Auger problems- Enviro Windsor

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11freddy

New Member
Feb 13, 2018
3
Canada
Trying to get the stove at my dad's place going... first problem was the ignitrr, replaced that and the stove worked for 20 minutes or so but then went out because pellets were no longer fed.

I thought I heard the auger turning, turned out it was just the motor... Google said pellet jam... opened up the auger cover and cleaned out some pellets/dust but this didn't fix anything. Looked carefully at the motor/gearbox and while the motor shaft turns, the auger itself doesn't.

Unbolted the motor, and after consulting Rod Poplarchick's post used a couple of flat bars and some stern words to pry the motor off the shaft. The auger itself turns... pushing manual feed the auger drive shaft on the gearbox turned too; but I'm 95% certain I was able to stop it turning just with fingers.

Took it home and thought I'd take the gearbox apart before ordering a replacement; did that, nothing obviously wrong; reassembled it and plugged it into the wall. Tried to stop the shaft and couldn't even using pliers on the flat.

Getting it out was a painful process, would rather not put it back in only to have the problem again.

Anyone have a similar experience? Is there something else I should look at in the gearbox?

Also, saw a reminder somewhere about sealing the auger cover when you remove/replace it... Is this to prevent CO leak or something else? Is silicon okay, or should something else be used?

Thanks...
 
I have had many apart, the armature shaft that goes into the gearbox and the first gear it makes contact with usually have worn down considerably or be missing teeth and would slip. The armature try’s to go into the gear box by design that is why there are phenolic washers on each end to center the armature in the magnetic field of the coils. If the washers are worn they may allow the armature to move towards the gearbox and out of the field a bit and that weakens the motor itself. If you seal it any high temp silicone will work. But for what they cost now i would replace it. If you order new get the correct rpm and rotation
 
I have had many apart, the armature shaft that goes into the gearbox and the first gear it makes contact with usually have worn down considerably or be missing teeth and would slip. The armature try’s to go into the gear box by design that is why there are phenolic washers on each end to center the armature in the magnetic field of the coils. If the washers are worn they may allow the armature to move towards the gearbox and out of the field a bit and that weakens the motor itself. If you seal it any high temp silicone will work. But for what they cost now i would replace it. If you order new get the correct rpm and rotation
 
Thanks for the response... gear on the motor shaft and its mate look okay; I found one other gear in the series that slipped a little but only when I was running it open- so only one end of its shaft was supported; once closed I couldn't make it stop. I think I will replace it...

My question on sealing was not related to the motor... it was about the plate that covers the auger inside the pellet reservoir. I read somewhere once opened, this needs to be resealed and there is goop on it... Wanted to know why it needs to be sealed, and what to use?

Thanks...
 
Reseal the auger cover with Hi Temp Silicone
Really do not need Hi temp any silicone will do
does not get hot enough to worry about .
Buy the way Canada is a big country where are you
do not have to be right on the noise . I'm in Eastern Ontario
You know where the Feds screw up the country from
 
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