Aurora wood stove info wanted

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jehiatt

New Member
Dec 3, 2008
4
Beautifu Georgia
:question:
I can't locate any info or model number on this heater. It is built of steel, apparently well put together, and in excellent condition including the door seals.
It has an external air circulation chamber built under the bottom, partially up the backside, then is piped through the upper fire box to exit out the top front vents. A blower is attached to the input on the bottom right front side.

I wanted to find out if this is a EPA rated heater. It could easily be raised to a higher efficency level by adding a barrier plate on top of the vent tubes passing throuh the fire box. Making a heated air supply from the brass vents screws could be arranged also.

Somebody has to know something about this heater besides Aurora Illlinois that comes up on my searches.

All help appreciated and Merry Christmas. All I want for Christmas is my stove installed.


Also - this is my first visit here and I find the site operation is first class - in ease of navigation and operation. Thank you very much


 

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Don't know if this link is a dead end or not but Aurora may have been taken over by Blaze King who might help. Craig, the Webmaster here, is pretty good at the more obscure stoves. Perhaps he'll chime in.
 
I never got any info on this stove. I horse traded and purchased parts until I finally got it installed in mid January. It was installed to meet codes for an old stove except the Durock heat shield ends at 27 inches of protection to the rear wall sides and not 36 inches. I used metal wall studs for spacing behind the Durock.
The Durock hearth heat shield was placed up on 8 inch blocks. I have about 22 inches out to the front edge which makes it real easy to sit down and build the fire, clean the stove out, or warm my backside later.

A metal baffle was cut and formed to fit below the inside upper vent tubes and a copper water pipe affair was assembled to provide
air from the right air vent opening up and to the top middle of the fire box area. I just pull it out to try making a stainless steel baffle. I don't know how I got that plate in there and had a hard time getting it out. It is still in good shape. The copper pipe did not do so good. It is supposed to survive 1900 degrees but is somewhat burnt up now.

Anyway it took fifteen minutes to get a roaring fire and thirty minutes to see the room temperature rise.
I don't know a thing about secondary burn but I think I had it. My infared reader quits at 510 degrees and that fire exceeded that once it got going good and the fire was a rolling tornado. It didn't take long to heat my big room and had to start opening the hall doors and cutting the air supply to the fire.

The infrared meter said I was not even close to a high heat problem anywhere on the walls, floor or ceiling.
Now I have all summer to do a bettter job of making a new baffle and secondary air supply tube. Also to possible tile the hearth and install black expanded metal screens around the hearth perimeter blocks to make it look decent. (and paint the blocks black also)

One of the pictures is of my stove pipe connector invented because I drove 50 miles to buy a slip pipe and it wouldn't slip on my 6 inch pipe. So I cut a piece of vent pipe to put around the vent pipe outlet vent pipe connector and another with flanges made to put around that piece and screwed it together. So I can remove it easily at any time to do any adjustment to the stove or what ever.Thank you all for the help you gave me to learn how to install this stove.
 

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Seems I guess don't know how to post pictures so trying to resize three remaining pictures to meet the TOTAL of 450 kb. I thought it meant 450 for each pix. Sorry about that!
 

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no, but I am planning to build the transition to my 8" chimney and attach a few feet of pipe, (outside my home) and build a huge fire in it to check temps. What did your infrared thermometer read during your burn? Mine will be an insert.
Thanks
 
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