Anyone have experience with the "damper sealing kit" from Chimney Liner Depot?

[gibson]

Just want to get any opinions out there of people that may have used one of these. Seems like a solution to building a block off plate from scratch. I am installing myself, with help, and this seems like it might save a lot of time and aggravation for $67.

Would love to hear some opinions.

Thanks!

http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=54

 

[Shane]

Seems like it would work so long as you don't have to remove the damper frame to get your liner to connect to your insert. Personally I'd probably price out material and see if making one from scratch is more economical.

 

[04RevX]

What are the pros and cons for something like this vs. going with a liner all the way to daylight? This is def a cheaper alternative than a liner and if its still safe I would rather go with something like this.

 

[BrotherBart]

What are the pros and cons for something like this vs. going with a liner all the way to daylight? This is def a cheaper alternative than a liner and if its still safe I would rather go with something like this.

If you don't line it all the way to the top you get the honor of moving the stove out and taking that blocking plate out every time to clean the chimney.

 

[04RevX]

What are the pros and cons for something like this vs. going with a liner all the way to daylight? This is def a cheaper alternative than a liner and if its still safe I would rather go with something like this.

If you don't line it all the way to the top you get the honor of moving the stove out and taking that blocking plate out every time to clean the chimney.

Hmmm...don't think I want to do that!

 

[BrotherBart]

Yeah a full liner is the only thing that makes sense these days. The cost isn't much more and the improved draft/burn of the stove coupled with the ease of cleaning is worth at least 10X the difference in cost.

Cleaning both of my liners is a 30 minute job. Before the liners it was an all day job. And the stoves burn many times better with no concerns about CO or smoke leakage from the chimneys into the house.

Line it.

 

[gibson]

OP here. I have every intention of lining the chimney. What I would like to avoid is insulating the liner. I am figuring/ hoping a 25 ft lined flue, on a 50% exterior chimney, with a blockoff at the damper will do the job. If I am lining the chimney, is the blockoff plate a waste?

 

[Jerry_NJ]

You need the insulation on an external masonry chimney to help the liner stay hot during low fire times, e.g., overnight burns. As the chimney is sealed at the top when a full liner is used, there is little benefit, if any, from installing a block-off plate at the old damer, besides the links says: "your length of oval relining pipe. " So who has an oval relining pipe? Mine is a 6" round pipe and that's all I have ever heard of for lining.

 

[gibson]

Ok. But what is the heat loss up the chimney, even if it is insulated and of course capped at the top, when the insert is not running? My father in law, who will be helping with the install, is an old school heat freak who is paranoid about the heat going behind the insert and up the flue. I have an 8x13 flue and am thinking about snags when snaking that 6" liner plus insulation down. I see 1 or 2 bulges of mortar that may be a problem. I have a few ideas on how to knock those suckers out before I drop the liner. None of them will likely work, but I have ideas, nonetheless... I see that 7" diameter insulated tube wrapped in metal netting being totally "snagalicious".

 

[Jerry_NJ]

As you know, with the masonry chimney sealed at the top there will be no convection flow of hot air, the main loss due to damper problems. There will always be heat loss hot-to-cold in the walls and the chimney being brick/stone/mortar will have a low thermal resistance. So you'll cut losses some by blocking and insulating at the fireplace damper. This has next to nothing to do with the reason for insulating the liner, again that is to keep it at a high temperature, low creosote formation, even when the fire is "choked down" to a low/long burn rate. The damper block will do nothing for that, I believe.