Anyone Have a Jotul F 100 Nordic? Do You Like It?

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Your bonus room may be considered a "bedroom" by the local authorities. I think it's based on septic code, but any room that can be private and has access to a bathroom is considered a "bedroom" around here - whether it's used for that or not. Just a thought...
 
Your bonus room may be considered a "bedroom" by the local authorities. I think it's based on septic code, but any room that can be private and has access to a bathroom is considered a "bedroom" around here - whether it's used for that or not. Just a thought...

Not a problem. Wood stoves are allowed in bedrooms here.
 
Twelve to fourteen feet.

That's less than most manufacturers recommend. You will need a stove that drafts easily or you will have problems with smoke going back into the room, difficult start-ups, etc. PE stoves are usually ok with shorter flues (I have the PE Super on a 13 ft liner with great draft), while Napoleon stoves are more prone to have problems when the draft is inadequate.

I am not sure anyone has mentioned it yet, so how is your wood supply? Any stove will need dry wood that has been split and stacked usually for 2 to 3 years. Did you take care of that already?

And just a suggestion: You state this stove is an important decision for you, so why not take your time and learn a bit more about the available options including the difference between a secondary burn and a catalytic stove? Heating season is almost over which means you could take the entire spring and summer to settle on the best unit for your needs. Just a thought.
 
Twelve to fourteen feet.

Two feet can make a major difference. The Jotul F3CB will work ok on 12', though 14' would be much better. The Jotul F400 is larger, but it has a shallow firebox and a large door. This combo can lead to smoke spillage on loading with a shorter chimney. Most Napoleon stoves seem to want at least 16ft of chimney due to the secondary passages construction. My preference would be the larger Pacific Energy T4, Woodstock Keystone or the Blaze King Ashford 20 for longer burn times.
 
That's less than most manufacturers recommend. You will need a stove that drafts easily or you will have problems with smoke going back into the room, difficult start-ups, etc. PE stoves are usually ok with shorter flues (I have the PE Super on a 13 ft liner with great draft), while Napoleon stoves are more prone to have problems when the draft is inadequate.

I am not sure anyone has mentioned it yet, so how is your wood supply? Any stove will need dry wood that has been split and stacked usually for 2 to 3 years. Did you take care of that already?

And just a suggestion: You state this stove is an important decision for you, so why not take your time and learn a bit more about the available options including the difference between a secondary burn and a catalytic stove? Heating season is almost over which means you could take the entire spring and summer to settle on the best unit for your needs. Just a thought.


We are working with a well known installer with 25 years experience so we are very comfortable with his suggestions and reputation. We have a good supply of wood and have four acres of woods we can access if push comes to shove.
 
Two feet can make a major difference. The Jotul F3CB will work ok on 12', though 14' would be much better. The Jotul F400 is larger, but it has a shallow firebox and a large door. This combo can lead to smoke spillage on loading with a shorter chimney. Most Napoleon stoves seem to want at least 16ft of chimney due to the secondary passages construction. My preference would be the larger Pacific Energy T4, Woodstock Keystone or the Blaze King Ashford 20 for longer burn times.

OK, we'll consider this information. Thanks
 
I should add that I would go with the Jotul F3CB before going with the VC Intrepid II. The Jotul is easier to use, takes a bit longer wood, has much lower maintenance and will burn as long or longer than the Intrepid. Another nice stove to consider would be the Morso 2110.
 
In the Woodstock line the Fireview would also work. It needs 14' of chimney but matches up really well speck wise with the Pacific Energy T4. My wife absolutely loves our Fireview! We decided it is to small to heat the whole house from our basement so just we replaced it with a rebuilt PE summit. Now she is talking about having me put it in the living room upstairs because she can't seem to part with it. She thinks it looks more like a piece of furniture then a wood stove and really, I mean really, likes the soft heat it puts out.

huauqui

PS it just breaks my heart to have her want a second stove upstairs, okay not really >>
 
I should add that I would go with the Jotul F3CB before going with the VC Intrepid II. The Jotul is easier to use, takes a bit longer wood, has much lower maintenance and will burn as long or longer than the Intrepid. Another nice stove to consider would be the Morso 2110.

