BIG buck 28000

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weezer4117

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Dec 23, 2008
251
central In
Aside from the manual i am looking for any advice on installing/operating a big buck 28000. I just got the stove and i am going to be putting it in my living area (freestanding). basically i am looking for folks that have this stove and expierence opertaing it. any advice, tricks, or concerns would be appreciated. thanks WG
 
weezer4117 said:
Aside from the manual i am looking for any advice on installing/operating a big buck 28000. I just got the stove and i am going to be putting it in my living area (freestanding). basically i am looking for folks that have this stove and expierence opertaing it. any advice, tricks, or concerns would be appreciated. thanks WG


I have a newer buck 91 so I can't help you there but, This might help a bit http://www.buckstove.com/buckfiles/manuals/Buck Stove Model 26000, 27000 & 28000 Manual (Rev 05-1987).pdf
 
Just like any other big ole pre-EPA steel stove. Get it up to five hundred degrees and find the air setting that will hold it around five to six hundred degrees so you don't smoke up the neighborhood and crap up the chimney.
 
I have a 2800 used as an insert with a liner. The only smoke I get is on start up. When its not very cold I bring it up to 250-300 degrees (on the door temp gage) then reduce the air to 1/3 and reduce the damper to 1/3. Practice to get no smoke. Its an adjustment between dry wood, hot chimney and enough air.
On a cold night I load it up fully, leave the door cracked for 15min, then slowly work the intake sliding doors to fully shut. After shutting the intakes I pull the damper to the second to last setting for the night. You should have hot coals 5-6 hrs later depending on the wood used.
 
THEMAN said:
weezer4117 said:
Aside from the manual i am looking for any advice on installing/operating a big buck 28000. I just got the stove and i am going to be putting it in my living area (freestanding). basically i am looking for folks that have this stove and expierence opertaing it. any advice, tricks, or concerns would be appreciated. thanks WG


I have a newer buck 91 so I can't help you there but, This might help a bit http://www.buckstove.com/buckfiles/manuals/Buck Stove Model 26000, 27000 & 28000 Manual (Rev 05-1987).pdf

Wow what an idiot I just read were you state "Aside from the manual..." haha sorry about that.
 
THEMAN- i was going to highlight "ASIDE" but i appreciate that you tried. i will let you go this time!!!!!!!
Anyone else have anything on the BIG buck 28000???? i need more!!!!!
 
What more do you need? Ask away.
 
do you think i would be ok using a 6" calss a chimney? my current setup consist of 18' of selkirk chimney. i have an uncle that has a buck 27000 and he uses 6" in a pullbarn and he has no trouble with draft. anyone use a metal chimney with a buck 26,27,28000?
 
My liner is not insulated. My chimney is about 18' high. My draft is great although I have an interior masonry chimney. Will yours be interior or exterior.
 
gzecc said:
I have a 2800 used as an insert with a liner. The only smoke I get is on start up. When its not very cold I bring it up to 250-300 degrees (on the door temp gage) then reduce the air to 1/3 and reduce the damper to 1/3. Practice to get no smoke. Its an adjustment between dry wood, hot chimney and enough air.
On a cold night I load it up fully, leave the door cracked for 15 min, then slowly work the intake sliding doors to fully shut. After shutting the intakes I pull the damper to the second to last setting for the night. You should have hot coals 5-6 hrs later depending on the wood used.
I have had a 26000 for over 25 years and the above quote is about how I run my stove (as an insert). A lot depends on the stove/flue/house stack effect etc. You will have to experiment. I can tell you that my son has a 27000 and we recently connected it to a 6" SS liner. Initially he put it in and vented directly to his masonry chimney. After the first season and concern for the lack of direct connet, he lined it. Problem was that the clay tile would accept a max. of 6" SS liner. It drafts fine with the doors closed but it trys to smoke with the doors open to load. My SS liner is 7" on a small 26000 Buck and it does fine.
 
tfdchief said:
gzecc said:
I have a 2800 used as an insert with a liner. The only smoke I get is on start up. When its not very cold I bring it up to 250-300 degrees (on the door temp gage) then reduce the air to 1/3 and reduce the damper to 1/3. Practice to get no smoke. Its an adjustment between dry wood, hot chimney and enough air.
On a cold night I load it up fully, leave the door cracked for 15 min, then slowly work the intake sliding doors to fully shut. After shutting the intakes I pull the damper to the second to last setting for the night. You should have hot coals 5-6 hrs later depending on the wood used.
I have had a 26000 for over 25 years and the above quote is about how I run my stove (as an insert). A lot depends on the stove/flue/house stack effect etc. You will have to experiment. I can tell you that my son has a 27000 and we recently connected it to a 6" SS liner. Initially he put it in and vented directly to his masonry chimney. After the first season and concern for the lack of direct connet, he lined it. Problem was that the clay tile would accept a max. of 6" SS liner. It drafts fine with the doors closed but it trys to smoke with the doors open to load. My SS liner is 7" on a small 26000 Buck and it does fine.

it is an interior chimney

tfdchief- does your son crack the door for a bit before opening all the way? the stove i have now will do that if you dont crack the door before opening. i think i will be ok with 6", the stove manual doesnt really specify an exact size all it really says is it is tested with 8" pipe. if anyone disagree/agrees please chime in
 
weezer4117 said:
tfdchief- does your son crack the door for a bit before opening all the way? the stove i have now will do that if you dont crack the door before opening. i think i will be ok with 6", the stove manual doesnt really specify an exact size all it really says is it is tested with 8" pipe. if anyone disagree/agrees please chime in

Does every Buck stove do this? I have a buck 91 and I too have to open the door for a few sec's then open it slowly. I was telling my friend about this and he said his parents had a buck stove and they had to do the same thing otherwise it would smoke. I have a really well insulated and sealed home so I actually open a house door to the outside before I even attempt to open the stove door, otherwise smoke alarm time haha.
 
