the house. 65 degree F mornings were the norm in the living room, and evenings would hit 75-80 with 3 or 4 logs. I burned 2 cords of wood this winter, exclusively heating with the Super 27.

As others had illustrated in this forum, the trick was to bend the tab which originally prevented the air intake from fully closing. Once the tab is bent, you can choke down the stove to a very low degree, and control your fires WAY better. I bent it with a pair of vice grips, easy as anything.

Stove backwall holds the heat well, and radiates for hours after the fire is out. All in all, very satisfied.

 

[CenterTree]

NICE!

Be careful ya don't kick your beer over.

 

[gnatboy911]

Very nice. What type of wood is on the lower face of your hearth? Looks great. Picture looks like it's out of a magazine

 

[Highbeam]

Durarock and sheet rock are non combustible components to building, they will not burn,

I know it's an old post, but sheetrock is combustible. The paper face towards the stove is considered your "first" combustible surface for the sake of measuring the CTC.