I think I would prefer a Jotul stove myself over the VC.
 
In the Woodstock line the Fireview would also work. It needs 14' of chimney but matches up really well speck wise with the Pacific Energy T4. My wife absolutely loves our Fireview! We decided it is to small to heat the whole house from our basement so just we replaced it with a rebuilt PE summit. Now she is talking about having me put it in the living room upstairs because she can't seem to part with it. She thinks it looks more like a piece of furniture then a wood stove and really, I mean really, likes the soft heat it puts out.

huauqui

PS it just breaks my heart to have her want a second stove upstairs, okay not really >>


This morning my husband told me he found the Fireview you're talking about and was very impressed with the great reviews. My only concern is...could the stone ever crack? Apparently that's not a problem because the reviews are so glowing. Still, I have to ask those who know about these things. I also would prefer a stove without the catalytic addition. It seems more trouble than it's worth, though we've been told we can take it out. But why pay for something we probably won't use?
 
Gin,
Thanks for all the thoughtful questions. I am sure those who know much more about these stoves will chime in but I will give my two cents worth.

Concerning cracking on a soapstone stove, I have seen threads talking about cracked soapstone and so I do know it is possible. In most of those cases it was not an issue for usability, they were very hair line cracks that did not seem to effect ether safety or usability. Woodstock has a great reputation for having parts and pieces to fix in stock and they are always very reasonable compared to most other manufacturers. (Again someone with more experience needs to chime in on this one please.) Here is a link that shows the construction of the stove in a "slide show" type format , with that you can see how it is very possible to repair should it need it. As with any stove that is not a welded steel box stove it will need occasional maintenance the F100/400/500 etc.. are this type of stove as well since it is bolted together from cast iron panels and not welded. This means, when necessary, you would need reseal or possibly disassemble, clean, and reseal the pieces with furnace cement to maintain good burn characteristics and safety (possibly 7-10 years if used regularly, longer if it is only used occasionally, shorter if it is used poorly or overfired regularly or severely) Don't let the thought of that type of maintenance scare you away, all new stoves will require regular maintenance. These are a big investment and are really worth it for what they can give you back.

Concerning the catalytic versus secondary combustion tubes. I will try to simply answer your question about usability I am not trying to say which is the better. Here is my rough attempt at describing the basic burn and use of these stoves.

On a Jotul F100 style stove, as I understand it, you have one lever that controls the primary air coming in the stove. The Fireview has both a by pass lever and an air control lever, the bypass gives the gasses a path to go straight up the chimney until they reach a temp that will cause the cat to engage.

To load the Jotul you open the primary air fully put in wood close the door and allow the fire to fully catch/engulf the wood. After wood is fully engaged you begin lowering the primary air incrementally, with time between changes ranging between 5 and 15 minutes, until you reach desired temperatures/settings. Can take between 15 minutes and an hour depending on wether the stove was cold or the amount of coals you have etc...

On the Fireview you open the bypass then open the air control fully put in wood close the door and allow the fire to fully catch/engulf the wood and or until the stove top hits about 250 degrees and the wood is fully engaged. Then you close the bypass and begin lowering the primary air intake. On ours we lower the primary from full to about 2 almost immediately (marks are 0-4 on the lever) then in 3-5 minutes we close it down to where we run it which is about .75 and walk away. Can take between 15 minutes and an hour depending on stove conditions amount of coals etc...

Both stoves once to running temp with good coals are capable of about 15 minutes from opening the door and having shut everything down and walking away.

On ether stove if you want to adjust the heat output you will need to mess with the air, if you want more of a fire show you will need to open the air more or less depending on the stove and where the stove is at in the burn cycle. If my experience with cast iron versus soapstone holds true for you then the following is probably correct. The Jotul will put off heat quicker but will also be more apt to have heavy temp swings in the room(s) during the burn cycle and will require a little more playing to maintain a consistent temp. The Fireview will warm up slower but will keep the room(s) a more constant heat without as much playing with air controls on the stove during the burn cycle.

