BioBricks for Break In Fire?

[SteveT]

I want to break in my newly installed Hearthstone Clydesdale over the next few days if we get cool weather. I am thinking of using Biobricks instead of kindling/cordwood for the series of break in fires. First fire, one brick cut into several pieces, second fire two bricks, etc.

I know the bricks burn very hot but with such small loads I can't envision this being risky. Anyone think this isn't a reasonable approach? Thanks.

 

[begreen]

Considering this is a new stove under warranty, I'd follow the manual. All they are calling for is a kindling fire that gets the stove warm, not hot. Note that you'll have to do this again in the fall if the stove sits idle for a few months.

 

[Corie]

Hrmmm, I have to tell you I probably wouldn't do it BUT I've never burned the biobricks before so I can't comment specifically on them. I've burned some other compressed logs though, and found that their combustion rate was too difficult to modulate to be used for break in fires where careful fire temperature is necessary.

 

[stoveguy13]

Bio bricks can void the warranty on some stoves.

 

[SteveT]

Well, I'm convinced to not use the Bio's for the break-in and thank each of you for the comments.

I don't think that using them - cautiously - should void the warranty but you all point out that there is some risk and it is easier to avoid that risk. Longer term (after the break-in) I will be using them. By then I'll be familiar with the stove and the Bio's and won't be concerned about overfiring (which would clearly void the warranty).

 

[SteveT]

..... All they are calling for is a kindling fire that gets the stove warm, not hot.

This sounds pretty straightforward but in practice is still a judgement call. I decided that "hot" would mean you couldn't hold your hand on it and "warm" was that it would be uncomfortable to hold you hand on it for more than a few seconds. Seems easy enough. But when I reached warm on the top of the insert the sides were barely above room temperature. So I decided to make the call based on the temperature at the top rather than push it. Worst case it will take a few more firings to work the temperature up.

How have you more experienced guys handled this?

 

[begreen]

Incrementally warmer fires using a thermometer as a guide.

 

[SteveT]

Incrementally warmer fires using a thermometer as a guide.

Looking for what kind of temps?

Something like 200 then 300 then 400 then "done"?

Measured at the highest temp area (top of insert) or the sides?

This is probably belaboring a fairly minor detail (after all, any reasonable approach shouldn't be detrimental to a robust, high quality insert). But having just spent over $4,000 for my money-saving machine, I'd hate to do ANYTHING to diminish the performance and life of the insert.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Good thing you asked- cutting up a biobrick would expose more surface area and likely make it burn HOTTER than if left in one piece anyway!

 

[SteveT]

Good thing you asked- cutting up a biobrick would expose more surface area and likely make it burn HOTTER than if left in one piece anyway!

Yea, I thought of that. But bear in mind that a Biobrick only contains 17,000 BTU's; probably around 12,000 BTU's of output.

The Clydesdale is rated at 60,000 BTU/hr output and has a very large firebox. If a broken up brick burned for an hour you'd be a 20% capacity; even if you somehow had it 100% consumed in 1/2 hour (very unlikely IMO) you'd be at 40% of "broken in" capacity. Either case pretty conservative.

What I actually did was follow the advise here and go totally by the book. Ten pieces of dry kindling go a lot faster/hotter than single Biobrick (I burned one outside on my charcoal grill just to observe).

 

[begreen]

Incrementally warmer fires using a thermometer as a guide.

Looking for what kind of temps?

Something like 200 then 300 then 400 then "done"?

Measured at the highest temp area (top of insert) or the sides?

This is probably belaboring a fairly minor detail (after all, any reasonable approach shouldn't be detrimental to a robust, high quality insert). But having just spent over $4,000 for my money-saving machine, I'd hate to do ANYTHING to diminish the performance and life of the insert.

Hearthstone just recommends the single fire for your stove so you should be good to go. But if you want to err on the side of caution, your plan sounds fine to me. Use a thermometer on the top. I don't own a soapstone stove, but I believe what you are trying to do is to force any atmospheric moisture out of the stone. Fast heating could potentially crack one. Slow heating will cause it to sweat itself dry.