The house is 2400 sf two story.. The room its going in is rite around 450 sf.. but this room is open to the upstairs. Ceiling is around 18' high, So the cubic feet is pretty high. Its actually open to kitchen downstairs also. Thats another 240 sf. Anyway i used a 23000 btu kerosene heater in the wood stoves location and it maintained the current house temps in 25 degree outside temps...working heat pump. The thermostat is usually set to 68 degrees and i don't plan on changing that.. I will be burning the wood stove in the evenings/ nights and hopefully 24 hours on the weekends. Friday Saturday and Sunday.
Is the ceiling lower where it exits to the upstairs, and warm air can pool in the area of the 18' ceiling in the stove room? That 18' ceiling should keep you from roasting in the stove room, but you said one heater location
did get too hot in the room, so I must be missing something. I would play with different strategies for moving heat, before I went to the trouble of installing a ceiling fan (granted, not
that big of a deal to do.)
In your neck of the woods, you might get an ice storm that knocks out power, and it
could be followed by a cold snap, but probably not more than a couple days before it warms up again.
wife Loves the looks of the Jotuls. We ask the dealer about them and he kinda just said awwwww.... let me show you these osburn's . I need to go talk to them again he should be able to order one before the 2020 regs kill them.
Sure, he wants to move what he's got in stock, but I'd think he can also make money ordering you a 2020 from a warehouse. I would be inclined to stick with those, since they have been proven in the field.
2.5 cf on the oslo firebox. everyone i talk that i know tells me to get the biggest firebox i can.. The family and friends i have that burn wood all tell me to get a buck 94 or 91. well that isn't happening, the clearance on those are all crazy and and i think they would be fine as inserts but i will be the only one using as a freestanding stove.
If i drop to 2.5 cf firebox size my options go way up. Maybe i should rethink the size... I wish buck had a stove with a little bigger firebox besides the 94/91 they have like 4 stoves with 2.4/ 2.6 fireboxes.
I measured the 91..just under 3 cu.ft usable space. and the trapezoidal box requires some finagling with splits that are bigger at one end, to really cram the box. I don't know if the 94 is closer to the 4.4 they claim, since it doesn't have the cat and flame shield taking up space..? Not sure if their smaller stoves are closer to claimed firebox size..
You may be able to reduce clearances with double-wall connector pipe and wall shielding. You'd have to research, then talk to Buck for more input. I called them a couple times, and they were helpful.
i have a 1500 sq ft house and i seldom need to stuff it or i will run the wife out of the house.
ash pan....if thats a must?
If your wife has already disrobed before she runs outside, the neighbors might frown on that.
I wouldn't have a problem with it..
Ash-handling in a stove is a top priority for me; I don't wanna be shoveling out ashes (which I have done on some stoves,) trying to contain dust and having to deal with a pan of hot ash/coal
right now. 
The ultimate is a grated floor in the box, where you just run a poker through the ash and it drops into the pan, leaving the heat-producing coals in the box. You pull the pan and dump it just before you load, after the previous stir-down has cooled.
But the Buck 91 had a good dump system with a large opening and hinged lid which worked well. You have to make sure your ash pan gasket seals well, or it will add unwanted air that's not under your control. You also need something that fits down the ash dump opening to distribute ash into areas of the pan that aren't under the dump. I used an L-shaped poker that my MIL had.
Some of the Jotuls have grated ash systems.
I also liked the simple plate-steel bypass plate on the 91...no gasket to deal with. All-around great, simple engineering on the Bucks.
I know all about the bucks grizz trust me. This would be my choice if it were only my choice. Around here if i tell someone i have something different than a buck there going to look at me kinda funny.
Kentuckians are smarter than these southern Hosers give 'em credit for..
Pacific Energy Summit and Classic? its obvious the difference with the visual of the two . But is there a difference in heat output with the porcelain finish? I notice the tops look different to me.
Like Grizz said, probably no difference having enamel, but yeah, the classic looks to have a convective top, and the basic model looks like just the top of the firebox there.
I got my SIL an Alderlea T5, which has a convective cast iron enameled jacket. Sharp-looking but more money. The T6 is bigger, same box as the Summit, but no enamel..??
PE is another stove brand with good, simple engineering, and they toss good heat.
![[Hearth.com] Another "Which new stove to buy?"](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/chimney-1-webp.253608/ "[Hearth.com] Another \"Which new stove to buy?\"")
