Does s.s. flex liner cut best with a hacksaw angled across ridges like greenfield conduit? Can you use a high speed cutting wheel? Once cut to length, can you ovalize with a vise at all without unravelling the seam? Thanks for any suggestions.
best way to cut ss flex liner?
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I have cut it with a hacksaw, but tinsnips worked better. Ovalize it with two short 2x12s and your a$$.
-- Mike
-- Mike
Sounds like an electrical guy...chocolateporcupine said:
If so I know what you mean it is a good idea to cut across the ridge (seal) first then cut across the pipe this will limit stress on the seal causing it to unravel.
Good snips - or as mentioned, a grinder - a metal cut-off blade can also be bought to use on your grinder and works well.
Yeah - the stuff will cut you fast - a lot of folks put duct tape or vinyl tape over the cut ends while working with it.
Yeah - the stuff will cut you fast - a lot of folks put duct tape or vinyl tape over the cut ends while working with it.
hint I ovalized it with two pieces od 2/6 and bar clamps. I would ovalize it first before cutting, as it can become unravled, especially if trying to ovalize an open end
Byw I use a 4.5" grinder witha thin metal cutting wheel and like Craig said run duct tape around the area before cutting. The duct take will aid in keeping it in tact
Byw I use a 4.5" grinder witha thin metal cutting wheel and like Craig said run duct tape around the area before cutting. The duct take will aid in keeping it in tact
Plasma Cutter
Horizontal Bandsaw
Vertical Bandsaw
Multi cutter saw
Chopsaw
Cutting with an abrasive chopsaw or 4 1/2" angle grinder with an abrasive blade will give you a sharp bur on the cut (so be careful ) you can also take the abrasive cutting blades to smooth the edges when finished cutting.
Sabre saw did both of mine just fine.
As far as ovalizing, I have heard good things about rolling over it with a piece of PVC pipe.
As far as ovalizing, I have heard good things about rolling over it with a piece of PVC pipe.
I got real lucky. Measured as suggested on the manufacturers website, from the fireplace floor to the top of chimney. And came out perfect. No cutting needed.
Of course I only have flex the first 5', then double wall rigid the rest of the way. I was going to try and squeak by with just that, but added a 2' section for the top to the order. This to make up for all the 1-1/2" overlaps and such. Came out perfect, used the extend a cap and gained another approx. 1-1/2' on the height of the chimney.
Installing by yourself def takes patience and some thinking & strength. That double wall got fairly heavy with each additional 4' section added on. I used the top clamp as a jig to hold the completed sections, while I lowered it down enough to re-clamp and install each next section. Still a PITA, but done.
Of course I only have flex the first 5', then double wall rigid the rest of the way. I was going to try and squeak by with just that, but added a 2' section for the top to the order. This to make up for all the 1-1/2" overlaps and such. Came out perfect, used the extend a cap and gained another approx. 1-1/2' on the height of the chimney.
Installing by yourself def takes patience and some thinking & strength. That double wall got fairly heavy with each additional 4' section added on. I used the top clamp as a jig to hold the completed sections, while I lowered it down enough to re-clamp and install each next section. Still a PITA, but done.
word about ovalizing, check your manufacture's listing. I think it voids the warranty and listing as well
Are we talking a slight bit say 6" to 5" is probably do able. 6" to 4"" is excessive
At that point ,you would be better buying an ovalized piece and the correct oval to round adapter
Or installing an oval liner all the way
Are we talking a slight bit say 6" to 5" is probably do able. 6" to 4"" is excessive
At that point ,you would be better buying an ovalized piece and the correct oval to round adapter
Or installing an oval liner all the way
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