Basement wood stove install question..

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jm3isme

Member
Jan 19, 2014
10
Ok I want to add a wood stove to my basement. Here's what I'm envisioning doing for chimney / stove pipe... But haven't found anything or seen anything done this way

I want to send the pipe through the basement wall.

Now here's what I want to do on the outside. On the outside, i want to dig down, pour a footing and then build a brick base around the stove pipe coming out of basement wall, with a cast iron clean out door on the outer side and then instead of building a full brick chimney, I want to use triple wall pipe out of the brick box I build.

Anyone done anything this way?

If so post pictures please.


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That cold brick box would be against code and most likely a creosote trap that from quickly cooling down flue gases. The class A pipe going through the wall should connect to a class A tee and then up with the class A chimney. Double-wall class A chimney is generally better than the cheaper triple wall.
 
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We have done that plenty of times to replace a masonry chimney we just ake it down close to grade line the masonry section with a stainless liner not stove pipe then run insulated class a chimney up the rest of the way. stay away from triple wall double wall insulated is much better. A better option would be to run class a straight up from the stove through the house and out but sometimes that is not an option.
 
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Yeah I wasn't aware that's not code, I'm just in idea/ planning stage of this. I just thought something like that would be better for a longevity and stability standpoints...


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Maybe it would help if you could make a drawing of what your trying to do and post it here so folks can give you ideas.

Trying to heat from a basement can be tricky. Is the basement insulated?
 
Yeah I wasn't aware that's not code, I'm just in idea/ planning stage of this. I just thought something like that would be better for a longevity and stability standpoints...
As long as you line it with a stainless liner and insulate that liner with the proper insulation there is no reason it could not be done to code.
 
That wasn't how the plan was described. How does the cleanout on the brick box figure into that?
 
That wasn't how the plan was described. How does the cleanout on the brick box figure into that?
That is why I said it needs lined. What he would be doing is just building a short masonry chimney then transition to class a. In this case I am not sure what the benefit would be but it absolutely can be done to code. And nothing wrong with a clean out as long as it is below the crock.
 
[Hearth.com] Basement wood stove install question..


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Here's the gist of it. I want to build a footing and brick base (if allowable to code) instead of just using the "thru the wall" normal chimney brackets...

I want to know of any one has done something similar to this.....?


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Id rather not use this with a T, but I guess I could it's just the ground level is a little close to where it would come out. I just might have to build a window well type thing around it. That's why I was leaning towards a footing and brick base with clean out door..


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Jm - You could save so much time and money by just installing a through the wall kit, you will get the clean out tee, and support bracket, plus you wont be capturing moisture from the rain or ground.
 
Yeah Kenny, I think that's the reality of it…


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As long as the wall penetration is not to far below grade I would absolutely just use a tee and do a well. I have seen quite a few problems with wells that are deeper than a foot though. eventually you can end up with water problems. But we have done what you are proposing a few times when we need to replace an existing masonry chimney where the crock is below grade. It will work fine as long as you line the brick with an insulated liner and use the right transition piece between the liner and the class a chimney.
 
Regardless of the final exterior solution be mindful of the stove pipe clearance requirements inside. Single wall pipe will need at least 18" clearance from the ceiling, double-wall will need 9". This may be reduced with a ventilated ceiling heat shield if approved.
 
You would be doing yourself a huge favor if you would insulate that block wall inside. I mean night and day difference in heat staying in your house.
 
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