Avalon 1750 Advice

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rileyjward208

Member
Oct 30, 2015
13
Idaho
I recently installed a new Avalon Spokane 1750 in my home. It is the model with the pedestal and an outside air kit that vents through the base of the pedestal. I have 6" double wall pipe with 2 45's from the stove to the ceiling with 8" triple wall out the roof through the attic.

Since this wood stove was installed (October 2014) we have had issues with it's ability to produce a good fire. It always seems as though it is not getting enough air and we have had an excessive amount of creosote build-up in the 6" pipe. We use well seasoned lodge pole pine mixed with doug fir. We also have issues with the smoke rolling out of the door when we open it. This happens all the time. Our previous stove was much smaller in capacity but we never had this issue. We only bought a new one because our previous one couldn't handle the size of our house.

We live a long way from any city that carries these stoves or even has someone that could come out to help me with the trouble shooting. I am hoping that this forum can help me come up with a solution.

Thanks in advance.
 
Welcome. This sounds like a draft problem. Some stoves need more draft than others. This is particularly true if comparing a pre-EPA stove with a modern unit. Weak draft may be due to the 8" pipe. How tall is the whole flue system from stove to flue cap?
 
That's not bad. Has anyone cleaned the chimney recently and inspected the cap for clogging?

What was the previous stove?
 
That's not bad. Has anyone cleaned the chimney recently and inspected the cap for clogging?

What was the previous stove?

I cleaned it myself recently. Everything is clean and clear of any clogs. It has me completely stumped. The previous was nothing special. I don't even remember the name on it.
 
OK, the cap if it has a screen can be a clogging point.
The reason I ask about the previous stove is that if it was a pre-epa or epa exempt model it would not have the draft requirements of the Avalon.
 
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It's probably the 8" pipe. The manual says 6" chimney only.

Is the stove on the main floor or a basement?
 
It's odd that this is not working in spite of having an outside air connection. Is there any possibility of that being plugged somehow?
So some options outside of changing the chimney to 6" -
Get the pipe draft tested with a magnahelic. That will tell you the draft in the pipe.
Make sure there are no leaks in the stove pipe. Make sure it is tight at the stove flue collar.
Stick a 6" stainless steel rigid liner down the chimney pipe?
Change the stove to an easier breathing stove like the Pacific Energy Super 27
 
Are the 45 degree elbows right on the stove top? Or up near the ceiling? I really doubt the 8" flue is causing this.
 
Are the 45 degree elbows right on the stove top? Or up near the ceiling? I really doubt the 8" flue is causing this.
The 45's offset on our stove starts right at the flue collar. We have the same 20' height flue. No draft issues here even in mild weather.
 
The 45's offset on our stove starts right at the flue collar. We have the same 20' height flue. No draft issues here even in mild weather.
Are you running the same stove? Also, are you running double wall inside your house? I had to do it for clearance issues. I'm using Duravent with a couple telescoping pieces. Could these be "leaky"?
 
We have a PE Alderlea T6. Yes our connector pipe is double-wall Duravent pipe. It's unlikely the DVL joints are leaky but check to be sure the flue collar connection is snug and tight.
 
We have a PE Alderlea T6. Yes our connector pipe is double-wall Duravent pipe. It's unlikely the DVL joints are leaky but check to be sure the flue collar connection is snug and tight.
It appears that the flue collar is fine. It is tight. Also, I took the stove off the pedestal and checked the outside air. It is open and air is flowing fine. I am beyond baffled now.
 
Do you live at a high elevation?
 
Ding ding! Very good question.
 
The 45's offset on our stove starts right at the flue collar. We have the same 20' height flue. No draft issues here even in mild weather.
It's a viable question. For good draft the elbows should not be on the stove top. You want them as high as possible.
 
You said that you have seasoned wood. How seasoned is it? Have you ever tested it with a moisture meter?
 
I've checked the
We have a PE Alderlea T6. Yes our connector pipe is double-wall Duravent pipe. It's unlikely the DVL joints are leaky but check to be sure the flue collar connection is snug and tight.
It appears that the flue collar is fine. It is tight. Also, I took the stove off the pedestal and checked the outside air. It is open and air is flowing fine. I am beyond baffled now. I'm confident that the outside air didn't require any changes to the stove itself. Are you familiar with the out side air kit on the Avalon? Are there any plates that need to be altered or
Do you live at a high elevation?
I live at about 3500 ft. I live above a river and am surrounded by mountains.
 
You said that you have seasoned wood. How seasoned is it? Have you ever tested it with a moisture meter?
I have not checked it with moister meter. I collect my own wood and usually get dead standing lodge pole pine and fir. It usually is split and stacked for 12 months before burning.
 
3500 ft is high, but not as much as say Denver at 5200ft. High altitude air is thinner and requires more chimney to make good draft.
[Hearth.com] Avalon 1750 Advice
This is a perplexing problem. A magnehelic put on the stove pipe would tell you how strong the draft is. It should have a low range for accurate draft reading. Something like this is appropriate. Most oil and gas burner service people would have one.
(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dwyer-2000-00C-Magnehelic-Differential-Pressure-Gauge-0-to-0-25-in-water-/400968493795)

In lieu of testing with a gauge, is the chimney easily accessible? If yes, how much 8" pipe is there? As a test, I would be tempted to go out and buy a few 4ft lengths of cheap, 6" round duct pipe. I'd pop-rivet them together in 3 spots, remove the chimney cap and then lower this pipe crimp end down, into the chimney, trying to seat it firmly in the base. It may need to have some temporary wire stays at the top to keep it centered. No need for a top cap as long as the weather is dry. Fire up the stove and see if it's more responsive.
 
Is your baffle installed correctly? Make sure it's pushed all the way to the back. That front baffle brick retainer can be a pain.
 
People say 8" pipe should be ok, or might be ok for that stove. But at 3500ft? There are pro's on here who know a whole lot more than me, but I wonder if the 8" is a much bigger issue at that elevation.
 
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