Alderlea door gasket

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Cornelis

Member
Feb 6, 2013
109
Naugatuck,CT
Like to know how to put a new door rope on a Alderlea T6. Do you have to take of the whole door and how do I do that.
Also like to know how thick the baffle is for the side and the one goes on the top of the secondary box. The dealer wands $350 plus shipping.
Thanks
 
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Good question on the door. I was thinking of doing a replacement on it this year. The side kaowool blanket that the baffle rests against is stock stuff. Usually not a wearing item. There is no blanket on top of the secondary box. It is inside of the box and not a wearing part. For this reason the $350 price seems very high.
 
Good question on the door. I was thinking of doing a replacement on it this year. The side kaowool blanket that the baffle rests against is stock stuff. Usually not a wearing item. There is no blanket on top of the secondary box. It is inside of the box and not a wearing part. For this reason the $350 price seems very high.

I need to replace these on the side because they are falling apart.. I can make them myself but like to know how thick it is so I can by a roll for $90. Found out the door is sacking is there a way to adjust the door.
 
The door is best to stay on. It can be removed, but it's hard to do this. Put the gasket on with red high temp silicone. But first try going all the way around the window and plump up the gasket by pinching it between your thumb and forefinger. You may get another year or two out of it that way.

PS: how old is your stove and gasket?
 
I need to replace these on the side because they are falling apart.. I can make them myself but like to know how thick it is so I can by a roll for $90. Found out the door is sacking is there a way to adjust the door.

The door angle is adjustable I think, but I would have to look at it again to refresh my memory on how you do it. The side rails use very little blanket. I think it is 1.5", but given how long they last I would order a 2' square instead of a whole roll unless you have other needs.
 
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The door is best to stay on. It can be removed, but it's hard to do this. Put the gasket on with red high temp silicone. But first try going all the way around the window and plump up the gasket by pinching it between your thumb and forefinger. You may get another year or two out of it that way.

PS: how old is your stove and gasket?

the stove is 6 years old we bought it used and there was no gasket they already took it out. I have gasket cement does the rope go into the channel or does is it lay on it.
 
The door angle is adjustable I think, but I would have to look at it again to refresh my memory on how you do it. The side rails use very little blanket. I think it is 1.5", but given how long they last I would order a 2' square instead of a whole roll unless you have other needs.

If you can let me know what to do about the door that would be great.
 
This is graphite gasket right? I haven't done mine yet but it looks like it sits in the channel.
 
If you can let me know what to do about the door that would be great.

I think you need to remove the right (hinge) side panel in order to access the 3 screws that hold the hinge pin. Ping madison in a conversation. He adjusted his T6 door several years back.
 
How do you mean that? There will be play in the latch until the gasket is back in place. The handle itself has a spring behind the washer I believe that allows it to wiggle a little when not latched.
 
How do you mean that? There will be play in the latch until the gasket is back in place. The handle itself has a spring behind the washer I believe that allows it to wiggle a little when not latched.

You can move the handle when the door is closed maybe I should wiggle. I know the gasket is not in yet so maybe that will change when the gasket is in place
 
You can move the handle when the door is closed maybe I should wiggle. I know the gasket is not in yet so maybe that will change when the gasket is in place
That definitely will change with the correct gasket properly installed.
 
Keep us posted on your progress.

Note: title changed to make it easier to find in future searches.
 
Cornelis, fwiw i changed the door gasket on my T5 a couple weeks ago, Opened the door all the way and removed old one. make sure you get the channel really clean as it helps the cement adhere to the new one. i used gasket cement and slowly went around the door making sure i didnt stretch it too tight. My stove uses 5/16 th graphite and it was not hard at all, after you install it close the door and let cement dry. i waited couple hours then did the dollar bill test.. it was good to go.. hope this helps
 
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Cornelis, fwiw i changed the door gasket on my T5 a couple weeks ago, Opened the door all the way and removed old one. make sure you get the channel really clean as it helps the cement adhere to the new one. i used gasket cement and slowly went around the door making sure i didnt stretch it too tight. My stove uses 5/16 th graphite and it was not hard at all, after you install it close the door and let cement dry. i waited couple hours then did the dollar bill test.. it was good to go.. hope this helps

Thanks for the info mine take 5/16 as well.
 
The door is best to stay on. It can be removed, but it's hard to do this. Put the gasket on with red high temp silicone. But first try going all the way around the window and plump up the gasket by pinching it between your thumb and forefinger. You may get another year or two out of it that way.

PS: how old is your stove and gasket?

I have some High temp RTV Silicone gasket maker laying around that I use for the truck. Will that work for the gasket
 
Yes that will work. Don't use too much, just enough to make contact with the gasket.
 
Cornelis,

I would address the door hinging before contemplating the gasket. Or do both at the same time. Figure out how to remove the door, then regasket. If there is an issue with the door hinge bolts (ie stripped etc,) an new gasket will not help.

Once the door is rehung relatively "square" the latch can be fixed/adjusted.

IMHO, it was easy and no goobers/messes with the adhesive with the door removed and laying flat on the floor.

I am curious to see some pictures of the right side of the stove with the cast iron jacket removed.

FYI I used 3/8" graphite impregnated gasket (rutland with the rutland black adhesive) - I believe Tom confirmed 3/8" a while back. Rutland Clear adhesive can not take the stove temp.
 
Cornelis,

I would address the door hinging before contemplating the gasket. Or do both at the same time. Figure out how to remove the door, then regasket. If there is an issue with the door hinge bolts (ie stripped etc,) an new gasket will not help.

Once the door is rehung relatively "square" the latch can be fixed/adjusted.

IMHO, it was easy and no goobers/messes with the adhesive with the door removed and laying flat on the floor.

I am curious to see some pictures of the right side of the stove with the cast iron jacket removed.

FYI I used 3/8" graphite impregnated gasket (rutland with the rutland black adhesive) - I believe Tom confirmed 3/8" a while back. Rutland Clear adhesive can not take the stove temp.
Hi Madison,
I just received the good cement and 3/8" rope gasket but it does look heavier.. Now I am wondering if I should use 5/16" or 3/8" rope gasket.. Think the T-5 and T-6 would be the same or are they different?

Ray
 
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