Any way to fix this warped Jotul?

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

I have a Jotul 3 TDIC-2
I can not fit the back burn plate.... so I got the new mixing grate whcih was keeping it from fitting... and even that wont fit into place because of warping on the "inner back plate" (which is a discontinued part and nobody has it).

Is there any way I can melt and reform the inner back plate? If not, I suppose I have to use the OLD mixing grate which is warped against the inner back plate.

I like the stove, but I didn't realize how badly it was overfired by the previous owner.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I don't think melting it is an option. I think you're stuck living with the warped pieces, finding a parts stove, or grinding the new pieces to fit. Grinding the new pieces has dangers as underestimating expansion and contraction of the warped pieces could lead to warped and cracked pieces.

 

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

Thank you for the advice.

Hmmm. I would grind the mixing grate, but it it a bit too far out of whack - more than a quarter inch, getting closer to half an inch, and the metal on the grate is only about that wide.

I am surprised that nobody has the part. But yes maybe I can find a junker stove for parts.
If anybody reading this has it, let me know!
Thanks!

 

[JbTech]

No idea on fixing it, but a quick google found this.
No idea if it's the correct part or process to replace it.

Back Burn Plate

 

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

No idea on fixing it, but a quick google found this.
No idea if it's the correct part or process to replace it.

Back Burn Plate

Thank you but I already have the 'back burn plate'.
The discontinued part that I need is the 'inner back plate' part # 102938

 

[ontheneck]

I need both a top baffle #102963 and rear burn plate for my Jotul 3TDIC-2 (1990) stove. The link to Rocky Mountain Stove was helpful as they say they have the back burn plate in stock. But I really need the top baffle - it's badly warped. There was a discussion thread about this exact part here 10 years ago, and the advice then was to contact Jotul. This is my first adventure trying to find parts for my 32-year-old stove. Not having much luck w parts dealers. Jotul website recommends (requires?) contact w local authorized dealer. It's Sunday and that shop isn't open until Tuesday. Any advice about getting that top baffle? Thanks so much.

 

[begreen]

Looks like Woodman's has the parts to make this right. Given the age of the stove, it's time to consider a full rebuild to return it to like-new operation.

Replacement stove parts | Woodman's Parts Plus | Stove Gas Wood Stove Parts

Woodman's Parts Plus offers over 20,000 in stock parts for your wood, coal, gas, oil or pellet unit, as well as barbecues and outdoor power equipment. Over 400 old and current manufacturers, with unique parts and patterns.

www.woodmanspartsplus.com

 

[ontheneck]

Thank you, begreen, for the legwork. You helped me out a ton 5 years ago when I installed a used Hearthstone in my kitchen fireplace myself (a tough job for a neophyte). Woodmans is a great call. Price is 1/3 that of the only other one I was able to locate - Stove King out of Connecticut. Hard to know about quality, but at that price, I'm buying 2. "FULL REBUILD" would require replacement of what other parts? Thanks again.

 

[begreen]

When contacting Woodmans, make sure the parts are specifically for the 3-TDIC. The diagram on their site is for the non-cat 3TD. A full rebuild would require disassembly of the stove and recementing its seams. I would suspect that the primary wearing items are those that get the hottest. the side and back burn plates, the baffle, inner backplate and bypass. Each should be examined closely for warpage and cracks. I haven't rebuilt this stove. Deranged Hermit may have done this rebuild. Woodmans can tell you the most common parts are replaced on this stove.

 

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

The parts diagram in that web link is not exactly the one for the 3TDIC-2 model.
I am attaching the diagram that begreen posted in the past.

But yes, I can confirm that Woodsman's Parts Plus does have the top baffle, because I just bought one a couple months ago.
They have been very good to deal with.

I still have not been able to locate an inner back plate #102938

 

[ontheneck]

When contacting Woodmans, make sure the parts are specifically for the 3-TDIC. The diagram on their site is for the non-cat 3TD. A full rebuild would require disassembly of the stove and recementing its seams. I would suspect that the primary wearing items are those that get the hottest. the side and back burn plates, the baffle, inner backplate and bypass. Each should be examined closely for warpage and cracks. I haven't rebuilt this stove. Deranged Hermit may have done this rebuild. Woodmans can tell you the most common parts are replaced on this stove.

