Any new stoves with bottom primary air?

[ddahlgren]

http://sbio.vt.edu/about/extension/vtsolar_kiln/

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Highbeam,
You've named the stove (Englander 30) I'm planning to buy. Thanks for the confirmation that I'm headed in the right direction. But I must take minor issue with the "wet/green wood" business. That makes it sound like I'm trying to burn wood that was just cut this year. The wood I had was dry enough to split cleanly and made a high pitch when knocked together. If I could find anyone around here who would sell me 2-year-old wood, I'd buy it. I have one shed that holds around 4 cords, and plan on building another, but money is super tight so getting ahead on wood supplies is tough. Still, as soon as I can I'll be buying "seasoned" wood and holding it a year and a half before burning.

Dennis,
You are defending the Fireview as though it is your brother and I am attacking it. All that matters about the Fireview is that it doesn't work for me, and I know how to build a fire. You aren't offering advice, only criticism, and you haven't understood the problem I've discussed, though others have. I have no problem getting the stove to light. The problem is in how it maintains the fire as the wood burns down, and I think everyone on the forum agrees that the stove is telling me it requires drier wood. All agree, as well, that there are more tolerant stoves on the market, and I plan to buy one. If you look back at my original post, you'll see that my question was whether I can expect to find a new stove that feeds air to the coalbed; I want to avoid having the same problem again. Comments from members indicate that I won't have this much trouble with an Englander. People who are happy with their Fireviews should keep them. But, although this seems to be tantamount to heresy on this forum, yes, I DO want a stove that is less fussy about moisture. Not because I "choose to burn wet wood" or "want to put poor burning fuel in it," but because in the real world wood is variable in quality and heating the house is important.
Adam

Adam, I am not attempting to defend the Fireview as I will do the same for any stove out there! It is a simple fact about burning wood. Your method of testing for dryness, that is, "The wood I had was dry enough to split cleanly and made a high pitch when knocked together." Sorry lad, that is about as poor of a method as I've heard yet. Why? Because wood will split best when it is freshly cut! That does not mean the wood is dry and ready to burn. What is a high pitch? That could have a different meaning to different people but no matter, that is a poor indicator of the wetness or dryness of the wood.

You no doubt will be happy with a new stove and we wish you well with it. Are you planning on selling the Fireview?

 

[n3pro]

I think your missing the intent of the answers Adam. As you said money is tight, they are trying to help you NOT to have to spend even more money on another stove that may or may not solve your problem but use the current stove in the best way in which experience shows work. They are suggestions are based on many years of experience and solving many similar problems.

Just my two cents.

 

[mellow]

Obviously you can't take a joke.

So how about this, I will swap you a brand new NC 30 for your fireview.