If you DO remove the top, when you re-install, you really don't need to re-fasten the top.
It's gasketed at the seams & the weight of it will keep it from moving. This info is right
out of the mouth of a long-time Jotul Rep, & I wouldn't hesistate to take his advice.
I may have jammed a log in there and bent up the first manifold. Now my burners are slightly tilted and my baffle is loose.What do you mean by "baffle work"? I am considering an Oslo because I am told they don't need fiddling with.
Wouldn't the screws line me up for that? Or are you referring to not sitting on the gasket properly?+1. Once the top is in place view it carefully from the front and from the side to be sure that it is sitting level and squarely on the stove body. If it is just a little off, air will leak. This can create uneven burning.
I am not talking about the access oval on top. I am talking about taking the whole top off of the stove.I've been running mine without bolts installed on the top or the griddle going on three seasons now.
Sounds good. But I may sleep better knowing the screws are snugged up a bit.If you DO remove the top, when you re-install, you really don't need to re-fasten the top.
It's gasketed at the seams & the weight of it will keep it from moving. This info is right
out of the mouth of a long-time Jotul Rep, & I wouldn't hesistate to take his advice.
Thanks for the info!I've done it a few times. It's real easy, if I remember right, it has one bolt in the back and 2 in the front. You will need to remove the stove pipe, so you can reach in through flue collar. It is gasketed, so no worries with re-cementing. They are 10mm bolts by the way.
I realized that. Reread my response.I am not talking about the access oval on top. I am talking about taking the whole top off of the stove.
I did but it was to late! already jumped the gun and wrote my reply. Thanks for the info!I realized that. Reread my response.
Wouldn't the screws line me up for that? Or are you referring to not sitting on the gasket properly?
I had the screws lined up, but found out very quickly that just having the screws lined up does not equate to a properly seated gasket. Lit the stove and watched the flames going by through the gasket. The funny thing is prior to that a technician from the stove shop that I had out to make a repair had seated the prior top wrong and I thought I had warped the top (very long story, but I digress). So, be sure to seat that top properly.Wouldn't the screws line me up for that? Or are you referring to not sitting on the gasket properly?
Thanks for that info MossyI just took the top off our Oslo and I was originally thinking I needed pull the vent pipe from the collar. Since I removed the oval plate bolts during the install I just lifted it off as I do when I clean the rear vent connecting pipe and was quite surprised at how accesible the rear bolt was without needing to disconnect the pipe. IIRC, a 10mm ratcheting combo works beautifully.
I just removed the three bolts and lifted the top off. I had to replace my vermiculite baffle from bumping it too hard last season. After vaccuming off the mating surfaces and the gasket, I carefully set it back onto the box and made sure everything was lined up, equally spaced, etc. I ran an incense stick around the top edge and she's tight as before.
Ready to assemble. I assume I can use Rutland stove cement to seal the manifold to the stove. Do you have any idea what they use to seal the two pieces of manifold together?. It has a whitish color and by the drips inside from Jotul it almost looks like it had the consistency of glue or caulk.+1. Once the top is in place view it carefully from the front and from the side to be sure that it is sitting level and squarely on the stove body. If it is just a little off, air will leak. This can create uneven burning.
I am doing it right now. Pull the stove out. Take the smoke collar off the back (2 screws and nut). Chances are if you are doing this the original baffle broke. Check, it is warrantied. Jotul will give you the baffle for free but not the labor. But no problem. There are two hex bolts #10 in the front and one in the back. Start with the back if you want. Push the baffle forward as far as you can get it so you can reach the bolt. Feel for it. It isn't hard. Put a #10 hex socket on it and unscrew it. Open the front door and push the baffle back. Each side of the front there is the same configuration. Find the bolt and unscrew it; each one. Lift the top off. Check the gasket, you might want to replace it but it isn't really necessary because there is no use there, like the front door or side door. That is it. Pull off the old baffle and place the new one on top of the secondary burn tubes. While it is open you may want to do some routine maintenance, sanding. filing etc. Check everything before you put it back together. Snug the bolts down but you don't have to over do it. Be sure the top doesn't move and you have a snug fit. Need more info, get my private email from my profile and send me a note. I'll write back or call you. I'm in Westport, MA.Need to do some baffle work. Any tips?
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