Best Way to Make Protruding Bricks Flush with Hearth?

[cowtown]

give a bricker hammer and 4" brick chisel a try...you will be surprised how easily AND precisely it will cut those bricks......and if any of them do show, they will look more natural than a cutting tool will afford.....trust me I do a lot of natural stone masonry/veneer and with just a little practice you will be cuttin those bricks with a chisel and hammer like a pro....if you have access to some spare bricks you can practice outside on them...to get a feel for how to cut them...usually a couple of medium hits on each cut will do the trick.....keep us posted on how you make out!

thanks for this - yes many was to skin the cat here. I can actually practice on the top bricks as these will be 100% convered. It is the side bricks that might/might now be revealed. I will let everyone know how it goes (but again, Wed is the big day to see if I have the necessary clearances). I will be in mourning if I can't get the insert.

 

[ScotO]

thanks for this - yes many was to skin the cat here. I can actually practice on the top bricks as these will be 100% convered. It is the side bricks that might/might now be revealed. I will let everyone know how it goes (but again, Wed is the big day to see if I have the necessary clearances). I will be in mourning if I can't get the insert.

No problem, hey we'll keep our fingers crossed for ya...things will work out one way or another...keep thinkin positive!

 

[cowtown]

Okay - small update, but another guy came by to look at getting rid of the brick.

Quote $250-$300, this is what I was expecting.

I guess the question is now, to do it myself of spend $300 on it?

Part of me want to try it out, if I get into trouble I can alway call this guy in.

 

[jatoxico]

Okay - small update, but another guy came by to look at getting rid of the brick.

Quote $250-$300, this is what I was expecting.

I guess the question is now, to do it myself of spend $300 on it?

Part of me want to try it out, if I get into trouble I can alway call this guy in.

I say try one with your grout blade. Go at it from each side, you will get a 3/4 cut all around then knock it off. Then go after the nub. Do a bottom one first but I think it will go quick.

 

[cowtown]

Okay - small update, but another guy came by to look at getting rid of the brick.

Quote $250-$300, this is what I was expecting.

I guess the question is now, to do it myself of spend $300 on it?

Part of me want to try it out, if I get into trouble I can alway call this guy in.

I say try one with your grout blade. Go at it from each side, you will get a 3/4 cut all around then knock it off. Then go after the nub. Do a bottom one first but I think it will go quick.

Yup, this is exactly what I was thinking.

Question - why a bottom one first. I was thinking of going from the top so that the bricks below will provide resistance when I strick the brick ontop for a more controled cut.

 

[jatoxico]

Okay - small update, but another guy came by to look at getting rid of the brick.

Quote $250-$300, this is what I was expecting.

I guess the question is now, to do it myself of spend $300 on it?

Part of me want to try it out, if I get into trouble I can alway call this guy in.

I say try one with your grout blade. Go at it from each side, you will get a 3/4 cut all around then knock it off. Then go after the nub. Do a bottom one first but I think it will go quick.

Yup, this is exactly what I was thinking.

Question - why a bottom one first. I was thinking of going from the top so that the bricks below will provide resistance when I strick the brick ontop for a more controled cut.

Less noticeable than eye level if it doesn't go the way you think. You know, best laid plans... ;-)

 

[cowtown]

Okay - small update, but another guy came by to look at getting rid of the brick.

Quote $250-$300, this is what I was expecting.

I guess the question is now, to do it myself of spend $300 on it?

Part of me want to try it out, if I get into trouble I can alway call this guy in.

I say try one with your grout blade. Go at it from each side, you will get a 3/4 cut all around then knock it off. Then go after the nub. Do a bottom one first but I think it will go quick.

Yup, this is exactly what I was thinking.

Question - why a bottom one first. I was thinking of going from the top so that the bricks below will provide resistance when I strick the brick ontop for a more controled cut.

Less noticeable than eye level. You know best laid plans... ;-)

Good suggestion - I am going to work with ones going across the top first as these will be covered by the surround. The ones on the side should be covered as well. 42 1/2" is the measure of the surround, brick to brick that I am removing is 41 3/4", so should be covered.