Something I have learned recently is that all the new EPA approved stoves require more messing around then our old smoke dragons did. But the new stoves also require less wood to do the same amount of heating and make much less ugly black smoke out the chimneys.

You mentioned taking the cat out of a fireview, I would not recommend modifying any EPA stove by removing parts such as baffles in the Jotul style or the Catalytic in a cat stove. At the very least they would be very inefficient and I can almost guarantee they would be dangerous.

Long term running costs, I just rebuilt a Pacific Energy Summit and can see that it will possibly cost me more money long term to keep it running then my catalytic fireview. Cats last between 4-8 years being burnt well and cleaned regularly, I believe the PE summit will require a new baffle about as often and the baffle is actually more money then a new cat for the fireview so go figure.

Cleaning, it takes me almost exactly the same amount of time to clean out my fireview then cleaning the Summit it is designed so well it makes cleaning the cat simple. My wife and I absolutely love the look of the Jotul cast iron stoves they are truly beautiful. We also love the look of the fireview which looks more like a piece of furniture then a wood stove. You can't go wrong with ether stove, they both burn well and they both will do the job. We found when we first put a stove in years ago that we burnt it way more then we initially thought we would because we just loved it. I bet you will find the same thing.

I would really pay attention to begreens suggestions on stove size for your space. The PE T4 is gorgeous and a great stove, the Fireview and Keystone are as well and the Jotul F45 which is a welded steel box with cast panels covering it (like the T4) and the F400 cast iron stove are the same general size and are beautiful stoves with huge followings too. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the really good brands as long as it is sized correctly.

Well this ended up being overly long, I hope you can find some good in it. Any new stove will have a learning curve but once learned it will provide you with much enjoyment and great heat for many many years.

huauqui
 
Any stove can get damaged with abuse. Typically that would be in the form of overfiring. The most common cause is one getting distracted and leaving the air control wide open. Stoves that are out of sight and mind like in a basement see more of this problem. I recommend using a timer for any stove to remind you to turn down the air.

FWIW, the Intrepid II is also a catalytic stove. It would not make sense to burn in this Fireview with the catalyst out. I would be concerned that this also might potentially overheat the top of the stove. Woodstock support is excellent. If you have questions, give them a call.

huauqui, rebuilding a Summit every 6-8 yrs is not normal. Most steel stoves go 15-20 yrs with just minor upkeep if they are run properly. Our T6 is finishing season 7 and still on original firebrick and parts. The baffle and rails are fine. The only thing I intend to do this summer is re-level the door.
 
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begreen, I am very glad to hear that, I keep seeing people with warped baffles and needing to replace them so just thought that might be normal wear and tear. I am sure enjoying the Summit, will be adding a new thread on the rebuild and temp instal to get me through to summer. Thanks for the info.
 
We see the anomalies and problems here more often then not. That's why a lot of people come to the forum in the first place. The vast majority of stoves live a more humdrum life of steady service. FWIW, I fully expect our baffle to last another decade.
 
Gin,
Thanks for all the thoughtful questions. I am sure those who know much more about these stoves will chime in but I will give my two cents worth.

Concerning cracking on a soapstone stove, I have seen threads talking about cracked soapstone and so I do know it is possible. In most of those cases it was not an issue for usability, they were very hair line cracks that did not seem to effect ether safety or usability. Woodstock has a great reputation for having parts and pieces to fix in stock and they are always very reasonable compared to most other manufacturers. (Again someone with more experience needs to chime in on this one please.) Here is a link that shows the construction of the stove in a "slide show" type format , with that you can see how it is very possible to repair should it need it. As with any stove that is not a welded steel box stove it will need occasional maintenance the F100/400/500 etc.. are this type of stove as well since it is bolted together from cast iron panels and not welded. This means, when necessary, you would need reseal or possibly disassemble, clean, and reseal the pieces with furnace cement to maintain good burn characteristics and safety (possibly 7-10 years if used regularly, longer if it is only used occasionally, shorter if it is used poorly or overfired regularly or severely) Don't let the thought of that type of maintenance scare you away, all new stoves will require regular maintenance. These are a big investment and are really worth it for what they can give you back.

