Afton Bay Auger Motor

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

chuck p

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 11, 2008
39
Pittston Pa.
Having some auger issues the control board is showing the auger light is on but the auger motor doesn't always turn on. It runs for a while then stops working for a few minutes and then starts again. Holding the manual auger feed button the light comes on but the motor doesn't turn, if i unplug the motor and plug it back in it runs for a bit and starts doing it all over again. I ran the motor direct for about 30 seconds and it worked just fine.
Thanks
 
If you look at the motor there is a small armature that spins, or is supposed to. If the armature spacers have worn from normal use the armature will slide down( by gravity) out of the magnetic field and it will not work. To see if this is your issue take a pencil and try pushing the armature up and down. If it moves more than the thickness of the pencil lead it probably needs replacing. To chech the motor use an old lamp cord and connect to the auger motor and plug into the wall outlet
 
If you look at the motor there is a small armature that spins, or is supposed to. If the armature spacers have worn from normal use the armature will slide down( by gravity) out of the magnetic field and it will not work. To see if this is your issue take a pencil and try pushing the armature up and down. If it moves more than the thickness of the pencil lead it probably needs replacing. To chech the motor use an old lamp cord and connect to the auger motor and plug into the wall outlet
Thanks for getting back to me. The armature does have some play in it and did hook it up to a wall outlet and and let it run for 5 mins and no issues. When the stoves was running the auger would come on drop pellets but after a while the auger light would flash but the motor wouldn't turn. I did jump the auger motor with the lamp cord while the stove was on to heat up the house.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko
Just an update. I just simulated the auger starting and stopping like the stove was on and no issues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko
When was the last time you did a thorough cleaning of all the nooks and crannies, pulled the blowers cleaned and lube. Check the vent pipe? Sounds like it’s lacking vacuum to keep the switch closed. Take the wires off the vac switch and jump them with a paper clip (don’t let them touch anything) then see if the stove runs correctly
 
  • Like
Reactions: SidecarFlip
When was the last time you did a thorough cleaning of all the nooks and crannies, pulled the blowers cleaned and lube. Check the vent pipe? Sounds like it’s lacking vacuum to keep the switch closed. Take the wires off the vac switch and jump them with a paper clip (don’t let them touch anything) then see if the stove runs correctly
Did a deep cleaning around September, lubed the motors, used the leaf blower to a deep clean it and replaced to control panel and versa grate motor and last year the snap dics was replaced. I will try jumping the vacum switch and see it that works.
Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko
Ok i just jumped the vacuum switch and the stove started the auger feed the pellets room blower came on and then the auger stopped feeding pellets. One thing i did notice is the motor cycles on and off but when it should be off the motor is turning slow and when the auger light come on it picks up speed drops pellets and them back to slow. Does this for a few cycles then quits even thought the auger light comes on.The motor is quite warm.
 
If the motor is 'quite warm', field laminations / coil. it's tying up and the bearings are dry. Did you clean that drive and lube the bearings and it could be the reduction gearcase is dry as well. Not going to get into servicing the gearcase, it's involved but very doable. My suggestion is replace the motor and gearcase drive with a new one but keep the old one, it is serviceable.
 
That's the motor that is hard to get to the way the stove is situated. It looks like it is time to replace the motor and have the old one serviced as a spare. If i hook up the motor to a outlet it runs fine. What would make it still spin slowly when the stove isn't calling for pellets?
 
Control board not sending proper voltage or leaking low voltage till motor gets hot and starts to fail
 
Great i just bought this board around September and it failed already?
 
All it takes is a voltage spike, brownout power outage etc. thats why we promote quality surge protectors on all stoves.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SidecarFlip
All it takes is a voltage spike, brownout power outage etc. thats why we promote quality surge protectors on all stoves.
It was hooked up to a UPS and i have a whole house surge protector in my circuit panel box.
 
You could take a dmm and checkout the voltages of the motors while in operation. If you have a clamp on amp meter knowing the draw will be informative. Ever take a wire off or drop one while stove was plugged in?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: SidecarFlip
That's the motor that is hard to get to the way the stove is situated. It looks like it is time to replace the motor and have the old one serviced as a spare. If i hook up the motor to a outlet it runs fine. What would make it still spin slowly when the stove isn't calling for pellets?
Not to sound condescending or being a smart arse but one should always pre-plan an installation, taking into account eventual servicing of components. Mine is a corner install and I have adequate room on all sides to access everything.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tbear853
You could take a dmm and checkout the voltages of the motors while in operation. If you have a clamp on amp meter knowing the draw will be informative. Ever take a wire off or drop one while stove was plugged in?
Some units will idle the combustion fan motor when the board is energized, mine does and always has. Mine will maintain a low speed condition so any smoke from incomplete combustion is extracted. Not that corn smokes a lot..., :)
 
Spilt milk!
 
  • Like
Reactions: SidecarFlip
You could take a dmm and checkout the voltages of the motors while in operation. If you have a clamp on amp meter knowing the draw will be informative. Ever take a wire off or drop one while stove was plugged in?
No never took off a wire while the stove was plugged in.Iwill check the voltage when get a free minute.
Not to sound condescending or being a smart arse but one should always pre-plan an installation, taking into account eventual servicing of components. Mine is a corner install and I have adequate room on all sides to access everything.
I have room just wanted a little bit more. and yes i should of had a better plan.
 
Update
Just swapped out the control panel for another one and it looks like that was the problem. Thanks everybody for all your help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tbear853 and Ssyko
Glad you got it, and thanks for getting back to us!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko
Good to hear it keeping you warm again. ;)
 
I was just about ready to suggest lubing the bronze auger bushings, but sounds like control board was intermittent. St Croix stoves like regular bushing lubing every 5 years or so depending on usage levels.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko
Great news,you are warm,Also remember,an overloaded motor can take out a control board.Also,from the other posts here,lubing auger bushings is great and wonderful,but they wear out,replace them.Used to be quite a few posts/threads here about replacing them.If you wait till there is a problem,then luibe them,you only have prolonged the failure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko
I lubed mine about 5 or 6 years ago with automotive wheel bearing grease. The auger still turns freely. I check it whenever the hopper gets low enough that I can access the auger and move it by hand. I move it axially and radially, and it moves easily. A stiff auger can cause excessive wear on the motor and gearbox, so, as we all know, lubing the bearings/bushings is quite important. (Pardon my preaching to the choir...)
 
When i replaced the auger motor i checked the auger and it spins with no binding or slop on the bushing. Begining of the season i empty the hooper and spray some Blaster graphite on the bushing.