Any good deals on B-vent pipe?

[21acrewoods]

I am looking to get some 30' of B-vent. Where can I find a good deal on it?
I will be using it for ducting off my Quadra fire 7100. Can I insulate that? if so , with what?

 

[21acrewoods]

It specifically says to use B-vent for ducting in my instructions for the heat zone kit I got with my Quadra fire 7100.
Insulating probably isn't a good idea if it has alum. interior, thanks.

 

[BrotherBart]

Give Glenn at Chimney Liner Depot a call. Their 35' aluminum flex liner kit is just a couple of hundred bucks and that includes all the stuff for lining a chimney so a stick of just the pipe should be pretty cheap. 1-800-943-1515

(broken link removed to http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=241)

Since it is low temp insulating shouldn't be a problem.

 

[BrotherBart]

b-vent is aluminum interior & only used for gas. not wise to insulate because al melts @ 1200*f

Pook it is for duct work. Ain't no 1,200 degree air in duct work.

 

[21acrewoods]

So what would be good to insulate with.
Cleaning.....good point.

 

[BrotherBart]

The question is why would you want to insulate it if it is all running inside the interior of the house? Any heat loss from the ducting is going to end up in the living area of the house. I can see insulating it if it is in the attic.

 

[21acrewoods]

The heat zone comes off the top of a zc fireplace. I have two 90's to get into my basement, then about 20' to back bedroom. I am afraid of too much heat loss at prior to exit point and too much heat loss inside enclosure above fireplace.

 

[jtp10181]

You can't insulate it, read the instructions again. You need either 1" or 2" air space clearance around the B-Vent. The best pipe to use is the Simpson duravent b-vent, that's what the collar in the kit is made for.

With the run you describe the air will be room temp by the time it comes out the other end. The heat zones on the wood units are disappointing at best. Only good luck we have is straight up to the floor above or up and back to the room behind.

 

[CrappieKeith]

Hold the phone and time out.......
N.F.P.A. code says if that it has to be high temp.(2100)degree rated pipe.
N.F.P.A. 211 1-5.2.17.6 if it's a factory built chimney.
If it's a masonry chimney...N.F.P.A. 211 1-5.2.17.6 can be made of bricks,stone with reinforced concrete that is lined with suiteable flue liners as per chapter 4 of this standarnd.


As far as I know any bio mass burner is concidered a high heat furnace.

 

[CrappieKeith]

I am looking to get some 30' of B-vent. Where can I find a good deal on it?
I will be using it for ducting off my Quadra fire 7100. Can I insulate that? if so , with what?

Ducting and venting are 2 different issues. So I hope you mean to say ducting as in moving warm air around your home.
B-vent does not meet code for venting a solid fuel appliance.

 

[webbie]

Yes, many units which have hot air ducts coming off them spec B-Vent for this because it can take the higher temps of "wood hot air". And B-Vent is insulated quite enough as it is (double wall) for handling hot air as it is in this case.

As to where to get it cheap - this stuff is sold in bulk by local Plumbing and Heating wholesale houses who usually sell over the counter also. They will usually offer a steep discount, but if worse come to worse, dig up a friend who is a contractor...he may get an extra 10% off.

As an example, some P&H;supply houses sell over the counter for 30% off the list, while a contractor with a business card or history there may get 40% plus.

 

[stoveguy13]

30 ft is most likely not going to work to well the air will be luke warm it is desinged more for a shor run as jtp said. you may get condesation in the pipe as well on that far of a run it is more of heat dump set up then a real heat trasfer system.

 

[21acrewoods]

The manuel says no more than 40'(of "b-vent"). My plan is to put in a larger cfm fan if it doesn't get the job done the way I am setting it up.
Anyone have personal experience with this zc fireplace and/or setup? maybe with an rsf

 

[jtp10181]

We install lots of 7100FP units. I can tell you almost every one who gets a Heat Zone complains they do not put out enough heat. Especially when they go down.

CrappieKeith, relax, we are talking about the heat zone kits, not the actual fireplace chimney.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

The heat zone comes off the top of a zc fireplace. I have two 90's to get into my basement, then about 20' to back bedroom. I am afraid of too much heat loss at prior to exit point and too much heat loss inside enclosure above fireplace.

i may be misunderstanding this , but do you intend to try to move this heat down and then across to another area? if so , be prepared to have to do some figuring , heat dont like to go down so you will have to presuade it. which sometimes isnt easy.

 

[21acrewoods]

Yes, I do want to move the air down about 5' then horizontal about 20'.How can I do this. It is already half way installed (I didn't get enough pipe).

 

[jtp10181]

Trust me it wont work.... I would just make the run go straight down and end it there.

If you really want to have a shot of it working run the AUX air to the same room at floor level, this might suck some air back from that room causing a neg pressure which would help draw the warm out through the heat zone. Make sure you follow the directions on the heat zone kit and cut down the drop tube. I would recommend cutting it the maximum allowed amount regardless of what it says based on run length. Any time you go down its hard to get anything useful out of it.

 

[21acrewoods]

I did cut the drop tube down to a min. 2" like the manuel says. I was trying to figure out where to take the aux. air. Very good suggestion, it will actually make the run alot easier than where I was thinking of putting it. What do you think about replacing the register fan with an inline fan of higher cfm rate?
Also, I was kinda thinking about tieing the other heat zone kit(maybe without even buying the fan kit) into a return air duct that is going to be repositioned anyway because it is directly above where the fp is setting. Then in the summer when I am running the AC, which is about 2-3 weeks a year, I can just close aux air knob on the fp. and in winter close off the return air register in the wall and have the heat zone duct hooked up to my repositioning adapter that is between the old wall and the new front of my fp.
Great help, please keep er coming!

 

[jtp10181]

CZARCAR, you dont know anything about how this heat zone kit works

21acrewoods, dumping to a return air is not tested and would violate mfg specs

 

[stoveguy13]

I did cut the drop tube down to a min. 2" like the manuel says. I was trying to figure out where to take the aux. air. Very good suggestion, it will actually make the run alot easier than where I was thinking of putting it. What do you think about replacing the register fan with an inline fan of higher cfm rate?
Also, I was kinda thinking about tieing the other heat zone kit(maybe without even buying the fan kit) into a return air duct that is going to be repositioned anyway because it is directly above where the fp is setting. Then in the summer when I am running the AC, which is about 2-3 weeks a year, I can just close aux air knob on the fp. and in winter close off the return air register in the wall and have the heat zone duct hooked up to my repositioning adapter that is between the old wall and the new front of my fp.
Great help, please keep er coming!

Make sure you let your insurance company know you have have made all these mods to the system so if it falls or something goes wrong they wont have to pay anyone for it. it is not a good idea to try and re desing this stuff use the approved tested stuff and do it the right way buy all we are trying to give are experince with it and let you know what has worked for us