Concerning the catalytic versus secondary combustion tubes. I will try to simply answer your question about usability I am not trying to say which is the better. Here is my rough attempt at describing the basic burn and use of these stoves.

On a Jotul F100 style stove, as I understand it, you have one lever that controls the primary air coming in the stove. The Fireview has both a by pass lever and an air control lever, the bypass gives the gasses a path to go straight up the chimney until they reach a temp that will cause the cat to engage.

To load the Jotul you open the primary air fully put in wood close the door and allow the fire to fully catch/engulf the wood. After wood is fully engaged you begin lowering the primary air incrementally, with time between changes ranging between 5 and 15 minutes, until you reach desired temperatures/settings. Can take between 15 minutes and an hour depending on wether the stove was cold or the amount of coals you have etc...

On the Fireview you open the bypass then open the air control fully put in wood close the door and allow the fire to fully catch/engulf the wood and or until the stove top hits about 250 degrees and the wood is fully engaged. Then you close the bypass and begin lowering the primary air intake. On ours we lower the primary from full to about 2 almost immediately (marks are 0-4 on the lever) then in 3-5 minutes we close it down to where we run it which is about .75 and walk away. Can take between 15 minutes and an hour depending on stove conditions amount of coals etc...

Both stoves once to running temp with good coals are capable of about 15 minutes from opening the door and having shut everything down and walking away.

On ether stove if you want to adjust the heat output you will need to mess with the air, if you want more of a fire show you will need to open the air more or less depending on the stove and where the stove is at in the burn cycle. If my experience with cast iron versus soapstone holds true for you then the following is probably correct. The Jotul will put off heat quicker but will also be more apt to have heavy temp swings in the room(s) during the burn cycle and will require a little more playing to maintain a consistent temp. The Fireview will warm up slower but will keep the room(s) a more constant heat without as much playing with air controls on the stove during the burn cycle.

Something I have learned recently is that all the new EPA approved stoves require more messing around then our old smoke dragons did. But the new stoves also require less wood to do the same amount of heating and make much less ugly black smoke out the chimneys.

You mentioned taking the cat out of a fireview, I would not recommend modifying any EPA stove by removing parts such as baffles in the Jotul style or the Catalytic in a cat stove. At the very least they would be very inefficient and I can almost guarantee they would be dangerous.

Long term running costs, I just rebuilt a Pacific Energy Summit and can see that it will possibly cost me more money long term to keep it running then my catalytic fireview. Cats last between 4-8 years being burnt well and cleaned regularly, I believe the PE summit will require a new baffle about as often and the baffle is actually more money then a new cat for the fireview so go figure.

Cleaning, it takes me almost exactly the same amount of time to clean out my fireview then cleaning the Summit it is designed so well it makes cleaning the cat simple. My wife and I absolutely love the look of the Jotul cast iron stoves they are truly beautiful. We also love the look of the fireview which looks more like a piece of furniture then a wood stove. You can't go wrong with ether stove, they both burn well and they both will do the job. We found when we first put a stove in years ago that we burnt it way more then we initially thought we would because we just loved it. I bet you will find the same thing.

I would really pay attention to begreens suggestions on stove size for your space. The PE T4 is gorgeous and a great stove, the Fireview and Keystone are as well and the Jotul F45 which is a welded steel box with cast panels covering it (like the T4) and the F400 cast iron stove are the same general size and are beautiful stoves with huge followings too. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the really good brands as long as it is sized correctly.

Well this ended up being overly long, I hope you can find some good in it. Any new stove will have a learning curve but once learned it will provide you with much enjoyment and great heat for many many years.

huauqui

Thank you for this very informative post. I truly appreciate all the time you, bgreen and others have put into helping us with this purchase. My husband has promised to re-read everything and take note of the suggestions. We're leaning toward the Fireview...it is so beautiful, but I'll be happy with the Jotul as well. I feel like we can't go wrong with either one. We have another installer coming end of next week (we always get at least two quotes) and I'm interested in getting his thoughts as well. When we get several people saying the same thing, it's a good indication that we are on the right track.
 