I assumed you had to do that with all stove's that are installed in well insulated rooms.
 
weezer4117 said:
tfdchief said:
gzecc said:
I have a 2800 used as an insert with a liner. The only smoke I get is on start up. When its not very cold I bring it up to 250-300 degrees (on the door temp gage) then reduce the air to 1/3 and reduce the damper to 1/3. Practice to get no smoke. Its an adjustment between dry wood, hot chimney and enough air.
On a cold night I load it up fully, leave the door cracked for 15 min, then slowly work the intake sliding doors to fully shut. After shutting the intakes I pull the damper to the second to last setting for the night. You should have hot coals 5-6 hrs later depending on the wood used.
I have had a 26000 for over 25 years and the above quote is about how I run my stove (as an insert). A lot depends on the stove/flue/house stack effect etc. You will have to experiment. I can tell you that my son has a 27000 and we recently connected it to a 6" SS liner. Initially he put it in and vented directly to his masonry chimney. After the first season and concern for the lack of direct connet, he lined it. Problem was that the clay tile would accept a max. of 6" SS liner. It drafts fine with the doors closed but it trys to smoke with the doors open to load. My SS liner is 7" on a small 26000 Buck and it does fine.

it is an interior chimney

tfdchief- does your son crack the door for a bit before opening all the way? the stove i have now will do that if you dont crack the door before opening. i think i will be ok with 6", the stove manual doesnt really specify an exact size all it really says is it is tested with 8" pipe. if anyone disagree/agrees please chime in
That helps but it still trys to smoke sometimes. However, it has not been very cold here since we installed the liner, so I think it will be better when it gets cold. The stack for a buck, whether the small medium or large 28000, is 8" so whether they just didn't test smaller or they have to have an 8" or not, I don't know. I just know so far he does have some trouble with smoke when loading. Again, my 26000 on a 7" SS liner is fine.
 
THEMAN said:
weezer4117 said:
tfdchief- does your son crack the door for a bit before opening all the way? the stove i have now will do that if you dont crack the door before opening. i think i will be ok with 6", the stove manual doesnt really specify an exact size all it really says is it is tested with 8" pipe. if anyone disagree/agrees please chime in

Does every Buck stove do this? I have a buck 91 and I too have to open the door for a few sec's then open it slowly. I was telling my friend about this and he said his parents had a buck stove and they had to do the same thing otherwise it would smoke. I have a really well insulated and sealed home so I actually open a house door to the outside before I even attempt to open the stove door, otherwise smoke alarm time haha.

Are you opening the bypass damper and waiting a couple of seconds before opening the door? The only time I've ever gotten any smoke from the Buck 91 is when I forget to open the bypass before opening the door. Never try to open the door with the cat engaged.
 
My 27000 is run with an 8" single wall, 14' in masonry chimney. Never had any problems with draft, and like most stoves, shoulder seasons give a bit of trouble with smoke when it's humid out. I tend to run mine hotter than what I'm seeing here from other people. These stoves are built like tanks. My fiance overfired it the other day when she fell asleep in the recliner with a full load and open draft. 80 lbs of hardwood gone in 1 1/2 hrs, and the wooden handles on the doors burned right off. The Rutland thermometor had long since fallen off the door, and it still was reading past 800. I could hardly get near the thing. My guess was the firebox probably got upwards of 1800-2000 degrees, and it still runs fine. Close inspection the next day showed no damage. I was amazed. These stoves have some quirks to them, which is what makes them interesting to run, if not dangerous!
 
Southland said:
THEMAN said:
weezer4117 said:
tfdchief- does your son crack the door for a bit before opening all the way? the stove i have now will do that if you dont crack the door before opening. i think i will be ok with 6", the stove manual doesnt really specify an exact size all it really says is it is tested with 8" pipe. if anyone disagree/agrees please chime in

Does every Buck stove do this? I have a buck 91 and I too have to open the door for a few sec's then open it slowly. I was telling my friend about this and he said his parents had a buck stove and they had to do the same thing otherwise it would smoke. I have a really well insulated and sealed home so I actually open a house door to the outside before I even attempt to open the stove door, otherwise smoke alarm time haha.

Are you opening the bypass damper and waiting a couple of seconds before opening the door? The only time I've ever gotten any smoke from the Buck 91 is when I forget to open the bypass before opening the door. Never try to open the door with the cat engaged.

I only have a direct connect so I'm sure that has a lot to do with it. This stove is new to me as is burning a stove period. So the learning curve was pretty steep. Thanks to all here that allowed for plenty of information to learn from. When I first set up the stove I set off the alarm around 4 times and then after a week or so only did it a couple of other time when I forgot to open the damper first. Now I open the damper crack the door open a bit and leave it that way for a few seconds while I put on my gloves then open the door slowly. If I open the door too quick some smoke escapes.

brooktrout said:
These stoves have some quirks to them, which is what makes them interesting to run, if not dangerous!

What do you mean by that, what makes them dangerous? I agree these stoves are made like tanks. Super strong, and heavy. I love mine! Even with only a direct connect I have no problem starting or keeping it lit and putting out a ton of heat. It doesn't use up much wood to put out the heat either. I have not turned on our central heat all winter nor do I expect to. I'm actually looking forward to this spring/summer when I can go up to the sierras and forage for more wood. (You know your a wood burn when...)haha
 
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