Basement wood stove to heat house? New build, ICF basement.

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snicklefrieghtz

New Member
Apr 2, 2024
3
Manitoba
Hi there!

I purchased land this year and next year plan to build my forever home. I'm looking to hear about peoples experiences with using wood stoves in the basement to heat their house. I've gone through the forums and found that a well insulated basement is key so there is no heat loss through the walls so ICF (lock blocks) it will be, If anyone has experience on ICF entire house I'd appreciate the info vs wood frame and spray foam insulation. I also hear carrying wood into the basement is a pain. As for pushing the heat from the basement to the main floor, I have a few ideas and would love to hear from anyone who's done it.

1. Cutting a chute from the entrance to the basement so I can easily get wood downstairs near the stove.
2. For better heat transfer I won't insulate the floors but will use some kind of sound deadener in place to get the same sound barrier.
3. Use some exhaust fans to the main floor to help push the heated air upstairs
4. Center the stove on a long wall instead of a corner
5. Possibly installing a propane furnace to be my main heat source and wood stove will supplement the heat. Keep the furnace low at about 10C (50F). I can't get natural gas without it costing me more money than god has. Depending on how great a wood stove could be in the basement, I may not need the propane furnace.

These are just ideas right now that in theory should work. Any help and criticism is greatly appreciated.
House plans are still in the works but basically 1600sqft, raised bungalow, open floor plan, cathedral ceilings with loft, rectangle design. Thanks in advance!
 
Considering the house is not built yet, take time to plan for success. If the wood stove can be centrally located it will help a lot. The basement walls will need to be insulated. To work with nature and natural convection have the basement stairwell near the wood stove and keep it open, not enclosed. Or plan on a large floor grate over the stove area. This will be the supply air. Then place at least 4 registers on the perimeter walls, preferably in areas not closed off by doors. These will be the returns for cooler air to sink back down to the basement. They should be large enough to facilitate the free flow of air (6x14?) and they need to have fusible-link dampers. Done right, there will be no need for fan assist.

For the stove, get the heat loss calcs done for the house early by the furnace installer. Use that number as a guide for stove size.
 
centrally located I wanted to do but I ran into 2 things I don't like about it. A single chimney going thru the center of my main floor (feels like it'd be an eyesore), the cost of that chimney. I was thinking center of a long wall so it's still centered to a degree but against a wall. I don't know much about fire code, does a chimney need to exit though the roof? Can I shorten the chimney and put it through the side of the house? Like you would a dryer vent.
I can do 2 perimeter walls fine but the other 2 walls will be for bedrooms. Would that be good enough? 2 registers each on 2 walls at the 4 corners of the center of the house, about 20-30ft apart from each other in that case in an open layout. I've read a few posts about fusible link dampers and they sound useful. I'll post a rough sketch of the layout once it's complete. Should be later today or tomorrow. Thanks, I guess it does needs consistent air return.
Stairs will actually be pretty close to the stove now that I think about it, happy accident.
 
I like the gravity air system described by begreen.
I did a force air system, see here.

My stove.is away from the stairs on a wall (stairs are central).
 
I grew up in a house that had a centrally located wood stove and LP furnace that shared ductwork. Fire the wood stove and its blower pushed air through the house, fire goes out and the LP furnace kicked on. It worked very well.

Are you opposed to running some ductwork ?

Also, it’s best if the smoke exists chimney above the roof line. At least that’s how every chimney I’ve ever seen has been setup. Ours was around 4’ taller than the roof. They’re not inexpensive but it’s an expense to burning wood just like the stove itself. You don’t want to cheap out on either.

We built a SIP home a few years ago and love it. ICF foundation with SIP panels above. Can heat it with a fart and candle.

In my parents house we had a cellar entrance with no steps that we opened and pitched wood into. It worked great and was large enough to hold a couple cord pretty easily.
 
centrally located I wanted to do but I ran into 2 things I don't like about it. A single chimney going thru the center of my main floor (feels like it'd be an eyesore), the cost of that chimney. I was thinking center of a long wall so it's still centered to a degree but against a wall. I don't know much about fire code, does a chimney need to exit though the roof? Can I shorten the chimney and put it through the side of the house? Like you would a dryer vent.
Install a metal chimney in a 12" x 12" ID chase. It can be inside a cabinet or closet.

I can do 2 perimeter walls fine but the other 2 walls will be for bedrooms. Would that be good enough? 2 registers each on 2 walls at the 4 corners of the center of the house, about 20-30ft apart from each other in that case in an open layout. I've read a few posts about fusible link dampers and they sound useful. I'll post a rough sketch of the layout once it's complete. Should be later today or tomorrow. Thanks, I guess it does needs consistent air return.
Stairs will actually be pretty close to the stove now that I think about it, happy accident.
If the bedroom doors will usually be open, that location can still work. Or a transom or wall vent could be added to help circulation. Seeing a floor plan will make it easier to comment on and make suggestions.