Ashford 25 Advice

[Kylefhasvc]

New here! Not sure how this forum works. Or if I need to start a new thread But I just had a BK Ashford 25 installed last month and love it!

However. Couple things I’m not liking or am struggling with.

The door doesn’t stay open when loading. You can open it all the way to its max and it’ll slowly swing closed. The unit is level so I know it’s not that. I have a 3rd degree burn on my bicep to show for it trying to load it at 2 am in the dark. Is there an adjustment I can make to this.

Secondly. The bypass door doesn’t shut all the way with out slamming the rod multiple times. I had no idea it recessed back behind the face plate till it happened on accident. My burn times improved significantly after figuring this out but it almost acts like something is pushing back against it.

3rd. If I use the air control at all the door smokes out severely in the bottom corners especially in the hinge side I’ve adjusted the door to tighten the gasket and it helped a bit on the latch side the door came from the installer with probably a 1/4 gap when latched and I had smoke and flames coming out on first fire

Last thing. The latch is a mother f’r to open and close its super tight
Even when not trying to shut the door just operating the latch up and down. Do I need to lube something? Use graphite or what? The latch bar itself has a slight bow to it and has since installed.the installer said this was normal and the latch would break in but hasn’t.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

 

[begreen]

Something sounds wrong with the door, that is a host of issues with a new stove. Has the dealer been out to help you with this?

 

[stoveliker]

okay, let me post here what I posted on the other thread (where I think the post of the OP will be removed soon as it deserves its own thread).

My door does not slowly close - and I have not even checked whether the stove is exactly level.

The door gasket leaking is a serious issue. That needs to be resolved so that it passes the dollar bill test (stick a bill between gasket and stove body, close the door, pull out the bill - it should have some resistance). Otherwise too much air comes in, wasting efficiency, endangering the cat, and leading to less control over the fire.

I think your installer needs to come in to do this (door leaking) AND the bypass lever thing right. You don't want to bang on a hot stove - nor should you be needing to.

I hope that @BKVP can provide suggestions for the door slowly closing issue (given that the insert is level).

 

[Kylefhasvc]

Unfortunately they have been out to help multiple times in regards to the installation of the flue the first few days so im not really excited about calling for anything else 😂

I’m thinking there is a problem with the door as well. If I turn the air control down where the flames go out I’ll get mini like explosions I’m guessing air is leaking somewhere. I’ve done the dollar bill test though

Something sounds wrong with the door, that is a host of issues with a new stove. Has the dealer been out to help you with this?

 

[begreen]

I’m thinking there is a problem with the door as well. If I turn the air control down where the flames go out I’ll get mini like explosions I’m guessing air is leaking somewhere. I’ve done the dollar bill test though

That could be other things like the draft being weak, maybe due to warm outside temps or a short flue liner? Or it can be caused by burning wood that isn't fully seasoned.

 

[Kylefhasvc]

okay, let me post here what I posted on the other thread (where I think the post of the OP will be removed soon as it deserves its own thread).

My door does not slowly close - and I have not even checked whether the stove is exactly level.

The door gasket leaking is a serious issue. That needs to be resolved so that it passes the dollar bill test (stick a bill between gasket and stove body, close the door, pull out the bill - it should have some resistance). Otherwise too much air comes in, wasting efficiency, endangering the cat, and leading to less control over the fire.

I think your installer needs to come in to do this (door leaking) AND the bypass lever thing right. You don't want to bang on a hot stove - nor should you be needing to.

I hope that @BKVP can provide suggestions for the door slowly closing issue (given that the insert is level).

That could be other things like the draft being weak, maybe due to warm outside temps or a short flue liner? Or it can be caused by burning wood that isn't fully seasoned.

