Auger motor

[CleanBurn]

Hello all my Englander PDV25 top auger motor has quit working. I have changed wires on the 2 motors and confirmed it is working ok. It's not getting a signal from the board. I have also by passed the hopper lid switch. Any suggestions. Thanks
Lin

 

[Lake Girl]

Sorry you got missed ... Have you checked the barb and hose going to the pressure switch? Make sure the barb is clear and no cracks/breaks in the hose to the pressure switch.

When was the last time it got a really good cleaning of exhaust venting and internal exhaust path? Make sure you have a gasket when you pull the exhaust blower...

(broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/assets/images/general/25-PDVEand25-PDV_CANADA.pdf) Troubleshooting on page 27

If you pull the auger to make sure there are no jams, you should reference the troubleshooting sheets on England Stove Works pages for repositioning: (broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/support/troubleshooting-guide/pellet-stove-service-procedures)

 

[CleanBurn]

Sorry you got missed ... Have you checked the barb and hose going to the pressure switch? Make sure the barb is clear and no cracks/breaks in the hose to the pressure switch.

When was the last time it got a really good cleaning of exhaust venting and internal exhaust path? Make sure you have a gasket when you pull the exhaust blower...

(broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/assets/images/general/25-PDVEand25-PDV_CANADA.pdf) Troubleshooting on page 27

If you pull the auger to make sure there are no jams, you should reference the troubleshooting sheets on England Stove Works pages for repositioning: (broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/support/troubleshooting-guide/pellet-stove-service-procedures)

Thanks for reply. There are 2 pressure switches. Should I check both of them. I cleaned it this spring from flue to combustion blower complete with new gasket for blower. I have looked everywhere but don't see how to clean all the pathways from firebox to combustion motor. Also I will note since this intermittent feed rate it is burning really dirty and black. Thanks
Lin

 

[pageyjim]

"Monthly Ash Removal The large baffle plate (12-5/8” x 9-3/8”) that rests above and behind the burn pot (refer to the section on “Proper Impingement Plate Placement” and the exploded diagram in the rear of this manual – Illustration 6) should be removed monthly. This can be done by lifting up the plate and pulling it out. The area behind the plate should then be cleaned thoroughly, and the plate placed back in the original position. Use a screwdriver or chisel and break any creosote build-up in the front of the unit, where the pellets are fed into the burn pot from the Bottom Auger Tube (see Illustration 2). Moisture in the pellets and resulting build-up in this area can cause the bottom auger to “squeal” or squeak. Also inspect your flue pipes, and remove ash buildup from the clean-out tee."

This is from page 17 of your manual. It sounds like you need to start with a deep cleaning and take it from there.

 

[CleanBurn]

"Monthly Ash Removal The large baffle plate (12-5/8” x 9-3/8”) that rests above and behind the burn pot (refer to the section on “Proper Impingement Plate Placement” and the exploded diagram in the rear of this manual – Illustration 6) should be removed monthly. This can be done by lifting up the plate and pulling it out. The area behind the plate should then be cleaned thoroughly, and the plate placed back in the original position. Use a screwdriver or chisel and break any creosote build-up in the front of the unit, where the pellets are fed into the burn pot from the Bottom Auger Tube (see Illustration 2). Moisture in the pellets and resulting build-up in this area can cause the bottom auger to “squeal” or squeak. Also inspect your flue pipes, and remove ash buildup from the clean-out tee."

This is from page 17 of your manual. It sounds like you need to start with a deep cleaning and take it from there.

Yes I have done all of the above and it's clean as a wisthle except from behind the impingement plate to the blower motor (exhaust that is)
And now today it's not burning the pellets properly.

 

[pageyjim]

Is the flue also clean? You may want to make sure you are in the proper burn mode. I do not know what it is for that stove. I am sure you can find it with a search on this site. It should also tell you how to check in the same thread. It seems that the augers are working now. If it is clean and in the proper mode you may just need to adjust the air for a better burn. I believe with your stove the adjustments only work on 1 and 2 burn settings,

 

[CleanBurn]

Is the flue also clean? You may want to make sure you are in the proper burn mode. I do not know what it is for that stove. I am sure you can find it with a search on this site. It should also tell you how to check in the same thread. It seems that the augers are working now. If it is clean and in the proper mode you may just need to adjust the air for a better burn. I believe with your stove the adjustments only work on 1 and 2 burn settings,

Yes for this stove the factory's setting is 6-4-1 which I cut down not long after I got it as it was burning way too hot and I was told to cut the feed rate down so the 6 went to a 4 which has been great till now. I am really thinking that there is something going on with the board. The top auger motor is still not reacting correctly I really don't want to lay out the coin for a new board but it looks like I may have to. I have since put all the settings back to factory.

 

[pageyjim]

It could be burning that way because of the flue set up also. You didn't say if the flue was clean. The auger may be not responding because of the pressure switch. The pressure switch may be doing its job correctly the only way to test correctly is with a manometer and a tee to measure what the pressure switch is seeing.Boards fail but I would not jump to that conclusion. Is the auger under feeding or over feeding now?
Probably time for a call to England Stoves.

 

[CleanBurn]

It could be burning that way because of the flue set up also. You didn't say if the flue was clean. The auger may be not responding because of the pressure switch. The pressure switch may be doing its job correctly the only way to test correctly is with a manometer and a tee to measure what the pressure switch is seeing.Boards fail but I would not jump to that conclusion. Is the auger under feeding or over feeding now?
Probably time for a call to England Stoves.

Yes the flue is clean, that was the first thing I checked, since going back to the factory settings the auger is over feeding and pushing pellets over the front of burn pot. One other thing I have asked is how do I clean inside the stove behind the impingement plate to the exhaust motor. When I saw the soot build up on the exhaust motor and flue this spring I can help thinking that some of the path ways are the same.

 

[pageyjim]

I believe the modes on that stove are a,b,c, and d. You may want to check that also. You shouldn't be getting soot. You are burning to rich(Too much fuel and not enough air) if you are.
Someone with that stove will probably chime in. I would also do a search on this site for your stove and I am sure you will find a wealth of info.

I would start off with a manual start also. It just starts off with a better burn that way imo.

 

[Lake Girl]

Check barbs on both vac switches (one on combustion blower, one on firebox). Might not hurt to trim them both back a bit if there is enough hose. Both firebox and blower would expose hoses to higher temps and they do become brittle.

Might also want to check gaskets ... hopper, door. Adjust latches as appropriate. Dollar bill test ... close a dollar or similar paper in the door and hopper. If it pulls free easily, time to change gaskets. Recall some folks experiencing dirty burns due to slight warping in hopper lids or doors. One member had to double up hopper gasket to get a good seal.

Keep us posted...