If you decide on the Fireview you will probably need an independent installer without connection to a stove shop. It's unlikely that you will find an endorsement because Woodstock only sells direct. Certified independent installers can be found by typing in your zipcode here:
www.csia.org
www.ncsg.org
 
If you decide on the Fireview you will probably need an independent installer without connection to a stove shop. It's unlikely that you will find an endorsement because Woodstock only sells direct. Certified independent installers can be found by typing in your zipcode here:
www.csia.org
www.ncsg.org

Yes, we have spoken to the Woodstock people already and they will deliver the stove to a lumber yard or other place with a dock. We worked with a local lumber yard when we built our house so I'm pretty sure they will let us deliver there. So, it's a matter of making the final decision.
 
Just noticing that Backwoods Savage has not chimed in here (Firewiew owner and forum veteran). Or posted for a while. Hope things are ok. Gin if you can find his past threads here - he is almost evangelistic about (1) Woodstock and the Fireview and (2) dry seasoned firewood.
 
Just noticing that Backwoods Savage has not chimed in here (Firewiew owner and forum veteran). Or posted for a while. Hope things are ok. Gin if you can find his past threads here - he is almost evangelistic about (1) Woodstock and the Fireview and (2) dry seasoned firewood.


OK thanks for the heads up.
 
I have a new Jotul F100 and I am feeling like a flunky. This is my first stove.
The installer told me I did not need to do a break in - tho I was pretty sure I had read here that I did. I listened to the installer and kept it running the first couple of days. Did I do any damage? Oh, the curing smell was terrible.

I have a Condar Stove Top thermometer. The installer told me to put it on the stove pipe - tho it clearly says Stove TOP. When if failed to reach temperature, I looked at the packaging, and moved it to the side. It does seem to reach temperature on the side, not on the top. It never goes beyond around 500 - even with damper/flue thing wide open. Any time I try to lower it, the fire goes out. :-(

Last night I tried to stuff the little stove before bed. My bad. I knocked the thing loose on the top - the second burner? Midnight. Seemed like it was getting smoky inside, and I got nervous, so called the fire department. They fit it back in, and said "that's not going anywhere", and when I pointed out that it didn't look like it was seated correctly, the fire man said to wait until it cooled the next day and work on it. I did, and think I got it right. Still, barely reaching temperature.

I'm frustrated. Is it the wood? They said it was seasoned. I'm such a newbie, I don't know. I've been splitting it and using smaller pieces. Bringing in a day's worth and trying to dry it out.
And having been reading this thread, I wonder if I shouldn't have shopped a bit more... My home is smallish - 1400 sq. ft, and I figured I didn't need to heat the whole house - but this is sad.
 
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The F100 is a small stove and just an area heater, not a whole house heater unless the house is small. It will not do an overnight burn. The firebox is too small. Don't try to overstuff it with wood.

The wood may be poorly seasoned. Unfortunately due to the time it takes, it's rare to get truly seasoned wood from a wood seller. You might try adding some known dry wood to your mix of firewood. If you can find some clean 2x4 cut offs from a construction project, split them in half and add about 4 of those splits to the wood in the stove and see if that helps it burn hotter.
 
I have a new Jotul F100 and I am feeling like a flunky. This is my first stove.
The installer told me I did not need to do a break in - tho I was pretty sure I had read here that I did. I listened to the installer and kept it running the first couple of days. Did I do any damage?

I don't know about the F100, but my F55 manual had very specific instructions on how to do the break-in. I would ask the dealer why I didn't have to follow the manufacturer's instructions. ;?
 
Thank you begreen and Knots. Knots, the installer was separate from the dealer - my bad for listening to the installer. We set the stove up and wanted to do a test run to make sure it was working properly before they left. I 'should' have read the manual rather than listening to Mr. Experienced... I don't know if there is a difference between cast iron and metal with regard to break-ins - expansion/contraction. I just hope I've not done any irreparable damage...
Also, is there such a thing as a thermometer for cast iron versus steel/metal? I've wondered if that has anything to do with the stove temp readings? I think more likely it is the condition of the wood. Thanks again Friends!
Hey, I'm also thinking of getting the https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&ipp=48&Ntt=kindling. Is this an unnecessary expense? Do I just need to get proficient with axe?