BK flue not to code

[Murray01]

If I posted in the wrong forum please move. I chose the BK forum only because it’s a 7” flue that initiated these unplanned renovations.

Insurance company wants a WETT Inspection, initially I thought no problem just replace the old beat up flue and chimney. Started digging into the owner/installation manual plus had a conversation(phone) with the WETT inspector. As I was explaining my setup to the inspector as soon as I got to the 7” to 6” flue reducer he stated that I just failed the WETT inspection. He then asked what manufacturer made the flue, Class A chimney and ceiling support, I couldn’t answer. If they ALL aren’t made by the same manufacturer then installation will fail. What I have to do is 7” single wall flue will be replaced with 7” double walled, ceiling support for 6” Class A will be replaced with a 7” ceiling support and the 6” Class A chimney will be replaced with 7” Class A chimney. Funny how what I thought would be a small job turns into a complete replacement of all components. We have a contractor tentatively coming out Sunday to have a look at the job. Due to the nature of the original installation plus a bedroom addition many years ago this is the time to move the stove to simplify the roof exit away from the valley.

Below is the current noncompliant set up. Ideally we would like to keep the stove where it is but on the next picture you’ll see how it interferes with the valley. I’ve done lots of work to stop the leaking roof but haven’t been able to stop all the water ingress 100% of the time.



Picture below is the current install.


Left of the valley is the master bedroom(2002), right of the valley is the main cabin(mid 1970)

All the renovations/additions were done by Grampa over the years, handy guy with tool, self taught carpenter.

We have a few options and this is where I’m hoping forum members can offer suggestions/criticisms.

Option 1: Leave the stove where it is and hopefully find a roof flashing with a smaller footprint. One concern is with a 7” chimney going thru 2 roof lines will likely cause clearance issues and trigger major work with roof trusses.

Option 2: Move the stove where the black chair is sitting and bring the chimney straight up avoiding the valley.

Option 3: Move the stove where the black chair is sitting and sacrifice the window to exit the stove out the window and up thru the eves.

Thank you for reading this long winded post.

 

[EbS-P]

Option 4??? Can you use 45 degree offsets to move the roof exit to a single pitch?

 

[gthomas785]

Yeah you could really just offset it higher up the roof (same rafter/truss bay) and you'd avoid the valley. Class A chimney can have either 30 or 60 degree elbows.

 

[GG Woody]

There is a ton to unpack on this one...
I wouldn't want a 7" chimney with most stove outlets being 6", especially if the WETT guy doesn't like reducers. I bet he doesn't like increasers either, at a later date when someone tries to connect a 6" stove to the 7"
The way you worded it, it sounds like the WETT inspector wants to fail you? Find one that wants to pass you?
I didn't think that the chimney connector manufacturer needed to match the chimney/thimble manufacturer. I'm not sure if that is what you thought in your post.
I agree, offset it in the attic.

 

[begreen]

Yeah you could really just offset it higher up the roof (same rafter/truss bay) and you'd avoid the valley. Class A chimney can have either 30 or 60 degree elbows.

Class A can have either 15 or 30º elbows, but I don't see the offset being in the class A chimney pipe. It would be in the stove pipe instead, no?

I wouldn't want a 7" chimney with most stove outlets being 6", especially if the WETT guy doesn't like reducers. I bet he doesn't like increasers either, at a later date when someone tries to connect a 6" stove to the 7"

Agreed. If this is a redo, do it in less expensive and compliant 6". Also, don't use a rubber or silicone flex flashing. Use a stainless flashing meant for metal roofs.