Beginner questions for burning a tube stove

[GooseChaser]

I recently had an Enerzone Solution 2.3 insert installed in my house. I've been around old style inserts and stoves for a while, so I thought I knew what I was doing. After reading the newest sticky about building a fire, I'm not so sure I am operating correctly and have the correct tools.

I currently do not have a moisture meter, so I can't give moisture content on my firewood.

I will say 90% of what I have been burning is locust that was cut in March of 2019 into 14 inch lengths and stacked. I did not have the chance to split until a couple months later.

As far as starting the fire. I would build a fire log cabin style with small small splits, newspaper wadded in the center. I would have the air inlet set to wide open, door not fully shut....1/4 inch gap.

I only have a thermometer that sits on top of the stove. I would let that get up to 450/500 degrees, then close the door. 5 minutes later I would close the air inlet to 75% open. 5 minutes later I close to 50% open. 5 minutes later I close to about 20% open. Sometimes I try and close down about 10-15% open. The orange flames would calm down and I would get the blue plasma looking flames, but I haven't gotten the flames going through the holes in the tube yet.

I also have been having a problem with only getting hot orange coals in the front of my stove. The rear will just be black charcoal looking.

So go ahead and tell me what I need, what I need to do different. I am pretty sure my firewood is probably not dry where it needs to be.

 

[Mech e]

I am running basically the same stove, a Drolet Escape 1800. Both built by SBI and both have the same specs. The process you are using to get the stove up to temperature sounds reasonable. It is very similar to what I do. The main difference is that I completely close the air control once the stove top temp (STT) hits 500-550. Depending on my load, the temp will continue to rise until I top out at 650-700 STT. I have the thermometer located on the stove top center, a couple of inches in front of the stove pipe. It is really for reference only, just gives me an idea where I am in the burn cycle.

It is really important to have dry wood. If you don't getting the stove temp up and keeping the burn going is very difficult. You should be able to run the stove, once up to temp, with the air shut off. This assumes you have adequate draft and dry wood. Additionally, once the air control is closed, all combustion air will come through the tubes, encouraging secondary burn.

 

[Dix]

Welcome to the forums, for starters

My bet is the firewood is the culprit.

Get yourself ahead, as much as you can.

If you can process, soft woods will be your friend, seasons faster, as does cherry & maple (split small).

 

[weatherguy]

Doesn't sound like your wood has had enough time to season, nothing you can do about that now but that locust should be great fuel for next year.

 

[Ludlow]

The fact that the coals glow in front and not in back shows that it takes direct air to make them burn. Wet wood. You will need to run the air open more and just live with shorter burn times until you get ahead in your woodpile.

 

[AlbergSteve]

The best thing you can do for yourself is buy a moisture meter. They're cheap, buy two and compare results. I've got a tiny bit of locust in my pile that's been drying for two years, still not under 30% MC, whereas all my fir is under 18% in one summer. My bet is you've got really wet locust. You've got to have dry wood.

 

[weatherguy]

You can try mixing in some construction wood, cut up pallets of bio bricks or similar product to get through the year.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

I wouldn’t want to keep the door open for that long. With drier wood, that should become much less necessary.

 

[prezes13]

Just like everyone said it’s your wood. It’s still wet. New stoves need dry wood other wise it’s like pulling teeth very frustrating. I would imagine that black locust would take three years to be properly seasoned.

 

[BigJ273]

I recently had an Enerzone Solution 2.3 insert installed in my house. I've been around old style inserts and stoves for a while, so I thought I knew what I was doing. After reading the newest sticky about building a fire, I'm not so sure I am operating correctly and have the correct tools.

I currently do not have a moisture meter, so I can't give moisture content on my firewood.

I will say 90% of what I have been burning is locust that was cut in March of 2019 into 14 inch lengths and stacked. I did not have the chance to split until a couple months later.

As far as starting the fire. I would build a fire log cabin style with small small splits, newspaper wadded in the center. I would have the air inlet set to wide open, door not fully shut....1/4 inch gap.

I only have a thermometer that sits on top of the stove. I would let that get up to 450/500 degrees, then close the door. 5 minutes later I would close the air inlet to 75% open. 5 minutes later I close to 50% open. 5 minutes later I close to about 20% open. Sometimes I try and close down about 10-15% open. The orange flames would calm down and I would get the blue plasma looking flames, but I haven't gotten the flames going through the holes in the tube yet.

I also have been having a problem with only getting hot orange coals in the front of my stove. The rear will just be black charcoal looking.

So go ahead and tell me what I need, what I need to do different. I am pretty sure my firewood is probably not dry where it needs to be.

Greetings from the Eastern Shore!

 

[john26]

I am burning locust that was cut this fall from standing dead it was split in December. When I split it it moisture content was higher than I would like so I split it to small pieces stored it outside covered for a month and half then brought it in side for 2 weeks. I didn't check it with a meter but its very dry no bubbling or sizzling and the grain is curling up burns very well. You might try splitting it smaller and drying it inside.

 

[BigJ273]

I recently had an Enerzone Solution 2.3 insert installed in my house. I've been around old style inserts and stoves for a while, so I thought I knew what I was doing. After reading the newest sticky about building a fire, I'm not so sure I am operating correctly and have the correct tools.

I currently do not have a moisture meter, so I can't give moisture content on my firewood.

I will say 90% of what I have been burning is locust that was cut in March of 2019 into 14 inch lengths and stacked. I did not have the chance to split until a couple months later.

As far as starting the fire. I would build a fire log cabin style with small small splits, newspaper wadded in the center. I would have the air inlet set to wide open, door not fully shut....1/4 inch gap.

I only have a thermometer that sits on top of the stove. I would let that get up to 450/500 degrees, then close the door. 5 minutes later I would close the air inlet to 75% open. 5 minutes later I close to 50% open. 5 minutes later I close to about 20% open. Sometimes I try and close down about 10-15% open. The orange flames would calm down and I would get the blue plasma looking flames, but I haven't gotten the flames going through the holes in the tube yet.

I also have been having a problem with only getting hot orange coals in the front of my stove. The rear will just be black charcoal looking.

So go ahead and tell me what I need, what I need to do different. I am pretty sure my firewood is probably not dry where it needs to be.

Flames won’t go through the holes. Air comes out to reburn the smoke/gases creating a cleaner, hotter, secondary burn.

 

[BigJ273]

It’s a task to get ahead on wood properly, especially if u cut and split it urself. I’m headed out again today to buck and split some more for 2022-23 wood. It takes a concerted effort. You really have to look towards the future. But man, does it make burning wood so much more enjoyable come burn time!

 

[Mech e]

Here us an image of my escape with the air control closed. It has been burning for a couple hours. STT sitting at about 600.