Best Practices for Liner Install for insert

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BuoyTen

Member
Jan 6, 2015
15
CT shore
Even after removing the active/opening part of the damper, I still do not see how even a 6" liner could be snaked thru the remaining half/other components of the damper. Appears to be just a small slot for smoke to exit into the flue...any tips?

Thanks. BT
 
Even after removing the active/opening part of the damper, I still do not see how even a 6" liner could be snaked thru the remaining half/other components of the damper. Appears to be just a small slot for smoke to exit into the flue...any tips?

Thanks. BT
Saw all with a metal blade. I took the whole damper frame out.
 
yes could sawzall or even angle grind the steel, the problem now is the entire top of the damper frame (and doors) are cemented and or bricked. there is NO smoke shelf. there is also another steel piece above the active door that angles in towards the center of the chimney. I should also mention that the active/opening component of the damper is located at the rear of the fire box, not sure if i've seen that before.

i could remove enough of the steel to then smash out the firebricks and masonry to get a 6inch through there but it would be a hell of a difficult job. look forward to comments re: the damper and the method it was installed/situated.

it was built in and has been in continuous use since 1958. I even knew the brothers who built it. drafts perfect.
 
Can you post a picture or two looking up at the damper area?
 
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Here's a couple horrible pics , so in the open position I can barely get my hand in the throat but what I feel on both sides which is to say the front and the back of the damper is just solid brick, concrete or some kind of masonry. I can easily remove the door part and maybe cut out the fixed side which in my case is at the front of the chimney. Then I guess chip away at whatever is up there to allow for 6-in, too bad I couldn't see what's up above the damper frame.


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Yes, it looks like removing the damper and cutting a notch into the damper frame should provide the clearance needed.