Am I burning too good a pellet?

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I've adjusted the oak to best placement and find I can run on low, covers on and medium, covers off.

Last conversation with the tech was a request for pictures of my flue.
I believe they're looking at my masonary chimney as the problem.

Unless you folks tell me something I'm not understanding, I dont get what it has to do with the sides being on or off.
 
With the sides off you might be getting more air flow around the high limit switch. This would help reduce the temp and keep it from kicking out on you. With the sides on it may just be retaining more heat.
 
Let me see sides off more heat leaves the stove, thus lower temperatures at the sensor and more likely the air that gets sucked into the convection blower.

If the convection blower see temperatures above its thermal limit it will shut off this quickly results in the stove overheating which will shut the stove down.

On a lot of stoves you would have to manually reset the high limit switch.

If the combustion blower thermals off normally the vacuum switch will shut the stove off, but that may not always be the case if the temperature sensor reaches its limit before the vacuum detection activates.

Having an over EVL venting system or a lot of ash in the stove can result in high temperatures being seen by the combustion fan and in sever cases by the temperature sensor.

I'll also add a partially blocked convection air system can also result in overheating the stove. So can a convection fan that doesn't step with the feed rates.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
Let me see sides off more heat leaves the stove, thus lower temperatures at the sensor and more likely the air that gets sucked into the convection blower.

If the convection blower see temperatures above its thermal limit it will shut off this quickly results in the stove overheating which will shut the stove down.

On a lot of stoves you would have to manually reset the high limit switch.

If the combustion blower thermals off normally the vacuum switch will shut the stove off, but that may not always be the case if the temperature sensor reaches its limit before the vacuum detection activates.

Having an over EVL venting system or a lot of ash in the stove can result in high temperatures being seen by the combustion fan and in sever cases by the temperature sensor.

I'll also add a partially blocked convection air system can also result in overheating the stove. So can a convection fan that doesn't step with the feed rates.

So it could be real about the size of the masonry chimney....Hmm..
I have been checking temps at the vent blower and the exiting pipe to see what temps are there.

I thought I was supposed to see temps reaching 320 degrees out the vent...
Is this too high?
What should I be seeing?

The other point that caught my eye is;
"So can a convection fan that doesn't step with the feed rates".

This has been one of my points while talking to USSC.
I've been asking for the circuit diagram to show them which resistors to replace or change out with a pot for adjustment.
Dial down the feed a bit, dial up the blower and I believe this stove will run 'with the sides on'.

Once again, thanks folks for your input.
It really does help.
 
olddawgsrule said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
Let me see sides off more heat leaves the stove, thus lower temperatures at the sensor and more likely the air that gets sucked into the convection blower.

If the convection blower see temperatures above its thermal limit it will shut off this quickly results in the stove overheating which will shut the stove down.

On a lot of stoves you would have to manually reset the high limit switch.

If the combustion blower thermals off normally the vacuum switch will shut the stove off, but that may not always be the case if the temperature sensor reaches its limit before the vacuum detection activates.

Having an over EVL venting system or a lot of ash in the stove can result in high temperatures being seen by the combustion fan and in sever cases by the temperature sensor.

I'll also add a partially blocked convection air system can also result in overheating the stove. So can a convection fan that doesn't step with the feed rates.

So it could be real about the size of the masonry chimney....Hmm..
I have been checking temps at the vent blower and the exiting pipe to see what temps are there.

I thought I was supposed to see temps reaching 320 degrees out the vent...
Is this too high?
What should I be seeing?

The other point that caught my eye is;
"So can a convection fan that doesn't step with the feed rates".

This has been one of my points while talking to USSC.
I've been asking for the circuit diagram to show them which resistors to replace or change out with a pot for adjustment.
Dial down the feed a bit, dial up the blower and I believe this stove will run 'with the sides on'.

Once again, thanks folks for your input.
It really does help.


Is there any chance we can get an update on your stove? Mine is doing the same thing now. It will run for a while and then just shuts off. The problem is that it doesn't seem to do the same thing every time. sometimes it will run fine for a couple hours or even longer and then shut down and other times it will shut down after 15 minutes. I have noticed that it seems to run longer with the sides off just like yours.

Just wondering if anything the new "control board" helped this? I can't think of anything else it would be besides that.

it does have the 2 low temp sensors but i don't know why they would shut the stove off???
 
Andy H said:
olddawgsrule said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
Let me see sides off more heat leaves the stove, thus lower temperatures at the sensor and more likely the air that gets sucked into the convection blower.

If the convection blower see temperatures above its thermal limit it will shut off this quickly results in the stove overheating which will shut the stove down.

On a lot of stoves you would have to manually reset the high limit switch.

If the combustion blower thermals off normally the vacuum switch will shut the stove off, but that may not always be the case if the temperature sensor reaches its limit before the vacuum detection activates.

Having an over EVL venting system or a lot of ash in the stove can result in high temperatures being seen by the combustion fan and in sever cases by the temperature sensor.

I'll also add a partially blocked convection air system can also result in overheating the stove. So can a convection fan that doesn't step with the feed rates.

So it could be real about the size of the masonry chimney....Hmm..
I have been checking temps at the vent blower and the exiting pipe to see what temps are there.

I thought I was supposed to see temps reaching 320 degrees out the vent...
Is this too high?
What should I be seeing?

The other point that caught my eye is;
"So can a convection fan that doesn't step with the feed rates".

This has been one of my points while talking to USSC.
I've been asking for the circuit diagram to show them which resistors to replace or change out with a pot for adjustment.
Dial down the feed a bit, dial up the blower and I believe this stove will run 'with the sides on'.

Once again, thanks folks for your input.
It really does help.


Is there any chance we can get an update on your stove? Mine is doing the same thing now. It will run for a while and then just shuts off. The problem is that it doesn't seem to do the same thing every time. sometimes it will run fine for a couple hours or even longer and then shut down and other times it will shut down after 15 minutes. I have noticed that it seems to run longer with the sides off just like yours.

Just wondering if anything the new "control board" helped this? I can't think of anything else it would be besides that.

it does have the 2 low temp sensors but i don't know why they would shut the stove off???

The 'new control board didn't change anything...
I did change all the sensors as requested.. no change...

USSC has washed their hands of me until I change the flue to their spec's
Not going to happen...
I've settled to the fact that the best I will ever see from this stove is Medium
and only after it's 'dishwasher' clean...

USSC refuses to send me a circuit diagram and I do believe the problem is in there
The stove 'will not' cool off enough at settings above low...
Change over a couple of the 'timers', which will reset the pellet feed with the blower speeds and I see a marked difference in performance.

The flue situation I have, is not what you're dealing with.
You should be able to get further with them.
Once a again, I do not believe a new control board will do a thing for you...
Push for an updated circuit board!
If they indeed have one... let me know, please.
I'd love to see mine running better!

I used to love this little stove...
I've grown to liking this stove....
Now I'm hoping to go back to liking....
 
I've had one of these stoves (Forester 5824) for 3 years now. the first year was no problems. last year on my last burn for the year it did the overheat / shutdown thing referred to in these posts. This year it has done it several times already. I have traced it down to a bad 198'F sensor for the Pellet hopper protection circuit. this is the same sensor shown in these posts here. all this sensor does is protect the pellet hopper from overheating and setting the pellets on fire. the original sensor is now tripping out around 125'F. for now I have removed the sensor from it's holder and just have it hanging loose inside the stove away from the heat. the stove now runs fine. A new sensor is ordered for $7.50 and I'll install that when it gets here. that should take care of it. other than this problem, this stove has worked great for us and can crank out some good heat.
 
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