Much thanks AGAIN. Though I'm sure you're right in suggesting it, not gonna take the stove walls apart and re-cement. If I can get the side plates, I'll do that in addition to backplate and baffle.

 

[begreen]

Much thanks AGAIN. Though I'm sure you're right in suggesting it, not gonna take the stove walls apart and re-cement. If I can get the side plates, I'll do that in addition to backplate and baffle.

It's not as bad as it sounds. Once it's stripped-down, it's just a shell. In the least do a really scrupulous check for any air leaks along the seams when the guts are out. In a dark room, take a bright light and shine in on the interior seams while looking for light leaks on the exterior side. This is easier to do with a partner.

 

[ontheneck]

It's not as bad as it sounds. Once it's stripped-down, it's just a shell. In the least do a really scrupulous check for any air leaks along the seams when the guts are out. In a dark room, take a bright light and shine in on the interior seams while looking for light leaks on the exterior side. This is easier to do with a partner.

yeah, that sounds doable, of course. Furnace cement on leaky seams or some other material?

 

[begreen]

A surface smear of furnace/stove cement might hold for a year or two, but it sounds like you want the stove to last a lot longer. That's really only achievable by taking it apart, running a bead of cement down the seam, and putting it back together.

 

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

yeah, that sounds doable, of course. Furnace cement on leaky seams or some other material?

This stove is not difficult to work on at all. It is very intuitive. If you have any experience mechanically with a wrench, I would try it. I took mine apart partially to do some work on it and clean it up. I did not re-cement the whole shell, because it seemed to be tight, and is performing well. If I would have known how easy it is, I would have taken it apart into pieces when I bought it, as it would have made transport much easier.

I bought top baffle and back burn plate from woodsman's and they have been good.
To be honest, it works fine with the caved in top baffle (mine was the same)... but it was interfering with the wood I wanted to load.

Back burn plate is the most commonly worn out component, and it is available online from various sources, though woodsman's is somewhat local for me.

I will probably do a full rebuild in summer.

And somebody please manifest an inner back plate for me! It is a discontinued part. Or an old junk parts stove, i suppose.

 

[ontheneck]

This stove is not difficult to work on at all. It is very intuitive. If you have any experience mechanically with a wrench, I would try it. I took mine apart partially to do some work on it and clean it up. I did not re-cement the whole shell, because it seemed to be tight, and is performing well. If I would have known how easy it is, I would have taken it apart into pieces when I bought it, as it would have made transport much easier.

I bought top baffle and back burn plate from woodsman's and they have been good.
To be honest, it works fine with the caved in top baffle (mine was the same)... but it was interfering with the wood I wanted to load.

Back burn plate is the most commonly worn out component, and it is available online from various sources, though woodsman's is somewhat local for me.

I will probably do a full rebuild in summer.

And somebody please manifest an inner back plate for me! It is a discontinued part. Or an old junk parts stove, i suppose.

Yes, definitely mechanically adept enough.....I took a passing look at the stove's construction today when I was fooling w the plates/baffle but too lazy to go downstairs now. Am I right in saying the sides and back are BOLTED. together? If so, when you took yours apart were these bolts 'breakable' w EasyOut or other lubricant or should I just assume they'll snap and have to be replaced? Also, does furnace cement come in a tube that can be applied w a caulking gun? Thanks so much for this post.

 

[begreen]

I will probably do a full rebuild in summer.

I'll hunt for one for you if you will document the full rebuild with pictures at each stage.

 

[ontheneck]

I'll hunt for one for you if you will document the full rebuild with pictures at each stage.

Great! Ty.

 

[begreen]

Yes, definitely mechanically adept enough.....I took a passing look at the stove's construction today when I was fooling w the plates/baffle but too lazy to go downstairs now. Am I right in saying the sides and back are BOLTED. together? If so, when you took yours apart were these bolts 'breakable' w EasyOut or other lubricant or should I just assume they'll snap and have to be replaced? Also, does furnace cement come in a tube that can be applied w a caulking gun? Thanks so much for this post.

