Appalachian 36 BW dirty glass

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Lincoln's Father

New Member
Nov 27, 2018
1
Kentucky
So I'm new to Hearth.com and fairly new to my wood insert. I grew up with a wood insert but we didn't have one with a catalytic combuster. I have an Appalachian 36bw that has the combuster. I'm still trying to figure out how to exactly work it. I've bought the stove used so I'm hoping the combuster is still working. I've been reading the manual and have ordered a catalytic probe to test the combuster. (please let me know if there is something else i need to do) Also, I have not yet installed a liner. A say all of this because I do not how it is effecting the problem I'm having.

My glass is getting very black and coated very heavily. So much so that hardly anything works to clean it. I've tried vinegar, I've tried ash and water. I used the rutland creosote in the stove, not on the glass directly, and this is what helped get it clean. But as soon as the next burn it was back to the way it was. I haven't tried the rutland conditioner. But I wanted to make sure that when I do clean the glass again, that I won't continue to have the same problem.

So what I usually do is I start with bypassing the combuster. I get the fire started and leave the door opened a crack and the damper fully opened. After about 5 minutes I close the door. After about 15-20 minutes I will close the damper 1/4 of the way. If I feel the stove has gotten hot enough I will engage the combuster. According to what I've read you are not suppose to engage the combuster until the stove has reached 500 degrees Fahrenheit, so I have ordered an IR gun. So please let me know if there is anything that I'm doing wrong or something I can do differently.
 
Are you saying that the insert is just slammed into the fireplace opening with no connection to the flue? If so, that is the issue and it is not allowed. The insert needs a 6" stainless steel liner - after the chimney is thoroughly cleaned. Without a liner the gunk you are seeing on the stove window is also accumulating on the chimney walls. A liner will help the stove draft properly and burn hotter.
 
May as well add a moisture meter to your list. Sounds like it would not hurt to check your fuel. How much seasoning time is on your wood? Round up a operators manual also.
 
You need liner and preferably insulated one. I used to have my glass dirty(non cat insert). It was combination of wet wood, choking the air too much and loading too close to the the glass. Now even if my glass gets dirty because log rolled off on the glass (E-W loading shallow box) I can clean it up to 95% clean with a hot burn. But like @begreen said without liner you won’t be able to run your stove properly.
 
May as well add a moisture meter to your list. Sounds like it would not hurt to check your fuel. How much seasoning time is on your wood? Round up a operators manual also.
Website says 8" liner..link to the manual wouldn't open for me.
At the very least, you need a direct-connect with block-off plate, until you are able to get a full liner all the way up. With the "slip-in" aka slammer install, volatile gasses can build up in the fireplace and smoke chamber, and ignite explosively when you open the stove door which supplies oxygen. _g
http://www.appalachianstove.com/gas-stoves.php/wood-stoves-36-bw.php
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The Rutland products do work very well. Check what your owner's manual recommends. Mine just recommends regular glass cleaner and using ash to remove any build-up.

But, I have both the Rutland spray and cream squeeze bottle since the glass would get dirty with my previous insert. I spray on a paper towel first, then finish with the cream. The doors on my new insert stay a lot cleaner than my old insert.

https://www.rutland.com/product/93/paints-polishes--cleaners
 
You'll have to check into it but I think the Rutland Creo cleaner might be bad for the combustor..
 
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Good point. I only have secondary burn tubes on my Lopi.
 
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