The flue length is 14.5 feet. They told me that was perfect for draft on this stove and I usually light it when it’s below 45 degrees out here. My wood is oak and comes in at 14.7% on my little Amazon moisture meter

 

[begreen]

comes in at 14.7% on my little Amazon moisture meter

15 ft is the minimum recommended height and 45º is cold enough for decent draft. Does the stove respond better if a nearby window is cracked open an inch?

How is the wood being tested? Has it been resplit and tested in the center of the freshly exposed face of wood?

 

[Kylefhasvc]

15 ft is the minimum recommended height and 45º is cold enough for decent draft. How is the wood being tested? Has it been resplit and tested in the center of the freshly exposed face of wood?

I haven’t resplit it and tried but I will tomorrow

 

[begreen]

Wood dries from the outside, in. It can test great on the outside and still be damp in the core.

When you say mini-explosions, how strong are they? Enough to push smoke out of the stove or more like little burst of flame? You might be close to good burning, but need to open up the thermostat a little more. It may be that the draft and stove are at the stall point where the fire is not getting enough air.

 

[Kylefhasvc]

Wood dries from the outside, in. It can test great on the outside and still be damp in the core.

When you say mini-explosions, how strong are they? Enough to push smoke out of the stove or more like little burst of flame? You might be close to good burning, but need to open up the thermostat a little more. It may be that the draft and stove are at the stall point where the fire is not getting enough air.

It’s like a burst of flame with a big wooshing sound. I haven’t seen smoke come out of the doors though. It happens when the CAT is really active (which is surprisingly hard to do)

 

[begreen]

It’s like a burst of flame with a big wooshing sound. I haven’t seen smoke come out of the doors though. It happens when the CAT is really active (which is surprisingly hard to do)

The difficulty in getting the cat active is another clue of a possible issue with the wood. Do you have some 2x4 scraps? If so, try adding them to a load.

 

[Kylefhasvc]

The difficulty in getting the cat active is another clue of a possible issue with the wood. Do you have some 2x4 scraps? If so, try adding them to a load.

Ok. I’ll try that as soon as it burns down. I also can’t reload while flames are present. Smokes out the house if I open the door enough to get my arm in regardless of how long I try to develop draft in the stove

 

[Kylefhasvc]

The difficulty in getting the cat active is another clue of a possible issue with the wood. Do you have some 2x4 scraps? If so, try adding them to a load.

Ok. I’ll try that as soon as it burns down. I also can’t reload while flames are present. Smokes out the house if I open the door enough to get my arm in regardless of how long I try to develop draft in the

The difficulty in getting the cat active is another clue of a possible issue with the wood. Do you have some 2x4 scraps? If so, try adding them to a load.

I feel like the flames are rolling pretty hot right now and as you can see the cat is only active on the left hand side

 

[stoveliker]

I can have explosions of bluish misty flame in the firebox. Even with true 14 percent (4 years old oak) wood.

If you burn at low output, gases are produced at the wood. They slowly (because low burn is low air flow) move to the cat and are combusted there producing most of the heat there in this mode of burning. But this means that you can have a mix of gaseous fuel and air in the fire box, and with the right conditions (e.g. one candle flame popping up) it can combust in the firebox. I love to see this.

It only happens in certain times of the fuel cycle (never in the last two hours of a burn).

So, that in itself is not a concern. The other things are.

 

[stoveliker]

Ok. I’ll try that as soon as it burns down. I also can’t reload while flames are present. Smokes out the house if I open the door enough to get my arm in regardless of how long I try to develop draft in the stove

That suggests borderline insufficient draft. Open a window next time before you open the door to reload.

 

[begreen]

Ok. I’ll try that as soon as it burns down. I also can’t reload while flames are present. Smokes out the house if I open the door enough to get my arm in regardless of how long I try to develop draft in the stove

It's is not all that uncommon, especially if the draft is marginal.