When I rebuilt our F602 I just assumed that some bolts would break. I soaked each one with penetrating oil and let it sit overnight then hit it again in the morning. Hitting the bolt on the head with a hammer can sometimes help break the rust grip on the threads. Then don't try to quickly remove the bolt. Sometimes they come out better if you can slightly loosen it a little, then tighten a skosh, then loosen again. If one breaks, drill it out with an undersized bit, then drill out again with the right sized bit for re-tapping. You can use Rutland high temp furnace and stove cement or better yet use Hearthstone's refractory stove cement. Follow directions for curing.

This sounds complicated but it's not. The F602 is much simpler, but that process, including a couple broken bolts, only took a couple of hours for the rebuild.

(Tip: when reassembling coat bolt threads with high temp never-seez.)

 

[ontheneck]

When I rebuilt our F602 I just assumed that some bolts would break. I soaked each one with penetrating oil and let it sit overnight then hit it again in the morning. Hitting the bolt on the head with a hammer can sometimes help break the rust grip on the threads. Then don't try to quickly remove the bolt. Sometimes they come out better if you can slightly loosen it a little, then tighten a skosh, then loosen again. If one breaks, drill it out with an undersized bit, then drill out again with the right sized bit for re-tapping. You can use Rutland high temp furnace and stove cement or better yet use Hearthstone's refractory stove cement. Follow directions for curing.

This sounds complicated but it's not. The F602 is much simpler, but that process, including a couple broken bolts, only took a couple of hours for the rebuild.

(Tip: when reassembling coat bolt threads with high temp never-seez.)

Thorough and excellent.

 

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

Yes, definitely mechanically adept enough.....I took a passing look at the stove's construction today when I was fooling w the plates/baffle but too lazy to go downstairs now. Am I right in saying the sides and back are BOLTED. together? If so, when you took yours apart were these bolts 'breakable' w EasyOut or other lubricant or should I just assume they'll snap and have to be replaced? Also, does furnace cement come in a tube that can be applied w a caulking gun? Thanks so much for this post.

Yes bolted.
I was lucky in that I did not suffer any broken bolts. I did not take apart the entire thing though.... just the areas I needed to work on. I considered it, but was freezing here (and my furnace problems left by previous owner have been documented on this website) and I just wanted to get it running.

Begreen gave good advice, and for me I had to be mindful of not using excessive force... but rather a very controlled amount of force on the wrench/ratchet. It is the jerking force when it "gives" that generally breaks the bolts. As such, I try not to use too much leverage on the tool. Smooth controlled force with a smooth motion is required. That said, you could get lucky and they all just open freely. Or.... they could all snap off.

I'll hunt for one for you if you will document the full rebuild with pictures at each stage.

You mean an inner back plate?

 

[begreen]

And somebody please manifest an inner back plate for me! It is a discontinued part. Or an old junk parts stove, i suppose.

I checked a couple of good sources. They said that since Jotul stopped manufacturing this part, the only place it may be found is in some company's dusty inventory. How bad is the inner back on your stove? Repairable?

 

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

It is all just warped.

I first got the back burn plate. It won't fit completely properly because the warped mixing grate is interfering.
I got a new mixing grate, but it won't fit because the inner back plate is warped.
So now I have been looking for an inner back plate.

In the meantime, I am using it as is, and it works for the most part.

I have no idea how somebody melted this stove. I can't overfire it even if I tried. It always burns at a moderate range of temperatures, even with the air flow fully open.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

They had a different chimney and wood.

 

[D. Hermit]

Alas, I have never rebuilt a tdic. Im not a fan of the early catalytic 3s and 8s, no parts really left for them anymore it seems.

I checked a couple of good sources. They said that since Jotul stopped manufacturing this part, the only place it may be found is in some company's dusty inventory. How bad is the inner back on your stove? Repairable?

Im looking far and wide for those old companies dusty old Jotul parts inventory. Cash in hand.

But for a good amount of those internals , if they are thicker cast, you can build them up a little with bondo and sandcast new parts. The bondo will help offset the shrinkage of the sand casting.

But to do that I need to start finding old jotuls with good or just cracked internals for cheap and taking them apart. Its a process, but Im working on it.- this is something Woodmans did really well, but I do not think they do it as often these days.