 

[jatoxico]

Okay - small update, but another guy came by to look at getting rid of the brick.

Quote $250-$300, this is what I was expecting.

I guess the question is now, to do it myself of spend $300 on it?

Part of me want to try it out, if I get into trouble I can alway call this guy in.

I say try one with your grout blade. Go at it from each side, you will get a 3/4 cut all around then knock it off. Then go after the nub. Do a bottom one first but I think it will go quick.

Yup, this is exactly what I was thinking.

Question - why a bottom one first. I was thinking of going from the top so that the bricks below will provide resistance when I strick the brick ontop for a more controled cut.

Less noticeable than eye level. You know best laid plans... ;-)

Good suggestion - I am going to work with ones going across the top first as these will be covered by the surround. The ones on the side should be covered as well. 42 1/2" is the measure of the surround, brick to brick that I am removing is 41 3/4", so should be covered.

Your in good shape, have at it. You'll save yourself some bucks and probably do a better job than anyone you hire. Good luck and snap a pic to show how it went.

 

[cowtown]

Okay - small update, but another guy came by to look at getting rid of the brick.

Quote $250-$300, this is what I was expecting.

I guess the question is now, to do it myself of spend $300 on it?

Part of me want to try it out, if I get into trouble I can alway call this guy in.

I say try one with your grout blade. Go at it from each side, you will get a 3/4 cut all around then knock it off. Then go after the nub. Do a bottom one first but I think it will go quick.

Yup, this is exactly what I was thinking.

Question - why a bottom one first. I was thinking of going from the top so that the bricks below will provide resistance when I strick the brick ontop for a more controled cut.

Less noticeable than eye level. You know best laid plans... ;-)

Good suggestion - I am going to work with ones going across the top first as these will be covered by the surround. The ones on the side should be covered as well. 42 1/2" is the measure of the surround, brick to brick that I am removing is 41 3/4", so should be covered.

Your in good shape, have at it. You'll save yourself some bucks and probably do a better job than anyone you hire. Good luck and snap a pic to show how it went.

I will, first have to make sure the T5 fits (this Wed the installer is coming over) once I get this, I will start a new thread. I really don't mind spending the $300, but i am the type of person to try new things, and i think I can do this.

 

[mhrischuk]

There is a possibility of you knocking bricks totally out if you hit them the wrong way. Mortar doesn't stick as well as some think.

 

[cowtown]

There is a possibility of you knocking bricks totally out if you hit them the wrong way. Mortar doesn't stick as well as some think.

Yup, I know this, but the same goes for the mason who indicated the he will use a hammer and chisel. I think starting the cuts with a grout blade on me oscillating tool will help a lot.

 

[cowtown]

Well had the insert guy over tonight - he says everything is good to go. So I will start demo this weekend or next and start a new thread on it once I do.

But was so excited tonight that I took off the fireplace glass - it was then I realized that the fireplace opening is pretty big.

Thanks everyone for their help on this, I think I will attack it with an oscilatting tool + masonry dril bit + brick chisel + brick hammer + vacuum + drop cloth + prayers.

 

[cowtown]

Well had the insert guy over tonight - he says everything is good to go. So I will start demo this weekend or next and start a new thread on it once I do.

But was so excited tonight that I took off the fireplace glass - it was then I realized that the fireplace opening is pretty big.

Thanks everyone for their help on this, I think I will attack it with an oscilatting tool + masonry dril bit + brick chisel + brick hammer + vacuum + drop cloth + prayers.

Well tried one brick and failed - a bit gun shy, the mason is coming tomorrow, will gladly part with my $250-$300 to get this done. The brick beat me today.

 

[tickbitty]

Yikes, I guess I am a minority of one here, but I say DON'T cut the brick. Just leave it, it looks fine. If you need to have a surround around an insert, you can have an insert surround custom cut so it sits nicely on the protruding brick level. Or you can put an insert without a surround which actually can look quite nice and give the appearance of a nice (though legless) stove in the fireplace, It would work the same as having the surround and you won't have to permanently change your brickwork.

