Valhalla said:Hello Chateaugay,
Always use 2 stroke oil only for the mix. Oil is "relatively" cheap, compared to small engines. It is not worth the loss of lubrication and deposit control risk.
Bar oil needs to be sticky in the summer for lubrication and to flow with "stickyness" for bar and chain lube in the cold.
Particularly in the North Country. As one member described SAE 30 can also work at times.
PS Was stationed at Plattsburgh AFB from 69-73. Love the entire North Country!
CowboyAndy said:Is there a noticable difference in different brands of bar and 2 stroke oil?
stihl is a better oil, i use 6 gallons of mix to 1 gallon of bar oil. Funny how that works out almost to the TCowboyAndy said:Okay, I still have another question about BAR oil.
I have a jug of "MASTER MECHANIC" bar oil, and seem to go through it pretty fast. When that ran out I used Stihl brand bar oil and it DOESN'T go through it as fast.
What gives?
TMonter said:Use a good quality synthetic 2-Stroke oil mixed at your saw manufacturer's recommended mix ratio.
I used to prefer Mobil 1 M2T before they discontinued it. Lately I've been using Husky XP oil since the Stihl synthetic is not available.
Make sure the oil you use is air cooled rated.
JoeyJ said:I do use the Echo 2 stoke oil also, as I said it has dye in it so there is no mistaking whether one has added the 2 stoke oil or not. I wonder if you could use old motor oil as a chain and bar lube. It seems to have the same viscosity at least in the 40 weight range. Never done it though, bar and chain oil is relatively cheap and I rarely use more than 1-2 gallons per season.
I have heard of old timers using old motor oil to coat their wooden gutters against rot, but again linseed oil is not that expensive...Just musing
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