 

[Kylefhasvc]

Little window on the cat thermometer is cracked too. So I always thought they dropped the damn stove😂

 

[begreen]

Ok. I’ll try that as soon as it burns down. I also can’t reload while flames are present. Smokes out the house if I open the door enough to get my arm in regardless of how long I try to develop draft in the

I feel like the flames are rolling pretty hot right now and as you can see the cat is only active on the left hand side

View attachment 304291

The cat can be active even when not glowing.

 

[Kylefhasvc]

The cat can be active even when not glowing.

The cat can be active even when not glowing.

ok! Gotcha! Really can’t see anything coming out of the flue when the bypass is in so I figured it was doing its job. Just didn’t want to bugger it up prematurely. I saw you comment on another thread about the top hinge being slanted. Mine doesn’t appear to be that way. Looks fairly straight. Could this be an issue with the door closing on its own?

 

[stoveliker]

Misfitting door, broken cat gauge window, bypass lever needing too much force.

That is a collection of mechanical issues that I would demand be resolved. Indeed has this thing been dropped?

The totality of this is rather concerning to me.

 

[stoveliker]

The cat only glowing on one side is not an issue.

 

[BKVP]

STOP.
The cat thermometer on the AF and SC25's in a switch. It does Not gradually increase. Once the cat hits 550F, the needle points around 12 to 1 o'clock and goes no further.

Next, if it takes longer than 15-20 minutes to reach active, you have insufficient draft, wetter wood than you can use a lower burn rates or combination of both.

It is mentioned that the door was adjusted. Please describe in detail who and how that was done. Door handle offset in normal to help past surface temp on handle. Picture would be great.

Next, if door was adjusted on hinge side it might bind latch side (as described, difficult to operate) There is adjustment in the engagement bracket that door locks to.

Next, door being level. The AF25 has a non adjustable stop for the door that can rebound. It is there to keep cat door frame from colliding with cast side panel. Likely stove is not perfectly level front to back. Below where fans are located, are level adjustment bolts. Turn left rear and right rear clockwise a revolution or two. BUT if door was not adjusted correctly, it might be: causing stiff door handle operation, poor door/gasket to stove fitment AND door swinging closed.

PM me dealer info, your contact info, serial number, we'll get started on helping.

 

[stoveliker]

And the bypass lever issue? (Having to bang on it...)

 

[BKVP]

Oh...and bring your wood inside tonight, split tomorrow and take reading. Testing off your wood pile is not accurate. Also put room in room other than where stove or Furnace is located.

 

[Kylefhasvc]

Misfitting door, broken cat gauge window, bypass lever needing too much force.

That is a collection of mechanical issues that I would demand be resolved. Indeed has this thing been dropped?

The totality of this is rather concerning to me.

Damn,

STOP.
The cat thermometer on the AF and SC25's in a switch. It does Not gradually increase. Once the cat hits 550F, the needle points around 12 to 1 o'clock and goes no further.

Next, if it takes longer than 15-20 minutes to reach active, you have insufficient draft, wetter wood than you can use a lower burn rates or combination of both.

It is mentioned that the door was adjusted. Please describe in detail who and how that was done. Door handle offset in normal to help past surface temp on handle. Picture would be great.

Next, if door was adjusted on hinge side it might bind latch side (as described, difficult to operate) There is adjustment in the engagement bracket that door locks to.

Next, door being level. The AF25 has a non adjustable stop for the door that can rebound. It is there to keep cat door frame from colliding with cast side panel. Likely stove is not perfectly level front to back. Below where fans are located, are level adjustment bolts. Turn left rear and right rear clockwise a revolution or two. BUT if door was not adjusted correctly, it might be: causing stiff door handle operation, poor door/gasket to stove fitment AND door swinging closed.

PM me dealer info, your contact info, serial number, we'll get started on helping.

I can get the gauge to active no problem in 15 minutes with the door open on start up.

I adjust the latching side catch toward the rear of the stove. Nothing on the hinge side

Let me try to figure out how to PM you. Also not sure how to find the serial number. They didn’t write it on the paperwork.