 

[begreen]

I'm not sure I follow why all this work to remove 2-3" of brick. Why? If the surround "just covers" the protruding brick, why not just have the surround fit to the edge of the protrusion? I may be missing an important detail here, but if it just takes trimming a 1/2" off the surround metal or even 3", that seems like it might be an easier approach.

 

[Yagminas Masonry and Wood-heat]

I would most definitely cut the metal surround to fit INSIDE the opening. It makes for a "clean" look.

 

[tickbitty]

LOL thanks BeGreen now I'm in a minority of two!

edit - and then there were three!

 

[tickbitty]

I would most definitely cut the metal surround to fit INSIDE the opening. It makes for a "clean" look.

That does look nice, here is a hearth guy that did just that

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/50201/P0/

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the pic tickbitty. Yes, there are alternatives here that need exploring before surgery.

 

[cowtown]

Thanks for the pic tickbitty. Yes, there are alternatives here that need exploring before surgery.

My hearth is only 16" from the face of the brick wall. I need all 16" to get the T5 insert in (according to the manual). Without the brick cut back, I am at 14". So even with the brick cut back I will still need a hearth extension on the floor.

 

[tickbitty]

So in that case the extension on the floor should give you all you need, you can get a hearth extender board for around 60$ or get something nicer that's a little more and matches your setup, and you can leave it permanently or remove it in the off season. Still seems like you don't need to permanently alter the bricks if you don't have to.
But it's your place and the result just has to be what you are after so hope it works out great for you! (post some pics when you're done!)

Edit:
Ohhhh, just realized the T5 insert has one of those fancy surrounds that is made to look kinda cast iron and as if it's part of the stove, which makes for a good looking setup. Do you buy the surround in addition to the stove or does it come with it? Because if it comes with it, I guess I can see it's not one you would want to cut. But it's a mighty good looking stove even without that surround, so if you can live without it you can probably custom cut a plain surround or you can skip it.

 

[cowtown]

[quote author="tickbitty" date="1317541607"]So in that case the extension on the floor should give you all you need, you can get a hearth extender board for around 60$ or get something nicer that's a little more and matches your setup, and you can leave it permanently or remove it in the off season. Still seems like you don't need to permanently alter the bricks if you don't have to.
But it's your place and the result just has to be what you are after so hope it works out great for you! (post some pics when you're done!)[/quote

Page 4 of the Alderlea T5 manual (at least the way I read it) suggests that i need 16" of hearth so I think I have to get rid of the brick (the installer also said this as well). I don't mind paying the $300, plus it will then be to code.

I will post pictures of the install - maybe even the guy working on the brick tomorrow.

Thanks for you message.

 

[cowtown]

So in that case the extension on the floor should give you all you need, you can get a hearth extender board for around 60$ or get something nicer that's a little more and matches your setup, and you can leave it permanently or remove it in the off season. Still seems like you don't need to permanently alter the bricks if you don't have to.
But it's your place and the result just has to be what you are after so hope it works out great for you! (post some pics when you're done!)[/quote

Page 4 of the Alderlea T5 manual (at least the way I read it) suggests that i need 16" of hearth so I think I have to get rid of the brick (the installer also said this as well). I don't mind paying the $300, plus it will then be to code.

I will post pictures of the install - maybe even the guy working on the brick tomorrow.

Thanks for you message.

Page 4 of the Alderlea T5 manual (at least the way I read it) suggests that i need 16†of hearth so I think I have to get rid of the brick (the installer also said this as well). I don’t mind paying the $300, plus it will then be to code.

I will post pictures of the install - maybe even the guy working on the brick tomorrow.

Thanks for you message.

 

[ddddddden]

Dan, while the mason is there, why not ask how much $ it would be to raise the mantel or replace with non-combustible? Then you could get that m0nster insert that you want!

 

[cowtown]

Dan, while the mason is there, why not ask how much $ it would be to raise the mantel or replace with non-combustible? Then you could get that m0nster insert that you want!

If I was single I would have done this aleady The wife is on board (after hours of me wearing her down) as long as there are minimal changes. Any work on the mantle would just cause issues.